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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

88 Black Hills Nota Bene 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet FrancOkanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBC $31.95 Winery OnlyYear four of Nota Bene is the best yet from the tiny South Okanagan winery but it remains a work in progress.

88 Black Hills Nota Bene 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $31.95 Winery Only
Year four of Nota Bene is the best yet from the tiny South Okanagan winery but it remains a work in progress. The nose is a mix of black pepper, sausage, sweaty saddle leather, resiny, rootsy, leafy, roasted bell pepper aromas. The entry is rich, smooth and alcoholic and tannins are ripe. The flavours are similar in nature with smoky vanilla, green bean, oive, cassis and resin with black cherry, stewed tomato and roasted peppers. Tasted 3 times this year, it has improved in bottle but it's still herbaceous and somewhat short.

87 Black Hills Nota Bene 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $31.95 Winery Only
The latest Nota Bene a 46/34/20/ cabernet sauvignon / merlot / cabernet franc is much cleaner than past versions on the nose and palate but the flavour profile remains smoky, roasted bell pepper with earthy, tobacco, olive, coffee/resin notes. It is dry round and smooth on entry with supple tannins (yeah) followed by spicy, vanilla, resiny, peppery, black olive flavours laced with tobacco leaf, mineral and licorice flavours. The finish is warm. It needs another 2-4 years to fully develop and hopefully reveal more fruit tones.

87 Blasted Church Chardonnay Musque 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.95; BC $16.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Creamy lees, bread dough/mineral, buttery citrus nose with streaks of white peach. Aromatic style chardonnay made in stainless steel with a fresh tropical fruit (mango pineapple) flavour with a nutty honey undercurrent. Well done. Only 440 cases made.

88 Blasted Church Merlot 2003
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
A super dark opaque colour previews a rich spicy nose of black raspberry and smoky, tobacco leaf. The entry is smooth (there is plenty of alcohol) and supple (light tannins) with cedar-y, coffee, smoky, black cherry, vanilla fruit. A warm year has ripen the fruit and spiked the alcohol but this will be enjoyed by many.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Blanc 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $24.95; BC $14.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
The '04 has fresh pale straw look and the nose confirms the eye offering red apple/pear notes with an exotic streak of orange rind. Winemaker Marcus Ansems prefers the austere steely style hence the stainless steel only ferment and extended lees contact with some stirring. Very likeable citrus finish. Food friendly.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Gris 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.50; BC $18.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Avoiding the bouts of botrytis was the key to surviving the '04 harvest in B.C. and fortunately at Blasted Church the pinot gris came through unscathed. Only 10 per cent of the wine sees wood (yeah) as evidenced by its earthy mineral nose and flavours. Not overly intense but there is enough peachy nectarine fruit and citrus to carry the finish. Solid but not cheap.

90 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $26.90 Winery Only
Very deep cherry colour. Black olive, cassis, spicy, peppery, tobacco, roasted bell pepper, saddle leather aromas with smoky oak vanilla and garrigue notes. Moderately rich round and supple with balanced tannins. Good cassis, black berry, vanilla, chocolate, peppery, minty, smoky, black olive flavours and a touch of roasted bell pepper. Suave, supple style with good balance and intensity and a few tannins to shed. A 3-7 year wine, very good effort.

88 Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $23.00 Winery
Spicy vanilla, honey, mango, peach and baked apple aromas with some citrus notes. Ripe, round, dry and slightly hot with a dry, mineral, oily texture. Citrus, peach, creamy lees, vanilla, buttery baked apple flavours. Very ripe with some good length but showing some alcohol in the finish.

90 Burrowing Owl Meritage 2002 Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $34.90 Winery Only
Just released the 02 is a blend of 40/40/20 cabernet franc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Mocha, minty, black cherry, tea, black berry jam aromas mixed with tobacco, leather, cranberry and peppery orange peel notes. Rich, round, warm and dry with supple, ripe tannins. Big spicy, mocha, peppery, minty, tobacco, clove, smoky black olive flavours with a cassis, coffee vanilla pudding finish. Quite suave with good intensity, should age well over the next 4-6 years. Impressive ― 1000 cases made in a new Pomerol-like style. Reminiscent of Vieux Chateau Certan but hotter.

