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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

SPARKLING   86 Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2006 Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBC $0.00 winery onlyLight biscuit, toasty, green apple skin, mineral aromas.

May 18/09 - Top Import Wine Picks in Canada

SPARKLING

 

86 Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2006
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $0.00 winery only
Light biscuit, toasty, green apple skin, mineral aromas. Crisp, fresh, dry, tart palate with light but fine mousse. More green apple skin mixed with nutty, honey, herbal, grapefruit rind flavours mark the palate. An interesting first effort but on the austere, tight and dry style. Best with food. (AG-ST)

 


WHITE

 

88 Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon 2007
Gascony, France
BC $15.00 specialty listing
The Grassa family reputation was built on Armagnac, still made today, but this sauvignon is far more interesting. Under screwcap this is a recession-proof bottle at $15 that is as fresh as it gets. The nose is a mix of bright 'sauvignon' fruits - kiwi, passion fruit, lemons and limes with a floral, mineral, notes and crisp acidity. From oysters to curries and almost anything in between enjoy this delicious white. (AG-ST)

88 The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2008
Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa
BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $17.00 private order
Old bush vines in the Helderberg area of Stellenbosch are responsible for this delightfully fresh and juicy chenin. Mineral based, decomposed granite soils are the secret here. No wood but lees stirring keeps it all interesting. If pears, limes and bright acidity appeal to you for summer this is the wine to drink. (AG-ST)

87 Arrogant Frog Ribet White Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $14.00 specialty listing, ON $13.00 consignment - The Yorkville Wine Company, QC $14.00
Another solid effort from the Paul Mas folks. Crisp, aromatic mineral, citrus, grassy notes mark the nose with bits of nettle and grass and passion fruit. Pure and fresh with crunchy citrus fruit and a touch of lime rind make it perfect with West Coasty Kushi or Kumamotos oysters. Excellent summer value under screwcap. (AG-ST)

87 Columbia Crest Chardonnay Grand Estates 2007
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
US $12.00 srp
The style of most American chardonnays continues to lag behind the current trend to the brighter, fresher style. Columbia Crest falls into this oaky, richer style because it still sells well. Look for a rich open nose of toasted oak and vanilla with creamy buttery fruit, flecked with honey and ripe mango in the finish. It's fairly well balanced and that adds to its appeal. (AG-ST)

87 Deinhard Riesling Classic 2007
Rheinhessen, Germany
BC $13.00 specialty listing, NS $11.00
Take a great vintage, add a well made wine and sell it for next to nothing and you have a bargain. Check out the bright fresh ripe peachy fruit with bits of red apple and citrus on the nose and palate. More finesse than its price would suggest. Serve all summer solo or with light foods. (AG-ST)

87 KWV Roodeberg White 2008 Chardonnay - Chenin Blanc - Viognier - Semillon - S. Blanc
Western Cape, South Africa
BC $13.00 specialty listing, ON $12.00
The first Roodeberg White was born in 2007; the 2008 was launched in Canada at the Playhouse Wine Festival earlier this year. The style is aromatic and fresh. The blend is a 45/40/15 mix of chardonnay, chenin blanc and bits of viognier sémillon and sauvignon blanc. It's pretty delicious summer sipping stuff with fresh melon fruit, grassy citrus notes and swab of minerality in the finish. Our sample was served under cork but I believe by the time it arrives in Canada, at least in British Columbia, it will be bottled under screwcap so expect it to be another 10 to 15 per cent better on the nose. Less chardonnay more sémillon or sauvignon will really push this to new heights. Well done. Great value. (AG)

87 LoTengo Torrontés 2007
Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $14.00 specialty listing
Good spicy, ginger, lemon oil, melon, floral aromas with a touch of pine. Crisp, fresh, round, slightly sweet palate with lemon oil, mango, ginger, spicy, slate, melon rind flavours. Zippy, floral finish, good juicy style for Indian or spicy Chinese food. (AG-ST)

87 Three Winds Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $0.00
Floral, gooseberry, melon, slate, slightly grassy nose. Fresh, crisp, round, elegant style with grassy, gooseberry, grapefruit rind, lemon and kiwi flavours with a touch of butter on the finish. Good crisp, flavourful style with decent finesse. Will go well with scallops or clams. Good value. (AG-ST)

