Mid-Winter Releases

In a troubled continent it seemed at least for a few moments that all of Africa shared the hope that America's new president could somehow change their lives too.

Only time will answer that question, but I noted that for the first time in more than a decade it didn't seem so necessary to seek the relative safety of travelling as a "Canadian" and not to be mistaken for an American tourist.

I will report further on the business of South African wine in the coming weeks, but suffice to say I was more than pleasantly surprised by the current state of winemaking throughout the Cape and as usual wonder why so many good wines have failed to make their way to the Canadian market.

In the meantime "Featured New Wines" are the story this week and, as is the custom, you will find them featured in special end-of-aisle displays in B.C. Liquor Stores. Not every store is involved in the New Releases program, but those with extensive wine selections are usually prime candidates.

In any event you can check out the current listings at http://www.bcliquorstores.com/en/instorepromotions/npip and simply click on the individual wine names to find out which stores stock the wine. The ability to search for any wine in the system and then locate which stores actually have the bottles on the shelf is now the only way to shop.

As is the norm, these new-to-B.C.-Liquor-Store selections are available for two months, after which time their listing status is re-evaluated; those showing strong sales go into mass distribution; those that flounder are de-listed.

One of the five wines (La Mano) was corked and when I tried to purchase another bottle it was sold out at my store, so I will review it later. In the meantime I have added two personal picks at the end of the column that are simply good value.

Michel Torino Cuma Organic Torrontés 2008 hails from Cafayate in the high altitude Calchaqui Valley. Cuma means "clean and pure" in the language of the Aymara the pre-Incan inhabitants of Cafayate and other highly elevated plains in Argentina. Both viticulture and winemaking at Cuma meet certified organic guidelines. It's hard not to be impressed with the overpowering florals that mark the nose of this exotic varietal. Roses, jasmine, nectarine skins: all assault the senses as does the orange, green peach and oily fruit. Young bright and aromatic it seems to shout bring on the spicy dishes or roasted birds. Good value.

Its bookend organic listing in red is the Michel Torino Cuma Organic Malbec 2008. This savoury-scented red boasts tobacco leaf, pepper, celery salt, and dried herb notes. It is fresh and supple on the palate with plum and cherry fruit flecked with poultry spice, mushroom and cool herbal flavours. A solid "food" wine, for the money, but it definitely needs a bit of protein to smooth out the edges.

Languedoc, France is the home of the Sainte-Croix Syrah/Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc 2006. Look for peppery, cooked raspberry, cinnamon and roasted meat aromas. Light tannins and a soft mid-palate preview fine raspberry jam, pepper, clove, cinnamon, licorice root and vanilla flavours. It's alcoholic but with finesse. An affordable, good value red for simple mid-winter meals.

It hard not to like the Graham Beck Shiraz Viognier 2006. The shiraz and viognier are co-fermented to heighten the spice and floral notes in the front end, in essence making it a bit more approachable. The nose is a mix of smoked meat and white pepper with a barnyard, savoury undercurrent. On the palate, it's warm and its smoky, meaty fruit is flecked with licorice, violets and dried fruit flavours. Ageing takes place in a combination of 30 per cent new French and American oak barrels for 13 months. It was also highly rated at the 2008 Wine Access International Value Wine Awards.

As mentioned the final two selections are not "New Releases," so look for these labels in their respective country categories in stores. There are plenty of grapefruit, gooseberry, lime and green passion fruit aromas in the Viña Chocalán Sauvignon Blanc 2008. It is crisp on entry with grapefruit rind, passion fruit sorbet, gooseberry and smoky apple flavours. Look for fine citrus intensity and balance in a slightly one dimensional package. Good value.

The Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006 has an enticing licorice, floral, cherry, meaty nose flecked with pepper and saddle leather. The entry is supple, the texture full-bodied with good acidity. Look for bright cherry, plum fruit with more spicy, licorice, rooty, smoky, meaty, peppery flavours. It has a fine, solid fruit core and good intensity. Rustic but should be fine with food. Good value in a simple Italian red.

Michel Torino Cuma Organic Torrontés 2008, Cafayate, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina

Price $12

UPC 7790189040074

Score 87/100

Remarks Roses, jasmine and nectarine skins assault the senses.

Michel Torino Cuma Organic Malbec 2008, Cafayate, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina

Price $12

UPC 7790189040142

Score 85/100

Remarks Fresh, supple, round plum and cherry fruit.

Sainte - Croix Syrah - Merlot Vin de Pays d'Oc 2006, Languedoc, France

Price $13

UPC 003362872392315

Score 87/100

Remarks An affordable, good value food wine.

Graham Beck Shiraz - Viognier 2006, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price $15

UPC 006004867000917

Score 88/100

Remarks Smoky, resin, peppery, sausage meat mixed with ripe fruit.

Viña Chocalán Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $13

UPC 007804603660752

Score 86/100

Remarks Passion fruit sorbet in a glass. Good value.

Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006, Abruzzo, Italy

Price $15

UPC 181856000335

Score 87/100

Remarks Bright cherry, plum and spicy, licorice flavour.