88 Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.90 Winery Only
Compost, leaf, black cherry, minty, maraschino, vanilla, cola licorice aromas and quite hot. Dry, rich, somewhat tannic and tight palate. Good rootsy, black cherry, minty, vanilla, leafy forest floor and rhubarb flavours. Elegant styling but too hot and compost-y at this point with some dry, tight tannins on the finish. Needs a year or two to settle down.

91 Burrowing Owl Syrah 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.90 Winery
Very dark cherry colour. Big smoky, dried lychee, sausage meat aromas with peppery, licorice root, blackberry jam notes. Rich, round, fat and ripe with blackberry jam, smoky, peppery, vanilla, dried lychee, mineral, gamey flavours with a long, minty, smoky meat finish. Hot (alcoholic) but still a fine effort with a Northern focus. This young brute needs 2-4 years.

87 Calona Vineyards Pinot Blanc Artist Series Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.49 Private Wine Shops, Grady Wine Marketing
Floral, mineral, pear, slightly leesy aromas with a touch of butter. Soft, round, ripe style with buttery, mineral, citrus, peach and apple skin flavours. Simple, fresh style that should go well with any local seafood or for sipping.

91 CedarCreek Cabernet Sauvignon Platinum Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $39.99 Winery
Dark cherry colour. Lots of spicy, peppery, cedar, tobacco leaf mixed with resiny, smoky vanilla aromas cassis and olive. Lovely round, ripe supple textures with fine grained tannins. Fresh cassis, coriander and pepper entry with spicy, cherry, smoky oak and vanilla flavours. Long and warm but well balanced with good finesse. Young, showing some oak, will improve over the next 3-5 years. Newer Bordelais style ― this is very fine, well crafted cabernet sauvignon. Bravo B.C.

89 CedarCreek Chardonnay Platinum Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.99 Speculative - Medallion Wines
Slightly closed nosed with light creamy vanilla, lees, mineral, baked apple and citrus aromas. Dry, round, elegant style with strong mineral, citrus, creamy vanilla, lees, green apple skin flavours with spicy, buttered apple and butterscotch finish. Understated and a bit skinnier than previous efforts but still quite fine. It will need a year or so in bottle to emerge. A classy wine that should be excellent with food.

88 CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Specialty
Floral, orange blossom, mineral, red apple nose with some perfumed, apricot notes. Soft, round, elegant and fresh with mineral, grapefruit, green apple, nectarine and rose petal flavours. A touch sweet and warm but has good acidity and balance and very true to type. Try as a sipper, with duck or with Indian food.

90 Coyote's Run Vidal Icewine 2003
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada
BC $44.99 Speculative Listing - Winebren Wines; ON $40.00 Winery
Barrel fermented. Big apricot, marmalade, citrus, shower curtain, mineral aromas with a touch of egg yolk and vanilla cream. Rich, ripe, round and fat with sweet peach, creamy vanilla, marmalade, candied citrus peel, pineapple flavours. There is plenty of intensity here in a fat, sweet showy icewine.

88 Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider 2003
Quebec, Canada
BC $29.95 Specialty
Clean fresh attractive spicy, ginger, baked apple nose with a hint of honey. Crisp, clean, round and elegant with nice acid and sugar balance. Similar spicy, clove, ginger, mineral, baked apple, floral flavours. Fresher and spicier than the 02 for those who like to drink their wine young.

88 Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider 2002
Quebec, Canada
BC $29.95 Specialty
Mineral, honey, baked red apple, spicy, heavy perfume aromas. It's round, rich, elegant and crisp on the palate with moderate sweetness. Lots of spicy, mineral, baked red apple, honey flavours and a crisp, clean finish. An amazing 5.5 kg of apples are needed to make one bottle but if you like apples this is the real thing.