86 Carmen Chardonnay 2007
Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Calibrium International, AB $13.00 private wine shop, MB $12.00, NF $12.00, ON $10.00, QC $12.00
Look for bright floral, green apple skin, grapefruit rind, and pear aromas. Round, fresh, elegant, slightly sweet palate with fresh acidity. Light butter, grapefruit, lime, baked green apple and pear flavours with a touch of spice. Fresh, easy drinking style for any occasion. Solid value here. We are still waiting on a screw cap closure. Great value. (AG-ST)

86 Rudolf Muller Riesling Chardonnay 2007 Riesling - Chardonnay
Pfalz, Germany
BC $12.49 specialty listing, AB $11.95 private wine shops
Nice bright orange, green apple, pineapple, floral, slate aromas. Crisp, fresh, round palate with ripe melon, orange, lime, green apple, butter flavours. Nice clean, fruity finish with a touch of sweetness. Try with Chinese or Indian food. Good value again. (AG-ST)

86 Snoqualmie Naked Riesling 2007
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
US $12.00
Floral, citrus peel, baked apple, peach skin aromas. Fresh, crispy acidity but has a fair bit of residual giving a sweet and sour palate with baked apple, citrus, slate, honey, pineapple flavours. Solid summer patio wine. (AG-ST)

86 Southern Most White 2008 Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc
Neuquén, Patagonia, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine stores
A pleasant slightly more commercial version of Southernmost red. Fresh mineral melon and tropical fruit flavours with bits of honey and kiwi fruit. Simple patio style summer sipper. (AG-ST)

86 Stone Cellars Chardonnay 2007
California, United States
BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $13.00 private wine shops, NB $14.00, NF $15.00, ON $13.95
Stone Cellars is a fresh, modern look at inexpensive California chardonnay. The nose is a mix of tropical fruit notes with a touch of minerality and bright acidity. A simple patio wine you can sip with or without food. Try it with a grilled chicken salad. (AG-ST)

86 Two Jokers Chardonnay 2007
South Australia, Australia
BC $11.99 specialty listing
Peach, melon, butter, baked apple and candied citrus nose. Round, fresh, elegant palate with good acidity and some sweetness. Buttery, citrus, green apple, melon, peach pit flavours. Simple, fresh, easy style for the general consumer. Solid value. (AG)

85 Casa de Campo Chardonnay 2007
Argentina
BC $13.00 specialty listing, MB $13.00
Melon, peach, butter, honey, ginger aromas. Ripe, round, elegant style with tropical fruit, citrus rind, honey, butter flavours with a touch of bitterness on the finish. Solid, easy style. (AG-ST)

85 Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Western Cape, South Africa
NS $15.00, ON $12.00 LCBO
I'm normally a big fan of the Cathedral Cellar range but this '08 sauvignon misses the mark. It's fresh enough but just a bit too skinny and lean to hold my interest. The fruit is muted; the finish dry. It needs food to carry the day. A screwcap might better aid in preserving its fruit. (AG)

85 McWilliam's Hanwood Chardonnay 2006
South Eastern Australia, Australia
BC $14.99 general listing, AB $14.99, MB $12.99, NS $14.99, ON $11.95 general listing, SK $14.99
Butter, baked apple, cream, peach skin, light citrus nose. Fresh, round, elegant, easy style with just a touch of sweetness. Baked green apple, butter, popcorn, grapefruit, peach flavours. Simple, fresh, easy going style. (AG)

85 Rudolf Muller Liebfraumilch Blue 2007
Rheinhessen, Germany
BC $10.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 fine wine boutiques
Ripe citrus, candied peach, floral, ripe apple aromas. Fresh, elegant, round palate with light sweetness. Red apple, citrus, peach skin, quince, pineapple flavours. Simple, easy style for summer sipping. (AG-ST)

85 Tarapaca Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $10.00 specialty listing
Much like previous version this is a middle of the road sauvignon with grassy grapefruit and nettle notes on the nose with a touch of residual sugar. The fruit is ripe and round with melon, apple pear notes and bits of minerality. A gentle version of the aggressive New Zealand style. Good value. (AG)

85 The Bishop of Riesling 2007
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
BC $12.00 general listing, AB $14.00 private wine shops
The Bishop is a very consistent drop of wine that is easy to like given its attractive baked green apple and citrus nose. Always afresh and touch off-dry it makes for an elegant appetizer-style white or something you can serve with spicy dinner dishes. It's also fine solo on the deck. Good value. (AG-ST)



ROSÉ

 

