Merlot to Go

In a now infamous scene (infamous at least among merlot grape growers), Miles chastises his old college buddy and washed-up actor Jack (Thomas Haden Church), stating that should he, or any of their guests, order merlot at dinner, Miles would leave the restaurant immediately.

Given Miles's predilection for so-called "complex" wines such as pinot noir, most merlot, particularly cheap California merlot, was summarily dismissed in the movie. For a period of time, at least in the United States, merlot suffered in wine shops.

Miles was referring to the sea of merlot on store shelves that was wet and red, but not much else. The fact is, the soft tannins and round mouthfeel of merlot have always made it more attractive as an introductory red wine, thus attracting a large number of producers looking to make a fast buck and inevitably growing and making merlot of no particular pedigree.

Historically, the best efforts have come from Bordeaux's St. Émilion and Pomerol regions, although today's prices make most of these iconic wines little more than trophies that are bought and sold at auction with very little drinking in between.

Modern-day merlot, at least the stuff that gets drunk, is more likely to come out of Sonoma, Calif., the Maipo Valley of Chile or, as I have seen repeatedly this year, Washington and British Columbia, with the latter two regions showing a great deal of promise.

There is something about Pacific Northwest merlot that is above the norm. The fruit is rich and, for the most part, now ripe. The tannins are mostly fine-grained at the top end and the flavours come with a supercharged, savoury, spiced thread and just enough acidity to keep it lively on the palate.

Maybe it's just a coming of age of both the vine and winemakers, but be sure to add Pacific Northwest merlot to your growing list of "origin-linked" varietals and blends. I'm not sure that British Columbia merlot has the potential to become as popular as New Zealand sauvignon blanc or Napa cabernet sauvignon, but you never know when your focus is quality, not quantity. It doesn't mean we shouldn't pursue syrah or pinot gris with similar gusto, but merlot, made seriously, should not be overlooked.

Of course, a small movie set in the Okanagan starring Brad Pitt or Cate Blanchett sipping B.C. merlot would certainly move matters along quicker than any wine column. While we await the invasion from Hollywood, here are six merlots to explore with barbecued chicken or meat this weekend.

The Santa Rita Merlot Reserva 2006 is all Maipo with its bay leaf and dried herbs on the nose. On the palate, there are hints of ripe, almost sweet fruit flavours followed by leafy olive, tobacco, vanilla and chocolate, earthy flavours. Best with grilled meats to tame its savoury minty aftertaste.

Winemaker Bill Dyer is beginning to make his mark at Church & State with this rendition of the Merlot Coyote Bowl 2006. The nose is an interesting mix of orange peel, leather coffee and spicy tobacco leaf with a firm of sweet oak. On the palate, coffee and earth flavours mix with bits of ripe berries and chocolate that finish soft and smooth. Warm and youthful, it stills needs some time to settle down. Serve now with roast meats or fowl.

Randy Picton is dialling his merlot down to a fine point as exemplified by the Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Merlot 2005 and its rich smoky, coffee oak nose splattered with cherries and spicy, black olive aromas. This wine is getting better in the bottle as its texture begins to smooth out and fatten up. Look for smoky, coffee, vanilla, licorice and black cherry flavours with a savoury Christmas cake finish.

At Road 13, Michael Bartier is pushing the smoky, vanilla, cherry, minty, cedar style of merlot with quite a peppery edge. His Merlot 2006 has a dry, round, supple palate with light, small-grained tannin. Similar flavours of cherry and menthol mark the palate along with a mineral, stony finish. This is a fine effort that will repay two to four years in the cellar.

Not to be outdone, Tom Di Bello has hit a home run with his CedarCreek Classic Series Merlot 2006. It's full-bodied and accessible; look for spicy fruit pudding with vanilla and black cherries. It's Bordeaux with fruit, cedar, pencil lead and a firm, dry, ripe finish. Delicious, well-made merlot.

Finally, the Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Indian Wells Vineyard 2003 should be on your radar. The Washington wine category has been so mismanaged (on both sides of the border) that you forget how good some of these merlots can be. Indian Wells has a wonderful concentration of fruit and spice all wrapped up in an elegant Northwest package streaked with mint and sage -- definitely more Euro-style with that early and mid-palate leanness that attracts. This will improve with a few extra years in the cellar. It's better than anything from Bordeaux at this price and well above it.

Price: $17

UPC: 089419366921

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Bay leaves and dried herbs with vanilla and dark cherries.

CHURCH & STATE MERLOT COYOTE BOWL 2006, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price: $35 winery direct; VQA and private wine shops

UPC: 840098126100

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Mocha berry coffee tobacco earth flavours with a big round soft finish.

NK'MIP CELLARS QWAM QWMT MERLOT 2005, OSOYOOS, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price: $25 winery direct; VQA and private wine shops

UPC: 836909011423

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fatter style with supple tannins, liquorice black cherry and Christmas cake flavours.

ROAD 13 MERLOT 2006, OKANAGAN VALLEY,

British Columbia

Price: $24 $35 winery direct; VQA and private wine shops

UPC: 626990081265

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Round, supple palate with peppery, smoky cherry, vanilla, flavours.

CEDARCREEK CLASSIC SERIES MERLOT 2006, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price: $20

UPC: 7789130365538

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Bordeaux with fruit, cedar, pencil lead and a firm, dry, ripe finish.

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE MERLOT INDIAN WELLS VINEYARD 2003, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON

Price: $30-$35 private wine shops; restaurants

UPC: 088586607912

Score: 91/100

Remarks: More Euro-style with a mid-palate leanness and rich fruit finish.