92 Gehringer Brothers Riesling Ice Wine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $47.99 375mL
Floral, citrus rind, mineral, red apple skin aromas with a touch of peach. Rich, intense, slightly fat palate with nice acidity and elegance. Lots of orange citrus, ripe red apple, mineral, juicy mango, honey flavours with a long candied citrus, green apple, peach finish. The nose is a bit muted but the palate and fruit flavours are excellent. Try in a year or so.

87 Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Specialty
Ripe pear, apple, mineral, nutty earth aromas with some honey. Nice round, rich, soft, elegant and ripe palate with citrus, baked pear, mineral, red apple and quince flavours. Very ripe style with a touch of sweetness and smoke greens but great ripeness. Great consumer style. Well done.

89 Hawthorne Mountain Cabernet Franc 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.95
Quite a pleasant surprise for such an ordinary looking bottle and label. Look for mocha, spicy, smoky, compost, cherry, raspberry aromas with black olive and cigar tobacco. Round, dry, smooth and soft with very smoky oak, spicy, tobacco and fresh black raspberry flavours streaked with pepper and black olive. Nice fruit and varietal expression with the requisite oaky finish that will attract a crowd. Great value.

87 Hawthorne Mountain Merlot 2001
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $16.99; BC $18.95
Unusual gamey, black cherry jam, peppery, licorice nose with some vanilla pudding and smoky notes. Rich, dry, tannic entry with very spicy, clove, smoky oak mixed with coriander, black cherry, and plum fruit. Good intensity but finish is a bit green and herbal. Has the potential to improve over the next few years.

87 Henry of Pelham Meritage 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada
BC $15.90 Specialty
Dill, spicy, tomato leaf, peppery, smoky meat aromas. Soft, round, elegant entry with light tannins. Minty, chalky, mocha, peppery, cassis flavours with some green olive and spice on the finish. There is fine extract, structure and balance to offset the green tinges in the finish.

87 Herder Chardonnay 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $16.90 Winery
Spicy, toasty lees, buttery oak aromas with some honey and green apple. Ripe, round and rich with very buttery, smoky vanilla, nutty, leesy, citrus flavours. Quite warm finish with a sense of sweetness and very smoky butterscotch. A good first effort. Look for this label to improve as they back off the oak.

88 Herder Merlot Bellamy Vineyards 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.90 Winery
Lawrence Herder the former Golden Mile winemaker is making his own wine in the Similkameen Valley and his first merlot has an open smoky, mocha, chocolate aromas mixed with leafy, herbal, spicy, dill and noticeable alcohol. Rich, round, dry, supple tannins with big chocolate, vanilla, smoky, pudding and black cherry flavours with some minty, cedar notes. Very warm finish but has lots of flavour and oak. Quite intense and young needs more time to develop in bottle.

87 Herder Pinot Gris Bellamy Vineyards 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 Sold Out
Mineral, butter, spicy lees nose with pear and baked apple aromas. Round, dry, rich and warm with buttery vanilla, lees, spicy mineral, baked pear and citrus flavours. Good intensity and ripeness if a bit oaky.

88 Inniskillin Okanagan Cabernet Sauvignon Dark Horse Estate Vineyard 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.99 Specialty
Coffee, cassis jam, roasted pepper, smoky vanilla, clove and saddle leather aromas. Big, rich, concentrated palate but hot and tannic. Ripe blackberry jam, cassis, smoky, huge oak vanilla flavours. Great fruit but somewhat over extracted and tannic. Needs a few years to round out but good effort.

87 Inniskillin Okanagan Meritage Olympic Series 2002 Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.95 Specialty
Smoky, mocha, vanilla, cassis, peppery, spicy cherry aromas. Dry, smooth, round and quite supple with smoky oak vanilla, peppery, spicy coffee, black cherry jam and pudding flavours. Finish is somewhat hot and tannic and a bit oaky but balanced. Needs a year or two to soften out.