88 Chat-en-Oeuf Dry Rosé 2008 Cinsault - Grenache - Syrah
Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
BC $14.00 specialty listing
From its appealing, super pale, eye-of-the-partridge colour to its fabulously floral fruity nose this is as impressive as rosé gets for $14. Bracing citrus strawberry red currants fruit flavours meld with a just a twist of lemon in the finish. Cool clean, and food-friendly this should really excel with fresh, local Dungeness crab. (AG-ST)

 

85 Estampa Rosé Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Freehouse Wines & Spirits
Very pale orange pink. Spicy, floral, peppery, wild strawberry nose. Fresh, round, elegant palate with a touch of sweetness. Earthy, peppery, tobacco, raspberry flavours. Simple, easy, food style. (AG-ST)


RED


88 Graham Beck Shiraz Viognier 2006 Syrah - Viognier
Coastal Region, South Africa
BC $15.00 specialty listing
The shiraz and viognier are co-fermented to heighten the spice and floral notes in the front end by winemaker Pieter Ferreira, in essence making it a bit more approachable. The nose is a mix of smoked meat and white pepper with a barnyard, cigar, savoury undercurrent. Super soft, round, ripe, slightly sweet and hot palate with more smoky, resin, peppery, sausage meat, saddle leather flavours with some very ripe fruit. Extremely warm and slightly tart finish flecked with liquorice violets and dried fruit flavours. Ageing takes place in a combination of 30% new French and American oak barrels for 13 months. Very new world style. (AG-ST)

88 Falesco Umbria Sangiovese 2007
Umbria, Italy
BC $14.00 speculative listing - Mark Anthony Brands
Once and a while you stumble on a great buy and wonder how it came to elude you for so long, such is the story of Falesco Sangiovese. Expect a pleasant attractive nose of berries and vanilla with a ripe almost sweet round mid-palate and a full-bodied smooth finish. Amazing weight and texture for the price. Falesco winery is co-owned by famed wine consultant Riccardo Cotarella and his winemaker brother Renzo, who happens to run the Antinori operation too. (AG-ST)

87 Arrogant Frog Ribet Red 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $14.00 specialty listing
The blend is 55/45 cabernet sauvignon/merlot of which a quarter is aged in new oak for 4 months; the other 75 per cent sits in stainless steel vats. The nose is clean and bright with herbal, black fruit and coffee and a pleasant earthy, mushroom, vanilla note. A solid grilled meat wine but would be fine with a selection of cheese to. Very good value. (AG-ST)

 

87 Castillo de Monséran Viura 2006
Cariñena, Aragon, Spain
BC $10.00 specialty listing, ON $9.00
Last year I suggested, when made correctly, Viura could be the poor man's albariño. In fact this '06 albariño-like white is fresher and brighter and slightly more exotic than last years. Love the orange, melon and pear fruit on the mid-palate and the delicious acidity that brightens up the rear end. Simply a delightful summer sipper that works well with simple fish dishes or with light tapas. Great value. Who knows how good this could be under screwcap. Lose the cork, please. (AG-ST)

87 Estampa Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Freehouse Wines & Spirits, ON $14.00 Consignment - Hobbs and Co.
Tobacco leaf, spicy, sappy cassis, dill, black olive, blackberry aromas. Dry, rich, round, supple palate with light tannins. Coffee, peppery, rooty, tobacco, blackberry, licorice, spicy meat flavours. Good intensity if a tad warm. Solid value here for barbecue steak. (AG-ST)

87 Estampa Malbec Petite Syrah 2007 Malbec - Petite Syrah
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Freehouse Wines & Spirits, ON $15.00 consignment - Hobbs and Co.
Bright boysenberry, floral, licorice root, peppery, plum aromas. Ripe, round, dry, supple palate with light tannins. Big black cherry, boysenberry, chocolate, peppery, licorice flavours. A bit warm and rustic but very good fruit and good value. (AG-ST)

87 Marrenon Private Gallery Chardonnay Viognier 2007 Chardonnay - Viognier
Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
BC $15.00 specialty listing
Melon, nectarine skin, honey, citrus, floral aromas. Round, dry, elegant, crisp palate with spicy, buttery, melon, cooked pear, citrus, honey and green apple flavours. Crisp, fruity finish, will go well with seafood. Solid value here. Well done. (AG-ST)

87 Robertson Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Robertson, Breede River Valley, South Africa
BC $9.99 specialty listing
A cooler year contributed to the success of this modest white wine. Bright tropical fruit flavours mark the nose and palate including the ripe: bits of candied pineapple and the cool bits of green apple skin. Balanced refreshing juicy and affordable this one over delivers. Buy it by the case. (AG)

