Miles and His Merlot Madness

Sideways is long gone from theatres but the scenic romp through Santa Barbara wine country in search of the perfect pinot noir has left the merlot grape in limbo. The culprit is a hilarious exchange between Miles, the newly divorced wine snob played by Paul Giamatti, and his old college buddy and washed-up actor Jack (Thomas Haden Church).

The scene, set just outside the Hitching Post restaurant in Buellton, Calif., has Jack, desperate to impress their waiting dates, instructing Miles, "If they want to drink merlot, we're drinking merlot."

Miles now famous reply is "No, if anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f----g merlot!"

It was quote heard round the wine world and one that has given merlot, still the largest-selling red variety, a real image problem. The challenge is a sea of uninspired, soft red wine that meets only one key requirement: you can drink it -- now.

As I said, it has me thinking about merlot and, to kick off what will amount to several weeks of holiday wine buying guides, I've decide to find some decent merlot you could sink your teeth into.

Today I present six to place on your radar. In a sea of mediocrity, these wines deliver far more then you might expect for the price. And, as Jack would say, "it tastes good to me."

Chile is perfectly positioned to grow merlot but all too often it comes with too much of a minty, herbaceous character. That is not the case with the latest Errazuriz Merlot Curico 2004. Expect a sappy, cherry, savoury nose with enticing vanilla undertones. The entry is soft and round, the textures supple and the fruit full of cherry, plum, olive and peppery mint flavours. There's still some youthful tannins on the finish but with fine ripeness and concentration. Great value.

Locally, I like the current vintages of Mission Hill Five Vineyards Merlot 2003. This wine has improved in leaps and bounds. Look for a smoky, resiny vanilla, black olive nose streaked with cherry, spice and saddle leather aromas. It is still a bit dry and tannic (this will pass) but there is enough cedar, chocolate, prune plum, flavours to attract the diner. A solid effort.

The Fat Bastard Merlot 2003 from the south of France isn't quite as fat as its name might suggest but you should be attracted to its black cherry jam nose and juniper/barnyard aromas. Typically round and chunky, the flavours mix pepper, spice, vanilla, tobacco leaf, black cherry and orange rind flavours. It's a drier style that requires food to best disperse its tannins.

The five-year-old Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot 2000 is simply a bargain. Smoke, vanilla, tobacco and black plum jam aromas and flavours make this an inviting Northwest wine. Smooth sleek and tasty and available at a price few can match for quality.

Year in and year out Sonoma merlot impresses and the Rodney Strong Merlot 2001 is just the latest example. The styling is soft and round but there is some elegance, too. The flavours mix black cherry, vanilla, smoky, chocolate, cedar and mint. A touch dry but attractive for current drinking. Good value.

I'm guessing Miles never made it to Washington wine country otherwise, he would have toned down his merlot tirade. My last pick is for Miles and merlot freaks. L'Ecole No 41 Merlot 2002 is made from a blend of vineyards from Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain and Yakima Valley. There are small amounts of Seven Hills Vineyard cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and, amazingly, a touch of carmenère. The nose is very hedonistic. Look for ripe cherries and cream with an allspice undertone. After that, black plums and black raspberries dominate with just enough juicy cranberry fruit to keep the finish interesting. This is delicious.

Mmmm Merlot

Errazuriz Merlot Curicó 2004, Valle del Curicó, Chile

Price: $13.70

UPC: 089046900994

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fine ripeness and concentration. Great value for merlot.

Mission Hill Merlot Five Vineyards 2003, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Price: $16.99

UPC: 776545985156

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Cedar, chocolate, prune plum, vanilla flavours, and affordable.

Fat Bastard Merlot 2003, Languedoc, South of France

Price: $16.95

UPC: 37000678002346

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Peppery, spicy, black cherry and orange rind flavours.

Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot 2000, Columbia Valley, Washington

Price: $16.99

UPC: 088586001109

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Black plum jam, licorice, smoky vanilla flavours. Excellent value.

Rodney Strong Merlot 2001, Sonoma County, California

Price: $26.99

UPC: 087512073395

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Soft and round with black cherry fruit that is ready to drink.

L'Ecole No 41 Merlot 2002, Columbia Valley, Washington

Price: 52.95

UPC: 721354890030

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Black plums, black raspberries and juicy cranberry fruit.