88 Inniskillin Okanagan Meritage Red Dark Horse Estate Vineyard 2002 Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $23.45; BC $24.99 Specialty
Fine black cherry jam, blackberry, spicy, smoky coffee notes streaked with peppery, black olive and mint aromas. Rich, round, elegant and dry with some grainy astringent tannins. More blackberry, peppery, spicy, cassis, smoky vanilla, mocha, olive flavours. Quite young, needs 2-3 years to smooth out but there is fine intensity and balance.

91 Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $60.00 Winery
It's been several years since we've tasted the Inniskillin Riesling Icewine ― presumably they don't need any help selling these $120 per bottle wines. As it happens the wine was a major hit at the Canadian Wine Awards and is progressing just fine since that August tasting. Look for a lifted aromatic nose of pineapple and citrus and peach with a buttery almost shortbread cookie finish. Very rich and weighty ― all Inniskillin.

89 Inniskillin Okanagan Vidal Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $60.00 Winery
Quite fat 0n nose of peach marmalade and the ever present plastic pail aromas. Rich and viscous on entry with more sweet orange and peach fruit. Very rich finish with burnt caramel and citrus rind flavours. Solid effort in a very warm vintage. Drink now and over the next two to three years. Serve with fresh fruit.

88 Inniskillin Okanagan Zinfandel Bear Cub Vineyard 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $21.95 Winery, VQA stores
We have tasted B.C.'s first commercial zinfandel a few times and it remains consist. Look for a warm (alcoholic) nose with chocolate, smoky vanilla, big black cherry jam and spicy, licorice aromas. Rich, ripe and fairly elegant yet dry with light tannins. More spicy, vanilla, peppery, black cherry, saddle leather flavours. Quite dry and somewhat tannic on the finish with noticeable alcohol. There appears to be enough fruit to hang in while the rest of the wine settles down over the next two or three years.

91 Jackson-Triggs Meritage Proprietors' Grand Reserve 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.95 Speculative - Atlas Wine Merchants
Huge smoky oak, vanilla, black pepper, chocolate pudding, spicy, clove aromas with very ripe blackberry jam streaks. Rich, ripe, concentrated, tannic and extracted with a ton of cassis jam, blackberry, black pepper, sweet vanilla pudding, clove and black olive flavours and a hot finish. A big, oaky style but with great ripeness and intensity. Tone down the oak and extraction and this will be in the running alongside many great blends from around the world.

93 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Grand Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $69.99 Specialty
This is one of the best icewines yet from JT and it should turn heads everywhere. It's all riesling from its fragrant, open, floral peachy/apricot nose to the rich honeyed fruit flavours of pear and apple and orange. Rich long sweet, powerful but with a sense of elegance. Very fine. Enjoy it now.

92 Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $49.99 (375 ml); BC $52.99 (375 ml) Specialty
Intense mineral, baked apple, mineral, citrus rind aromas with a touch of plastic/vinyl curtain and underlying canned peach notes. Very rich, viscous, sweet, intense palate with moderate acidity. Good apricot, mineral, dried peach, red apple, marmalade flavours with a touch of citrus and plastic. Fine acidity and balance on the finish. A solid icewine.

87 Jackson-Triggs Unoaked Chardonnay Proprietors' Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $11.99
Fresh apple, muskmelon, mineral, citrus rind, floral aromas. Very round, smooth, fresh entry but fairly sweet and oily. Nice melon, baked apple, mineral, buttery citrus flavours. A bit rind-y and bitter on the finish but very solid, attractive consumer style wine at an affordable price.

88 Lang Vineyards Riesling Select Late Harvest 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.50 (375 ml) VQA Wine Stores
Mineral, green apple skin, floral, honey, ginger aromas. Ripe, round, elegant and fairly sweet with good acidity. Lots of green apple, lime, honey, mango, mineral flavours with some clover and spice. Good intensity and fruit; drink over the next few years while it's fresh.