87 Shot in the Dark Shiraz Petite Sirah 2008 Shiraz - Petite Sirah
South Eastern Australia, Australia
BC $14.00 specialty listing
A big friendly red from Oz that dials down the acidity and revs up the rich, smoky, ripe fruit flavours. Round warm, glossy and a touch on the sweet New world side it will resonate with steak eaters and those who like the big reds. Good value. (AG-ST)

87 Southern Most Red 2007 Merlot - Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon
Neuquén, Patagonia, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine stores
Southern Most Red is made by Bodega Del Fin de Mundo and is a remarkable introductory red blend you can afford to drink by the case. The blend mixes merlot, malbec, and cabernet sauvignon in a fresh savoury bright red wine with the weight and texture you expect from Argentina and the supple soft ending. Could be this summer's best hamburger wine. (AG-ST)

86 Argento Reserva Malbec 2008
Mendoza, Argentina
BC $0.00 speculative listing - Calibrium International, MB $14.00, ON $10.00
Argento is a friendly, fruit-driven style of malbec with an intense black cherry/plum nose. The flavours are similar with bits of chocolate and liquorice and just a touch of acidity poking through the back end. Solid, everyday Argentine red at a reasonable price that is best served with hamburgers or other grilled meats. (AG)

86 Argento Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza, Argentina
ON $10.00
The latest Argento cabernet is youthful in colour and aromas. Blackberries, black cherries and vanilla dominate with bits of cocoa and sour cherries in the finish. This wine has a history of over-delivering for the price and the latest example is no different. Excellent value here especially in Ontario. (AG)

86 Ecco Marqués de Vitoria Rioja (Organic) 2007
Rioja Alavesa, Rioja, Spain
BC $15.00 specialty listing
Ecco is made with one hundred per cent tempranillo grown organically. The nose is a touch rustic with barnyard notes bits of black fruit and cedar boughs. The palate is similar in design with raspberry, mushrooms, earth, liquorice and spice. Needs a good 30 minutes of air before serving. (AG-ST)

86 I Sodi Chianti Classico 2005
Tuscany, Italy
BC $0.00
Meaty, barnyard, tobacco, earthy, pruny, black cherry, rooty aromas. Dry, fresh, slightly lean palate with tobacco, cherry, herbal, orange peel, leather, dill and sausage meat flavours. Some finesse in a tarter, more classic style. (AG-ST)

86 La Bastide (Rouge) 2007 Syrah - Grenache - Carignan
l'Hérault, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $10.00 specialty listing
Spicy, meaty, peppery, black raspberry, rooty, tobacco aromas. Round, dry, somewhat lean palate but elegant with meaty, peppery, black cherry, resin, licorice, mineral, dried herb flavours. Solid value and a decent food wine for the barbecue and pasta. (AG-ST)

86 Paul Mas Grenache Noir 2007
South of France, France
BC $14.00 specialty listing
Dried herb, tobacco, raspberry leaf mixes with rooty, minty, peppery notes and a touch of black cherry. The entry is dry with a dusting of tannins and more mineral, black cherry, tobacco, raspberry leaf, herbal flavours. Should be perfect around the barbecue all summer and we like the price. (AG)

86 Protocolo Tinto 2006
Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Christopher Stewart Wines
One of tempranillo's more enduring qualities is its soft, textures and reserved fruit. This wine over-delivers for the price offering up a mix of raspberry and strawberry fruit with vanilla, peppery notes and bits of earth. Certainly this wine delivers for the price offering an easy-drinking, medium-dry, fruit flavours with just a dusting of dry tannins in the finish. Made with 100 per cent high-altitude tempranillo, grown in central Spain. (AG-ST)

86 Three Winds Syrah 2007
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $14.00 specialty listing
Very spicy, smoked meat, sausage, peppery, savoury, garrigue nose with a touch of tar and black cherry jam. Tight, somewhat tannic palate with mocha, peppery, meaty, spicy, black cherry, plum and licorice root flavours. Rustic style will go well around the barbeque. (AG-ST)

86 Tormaresca Paiara 2006 Negroamaro - Cabernet Sauvignon
Apulia, Italy
BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine shops, MB $11.00, NS $12.00
Lovely warm, fat, ripe, rustic fruit aromas with a dose of smoke and tobacco. There are supple round textures on entry that lead to more jammy, cassis, floral flavours with an appropriate riff of southern Mediterranean spice. A go-to barbecue wine for the summer months but will easily transition into pairing with fall mushroom dishes. Great value from Puglia. (AG-ST)

