Mighty Malbec

Think about it. Italy and barbecue, not really; France and charcoal grilled beef, no way. Spain, I believe, has more outdoor ovens than barbecues. German barbecues -- who has ever been to one? No, when it comes to barbecue I believe Australia, Argentina, South Africa and North America are the countries with the most backyard chefs.

Today we further refine our search and settle on one country, Argentina and one varietal wine, malbec.

Interest in Argentine malbec is at an all-time high, so much so that it is approaching a new modern-day danger point in the wine business. That's when a wine becomes so popular MBAs on Wall Street or Fleet Street think a beer company should start buying wineries.

Hopefully malbec can be spared such "globality," a term used in a May 18, 1998 Newsweek article by author Daniel Yergin. Yergin suggests "if 'globalization' has been the mantra for the expansion of international trade and foreign investment and the integration of markets, now we are beginning to see a reality beyond globalization--the world of 'globality.' This is not so much a process as a condition, a world economy in which traditional and familiar boundaries are being surmounted or made irrelevant."

Hmmm, do the words shiraz wine come to mind?

Okay back to malbec and barbecues. The Argentines are the master of asado, explained clearly in Wikipedia as "a technique for cooking cuts of meat, usually consisting of beef alongside various other meats which are cooked on a grill (parrilla) or open fire." For some reason the smoke and char of the fire works perfectly with the unmarinated, salted-only, grilled meat and the savoury licorice, black fruit theme of malbec.

Today we look at some impressive malbec wines, especially given the price-quality ratio, although I suspect these prices, like most others for wine, will begin to rise as the many fuel surcharges kick in over summer. Don't forget under the ad valorem liquor tax system that any increase in the landed cost of wine is subsequently marked up 117 per cent followed by another 10 per cent (liquor) PST and 5 per cent GST.

The current Finca Flichman Malbec Oak Aged 2007 may be the best of recent vintages for this earthy, smoky red. Look for plenty of soft, smooth-edged peppery fruit with bits of liquorice. This is good-value red wine you can serve liberally around the barbecue or with pizza, chicken or spaghetti.

Bodegas Escorihuela Gascon are the folks behind Circus Malbec 2006, another round supple inexpensive savoury Argentine malbec. The fruit flavours are dark along the blackberry, black plum line with plenty of licorice and a hint of tar. Classic steak wine or just about anything grilled. Warm finish. Good value.

Perhaps a bit more classic is the Los Cardos Malbec 2006, with its typically pepper nose and sweet mocha-chocolate, leather, and black fruit flavours. On the palate it comes up drier and firmer than you might expect with more smoky leather, chocolate cherry, roasted mushroom notes and the customary savoury thread. Should be just fine served with most grilled meats and/or poultry.

LoTengo Malbec 2006, complete with the interactive label that has a dancing couple thrusting a la tango, consistently offers up slightly darker fruit aromas and flavours mixing smoke and bacon with plums, black cherry and light savoury licorice elements. There is solid quality here for the price in what is a rustic but pleasant malbec.

Salta is home to some very famous high-altitude malbec, but you won't have to pay much for the Quara Malbec 2006 that hails from the Calchaqui Valley. This is round peppery malbec with a bit of that elevated acidity we see in many Australian reds. The mid-palate is fresh and peppery with more licorice and black fruit in the finish. Simple straight-up malbec that is best served with, you guessed it: something grilled. Exclusive to Everything Wines.

If you are looking for the big, home-run red with power, alcohol, weight and, yes, still some finesse, reach for the Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva 2004 of the famed Luján de Cuyo district. This wine is rich in black cherry, plum and spicy, coriander aromas and flavours with a smooth textured entry and good acidity. The finish is long-flecked with savoury tobacco flavours and a touch of licorice and orange. Nice styling and intensity.

FINCA FLICHMAN MALBEC OAK AGED 2007, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $10.99

UPC: 7790470080222

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Serve liberally around pizza, chicken or spaghetti.

CIRCUS MALBEC 2006, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $13, private wine stores

UPC: 07790415129047

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Black plum line with plenty of licorice and a hint of tar.

LOS CARDOS MALBEC 2006, UGARTECHE DISTRICT, LUJAN DE CUYO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $15

UPC: 00836950000018

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Smoky leather, chocolate cherry and roasted mushroom notes.

LOTENGO MALBEC 2006, LUJAN DE CUYP, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $14

UPC: 07792319676269

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Solid quality in a rustic red.

QUARA MALBEC 2006, CAFAYATE, CALCHAQUI VALLEY, SALTA, ARGENTINA

Price: $13, Everything Wine

UPC: 021893794692

Score: 85/100

Remarks: Simple, straight-up malbec at a fair price.

LUIGI BOSCA MALBEC RESERVA 2004, LUJAN DE CUYO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $23.00

UPC: 7791203001231

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Black cherry, peppery, savoury tobacco flavours with a touch of licorice.