89 Mission Hill Chardonnay Estate 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $31.50 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $29.99 Speculative - Mark Anthony Brands; NB $29.96 Special Order - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; ON $28.00 Vintages; YK $29.90 Special Order - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants
Honey, floral, spicy, mineral, lime and orange rind, vanilla aromas with a bit of fruit cocktail. Dry, round, crisp palate but balanced with mineral, fruit cocktail, vanilla, nutty lees, honey, green apple flavours with a touch of nectarine and perfume. Nice intensity but definitely more of a food style - not fat or big but stylish.

87 Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $18.25 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $17.95 Specialty; MB $17.95; NB $18.68; NF $18.45; NS $19.35; NWT $16.45; ON $17.95 Vintages Essentials; SK $17.95; YK $18.95
Peach, green apple, fruit salad, mineral, honey, floral aromas with a slightly smoky note. Dry, crisp, tight style with elegance. Vanilla, dry lees, mineral, lime rind, green apple skin flavours with a floral, peach pit note. Nice elegance but very French in style.

87 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $12.99
Lovely fresh green apple, peach notes with attractive floral/honey, clover aromas. Round, elegant, fairly dry style with mineral, green apple skin, nectarine, honey, floral flavours and a touch of lime rind. Nice acidity and balance in a dryer style for food. This is the kind of riesling we've been waiting for and it comes with screw cap to boot. Load up for summer. Great value.

87 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $14.99; BC $15.99; MB $11.99; ON $15.95; SK $13.98
Clean, fresh nose with pear, tropical fruit, kiwi, gooseberry aromas. Soft, elegant, round palate with gooseberry, grapefruit, spicy, mineral, green apple flavours. Nice balance and would be a fine match for scallops ceviche.

88 Mission Hill Oculus 2002 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - P.Verdot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $39.99 Specialty
Big cassis, black pepper and spicy, saddle leather notes mix with tobacco, orange rind and vanilla pudding aromas. This is a rich, warm, youthful tannic red that will need time to blend its substantial cassis, olive, pepper, orange rind and herbal/leaf flavours. The style is lean and reserved but we know it will grow in the bottle much like the 2001 a wine whose mark we have recently upgraded based on its showing with an additional year in bottle. The blend is 50/30/15/5 merlot / cabernet sauvignon / cabernet franc and petit verdot.

89 Mission Hill Riesling Ice Wine Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $59.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
There's a sense of elegance at Mission Hill that pervades the icewine and in the case of the '03 reserve riesling that translate into a clean fresh nose of apricot mixed with citrus rind that follows through on the palate. More lime and honey greets the mid-palate with some burnt sugar in the finish. Solid mid-weight icewine built for dessert.

92 Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
The latest edition to B.C.'s roster of elite wines is Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2002. Mission Hill's picture perfect winery has garnered a lifetime of accolades for its architecture but now they have a wine with similar impressive structure. Spice, smoky garrigue and licorice root aromas mix easily with black cherry pudding, vanilla, black olive and coriander. The merlot is perfectly ripe with concentrated fruit and supple tannins. Restrained spicy, black cherry jam and chocolate pudding flavours laced with mint, olive, resin and coriander finish long and stylishly. This is the best wine John Simes has made in B.C. and his vineyards are only beginning to fill out.

92 Mission Hill S.L.C. Riesling Icewine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $79.99 (375 ml) Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
Night harvested at minus 12 degrees Celsius has done the trick here. We definitely prefer the freshness here and the slightly lighter weight on the mid-palate. It's sweet enough to attract all yet there is a luscious edge and an acidity lift at the back end that makes this more drinkable. Look for bright apricot fruit and peach skin flavours throughout. Built for dessert but you could serve it solo.

89 Mission Hill S.L.C. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
Restrained grassy, mineral, grapefruit mixed with green fig, clover and smoky mineral aromas with a hint of honey and vanilla lees. It's made in an elegant dry style with grassy, vanilla, creamy fig, grapefruit rind flavours with a light kiwi, smoky mineral finish. Fine crispness on the finish. Think Graves meeting the Loire in British Columbia. A fine first effort, especially given the smoke and fires that wreaked havoc in Okanagan vineyards.