86 Torres Sangre de Toro 2006 Garnacha - Cariñena
Penedès, Catalunya, Spain
BC $12.30 specialty listing, NS $12.50, ON $12.00 LCBO, QC $13.00
The latest edition under screwcap is better balance with no reductive characters. Look for a spicy nose of dark plums and earth with meaty, earthy, cherry orange peel flavours. Solid rustic style red that Torres suggest goes well with stews, game and mushroom dishes. Good value. (AG-ST)

 

85 Casa de Campo Malbec 2007
Argentina
BC $13.00 specialty listing, MB $13.00
Tobacco, savoury, plum, ash, roasted mushroom, meaty aromas. Dry, round, supple palate with fresh acidity. Cherry, blueberry, coffee, peppery, savoury, orange peel, resin, tobacco flavours. Very solid if a bit tart but has good stuffing for grilled meats. (AG-ST)

85 Castillo de Monséran Garnacha 2007
Cariñena, Aragon, Spain
BC $10.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00, MB $11.00, QC $9.05
It's been three years now and this wine continues to over-deliver for its price point. The nose is mix of floral and fruity notes with plummy raspberry fruit flavours and a dusting of spice in the finish. You make the call hamburgers, chicken ribs, spareribs. At these prices pick up two bottles. (AG-ST)

85 Carmen Syrah 2006
Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Calibrium International, AB $12.60 private wine shops
Spicy, orange peel, tobacco, white pepper, black cherry, curry and cedar bark aromas with a touch of dried herbs. Round, dry, supple palate with medium light body. Tobacco leaf, dried dill, peppery, sappy cassis, licorice root, resin and smoky sausage flavours. Easy going barbeque style. (AG-ST)

85 Cortello Vinho Tinta 2006 Castelão - Aragonês
Estremadura, Central and Southern Portugal, Portugal
BC $14.00 specialty listing
Smoky, saddle leather, peppery, tobacco, sausage aromas. Dry, fresh, round palate with light grainy tannins. Peppery, spicy, black olive, smoky, sausage meat, licorice, black cherry, leather flavours. Rustic but has good balance, try with grilled lamb. (AG-ST)

85 Emiliana Etnico Limited Edition Reserva 2007 Shiraz - Merlot - Mourvèdre - Malbec
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $15.00, AB $12.00 private wine shops
Made from organic grapes. Cedar, herbal, dried dill, thyme, peppery, meaty, tobacco nose with a floral, sappy cassis note. Dry, fresh, round palate with light tannins. Tobacco leaf, sappy cassis, cedar, coffee, peppery, clove flavours. Warm, slightly tannic and fresh finish - best with medium rare beef. (AG-ST)

85 Heartland Stickleback Red 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz - Grenache
South Australia, Australia
BC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $14.00 private wine stores, MB $15.00, ON $14.00, SK $14.95
Tobacco leaf, herbal, peppery, black olive, floral, rooty aromas. Fresh, round, slightly tannic palate with blueberry, tobacco, black olive, menthol, brine and herb flavours. A bit tart and warm but fine for the barbecue with the blueberry fruit at the end. (AG-ST)

85 McWilliam's Hanwood Merlot 2007
South Eastern Australia, Australia
BC $14.99 General Listing, AB $14.99
Menthol, tobacco, black olive, herbal, resin aromas with a touch of cherry. Soft, round, slightly sweet and tannic palate with tobacco, herbal, menthol, cherry, licorice and coffee flavours. Basic, easy red. (AG)

85 Mo Salinas Monastrell 2006
Alicante, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
BC $0.00
Spicy, meaty, peppery, smoky, earthy, blackberry, resin aromas. Dry, rich, round, slightly tannic palate with meaty, chocolate, tobacco, earthy, black berry, pruny, leather flavours. A bit old style and rustic. (AG-ST)

85 Stone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California, United States
BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $13.00 private wine shops, MB $12.99 private wine shops, NB $14.00, NF $15.00, NS $14.50, ON $13.95, QC $14.80, SK $14.95
Fairly intense cabernet notes on the nose with peppery, spicy, fruit. The entry is soft with bright berry flavours and touch of acidity balancing off the finish. Bits of cedar and leather mark the short finish. Simple red that is probably best served with grilled meats. (AG-ST)

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.