88 Mission Hill S.L.C. Syrah 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
Spicy vanilla, mocha, blackberry, black cherry, smoky garrigue and chocolate pudding aromas. Round, dry, slightly tannic, tight entry with boysenberry, licorice, vanilla pudding, mocha, black cherry, peppery sausage flavours. Dry, slightly elevated acidity with a smoky, peppery finish. Fine fruit and French in style but appears to lack mid-palate concentration at this point which could be a function of young vines. Solid effort.

87 Mission Hill Syrah Estate Bottled 2001
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $28.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $29.90 Private Wine Shops; NB $29.96; ON $29.90 Vintages; Yukon $29.90
Very spicy, sausage, big black pepper licorice resiny nose with a wisp of blackberry and black cherry in the background. Very dry on entry with a touch of acid showing through. Spicy, peppery, resiny, blackberry, licorice root flavours with a smoky note. All the elements are here for a great wine but it lacks the extract and fruit to carry it through to the finish. Needs a few years yet or grilled meat to tame its dry edge.

90 Mission Hill Vidal Ice Wine Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $49.99 (375 ml) Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
We definitely prefer the freshness here and the slightly lighter weight on the mid-palate. It's sweet enough to attract all yet there is a luscious edge and an acidity lift at the back end that makes this more drinkable. Look for bright apricot fruit and peach skin flavours throughout. Built for dessert or simply serve solo.

87 Nichol Vineyard Syrah 2001
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 Winery Only
Typical meaty, spicy, peppery nose with roasted bell pepper notes with licorice and tobacco leaf. Dry, round, slightly tannic palate with tobacco, peppery, meaty, licorice, black cherry flavours. Dry, slightly higher acidity finish but very well balanced. Will benefit from 2-3 years aging or decant before drinking. Similar structure to a Northern Rhone in an average year.

88 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2002
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
Open inviting honey, spicy lees nose mixed with butterscotch, mineral, ripe melon and vanilla cream aromas. Round, full and fresh entry with lots of buttery, spicy cinnamon, vanilla, lees and melon flavours. The finish is long oaky and persistent. Fine effort.

87 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2003
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
Big buttered popcorn, vanilla, honey, diacetyl nose with some earthy, mineral, peach notes. Rich round, slightly fat and dry with some warmth. Smoky charred vanilla oak, buttery, mineral, honey, melon flavours. Well balanced if a very oaky, smoky style. For drinking now.

88 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
Spicy, cedar-y, smoky oak, black pepper, clove, black olive and black cherry nose. Rich, round, dry and slightly tannic but nicely balanced. Lots of smoky oak vanilla, caramel, peppery, clove, mineral, black cherry, cassis flavours with some smoky cedar on the finish. A bit dry and quite young at this point, should improve over the next 2-4 years. A good first release only 400 cases made.

89 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2003
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $59.99 (375 ml) Winery Only
Quite mineral, baked apple, vinyl curtain, citrus rind aromas with a slightly reduced character. Rich, fat, warm and fairly viscous in the mouth. Its tasty ripe apricot, pear, mineral, baked citrus and vinyl flavours are balanced by the acidity but it finishes a bit hot and muted. A bit more brightness would help to lift the wine out of the ordinary.

87 Nk'Mip Cellars Pinot Blanc 2003
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $12.85; BC $14.49 Specialty; MB $13.00
Citrus/lime peel, slate, green peach, mineral, butter aromas mark. On the palate there is a touch of oiliness in the textures and plenty of green apple skin, butter and citrus rind flavours. The finish is crisp with a lightly bitter citrus rind aftertaste. Sound.

87 Nk'Mip Cellars Pinot Noir 2002
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $14.99; BC $14.49 Specialty; MB $15.75; SK $16.95
Tasted several times now and it remains consistent. Look for a spicy, rhubarb, strawberry nose mixed with light compost aromas and some peppery notes. It is soft, smooth round and inviting on entry with balanced ripe strawberry fruit streaked with leafy, spicy, vanilla, compost flavours. The finish is reminiscent of rhubarb and licorice finish. Very sound with good varietal definition. Great value.

87 Oak Bay Vineyard Northern Gewürztraminer 2004
East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $12.99 Specialty
Fresh floral, peach, mineral, spicy nose with a touch of lychee. Round, elegant style with some sweetness but balanced acidity. Spicy, mineral, perfumy, peach, melon flavours. Not big and fat, has some finesse and length despite some obvious residual sugar. Well done, good value. Love the screw cap.

88 Poplar Grove Reserve 2001 Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $34.90 Winery
The blend is 80/20 merlot/cabernet franc. Look for a peppery, spicy, licorice root nose streaked with earthy, clove, mocha and light blackberry notes. It's dry and round on the palate with moderate tannins and fine concentration. Black pepper, chocolate, licorice, and vanilla flavours mix with a smoky, spicy earthy finish. Good intensity if a bit hot and chunky. It still needs a couple of years but not too long. Better with food.

91 Quails' Gate Cabernet Sauvignon Family Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $35.00 Winery, VQA Wine Stores
Tasted several times this year and there is no mistaking the big smoky, sweet cola vanilla, peppery nose mixed with spicy, black olive, black berry, earthy, tobacco aromas. Rich, round, dry and supple with roasted pepper, black cherry, spicy, smoky vanilla cola, spicy prune flavours. Quite warm on the finish with a touch of acidity. A good mid-term drinking wine. The big American oak sheen will be attractive to many consumers.

87 Quails' Gate Chardonnay Family Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.99 Specialty
Big buttery, smoky oak nose with vanilla, nut and honey aromas. Fat, round, soft entry with buttery, vanilla, hazelnut, spicy lees and honey flavours. Quite warm and oaky with some balance but lacks fruit and freshness overall. There is segment of the market still drinking this style chardonnay but we are looking for more vibrant fruit and acidity.

88 Quails' Gate Fume Blanc Family Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.95 Winery, VQA stores
Ripe grapefruit, citrus rind, mineral, grassy, vanilla, green apple and melon aromas. Rich, ripe, round and oily with some heat. Big fig, grassy, grapefruit, melon rind flavours with a very buttery, vanilla, slightly bitter finish. Good intensity but it needs a time to settle down and let all the parts melt together. It has bright future.

87 Quails' Gate Gewürztraminer Limited Release 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Specialty
Spicy, floral, orange blossom, mineral aromas with a bit of almond and peach. Soft, round, sweeter style with mineral, citrus peel, spicy sausage, and baked apple flavours. The finish has decent acidity but this is more of an off-dry sipper for the patio than a main stream dinner wine.

91 Quails' Gate Merlot Family Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 Specialty
Super spicy, vanilla, clove nose with notes of coffee and pudding. Rich, round, ripe smooth tannins with big alcohol and lifted fruit flaovurs. On the palate look for big smoky oak, coffee, vanilla flavours with streaks of licorice and cedar. A very warm year has left this a bit over ripe but it's well worth cellaring to see how it develops over the next few years.

88 Quails' Gate O.V.F. Reserve Old Vines Foch 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.99 Winery
Very spicy, peppery, smoky oak, vanilla, prune and coffee aromas. Smooth, soft, round and dry on the palate with lots of smoky, spicy, gamey, coffee, black cherry flavours. Well balanced and fun to drink if you like those gamey foch notes.

88 Quails' Gate Riesling Family Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.95 VQA Wine Stores
Look for a rich honey, peach and leesy nose streaked with mineral and creamy, orange aromas. Its round and rich on entry with a slightly oily texture. Lots of orange peel, mineral, light lees, creamy, green apple and quince flavours. Quite dry but well balanced and intense, more in the Alsace style. Well done.

90 Quails' Gate Riesling Icewine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $54.99 (375mL)
Fabulous mineral, ripe peach, ripe red apple, citrus aromas. Rich, elegant, sweet with fair acidity. Nice citrus, baked pear, ripe peach, citrus, apricot skin flavours. Love the elegance and flavour intensity even if it finishes a bit soft. Drink while young and fresh.

87 Sandhill Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah Burrowing Owl Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.99 Granville Island Brewing Retail Store; or www.sandhill.ca
Smoky ok and vanilla mixed with mocha, tomato leaf, saddle leather, prune and olive aromas. Dry, round, rich and slightly tannic with big smoky vanilla, cedar, licorice, roasted tomato and spicy blackberry, resin flavours. Lots of flavour intensity but very oaky and alcoholic and there are still some tannins to shed.

87 Sandhill Gewurztraminer Seven Mountain Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.99 VQA wine shops
Mineral, spicy sausage rose petal nose streaked with marzipan and peach pit aromas. Very dry, round, warm entry with good acidity but somewhat austere style. Big mineral, perfumed, spicy, red apple, citrus rind flavours and a dried lychee finish. Alsace style without quite the weight but better acidity. Solid food wine style.

88 Sandhill One Phantom Creek Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Petit Verdot - Malbec
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.99 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
The '02 Small Lots One is a 95/5/3 blend of cabernet sauvignon/petite verdot and malbec grown at Phantom Creek Vineyard just off Black Sage Road south of Oliver. Look for a huge spicy, smoky nose with coffee pudding, tobacco, caraway and peppery blackberry fruit aromas. Rich, hot and fat it has a supple mid-palate with big coffee, cedar, tobacco, mocha, black cherry, cedar and stewed plum flavours. A monster, alcoholic red that will appeal to hose who love big rich powerful reds.

89 Sandhill Small Lots Program Petit Verdot Phantom Creek Vineyard 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.99 Granville Island Brewing Retail Store; or www.sandhill.ca
Dense black cherry colour. Peppery, cardamom, resiny, cassis, violet, chocolate, smoky vanilla aromas with some gamey, saddle leather notes. Rich, round, dry and smooth with good acidity and ripe tannins. Nice smoky vanilla, coffee, cassis, black cherry, tea, resiny, sage flavours with a sweet vanilla pudding finish. Fine effort, drink now or keep for 2-3 years. 188 cases made in this the t release. Might be even better as a "spicing agent" in a Meritage blend especially if it reduces the cabernet sauvignon content.

87 Sandhill Small Lots Program Sangiovese Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.99 Granville Island Brewing Retail Store; or www.sandhill.ca
Howard Soon has had a good year. We love the spicy, peppery, licorice root nose and the streaks of black cherry, sweet vanilla aromas mixed with light, leafy barnyard notes. Quite supple with very light tannins. Big cherry, almond, peppery, vanilla, smoky cola, earthy mushroom flavours. A touch alcoholic but with fine intensity. Needs a year or so to round out. This decent sangiovese. Only 618 cases produced.

87 Sandhill Small Lots Program Three Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002 Sangiovese - Barbera - Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.49 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
Butterscotch vanilla pudding, espresso, black cherry jam, kirsch, smoky pepper aromas. Ripe, round, smooth and quite dry on entry with massive smoky, coffee, peppery, vanilla, black licorice and cherry flavours. Quite alcoholic and dry on the finish with big oak. Let's hope the oak recedes over the next few months and let's the fruit really shine thorough.

87 Sandhill Two Burrowing Owl Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Dunkelfelder
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.99 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
Smoky espresso, black cherry, licorice, crushed leaf, tobacco, minty, spicy nose but a bit hot. Rich, ripe, round and slightly tannic. Big smoky oak, coffee, cranberry, resiny, licorice, tobacco, roasted tomato flavours with a bit of cooked prune. Good intensity if somewhat alcoholic. Needs 2-3 years.

88 See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.99
Remarkably consistent is the best way to describe the SYL Chardonnay. Typically the nose is toasted and laced with a mineral, honey, vanilla peach scent. On the palate it is rich but dry and round with more honey vanilla all streaked with mineral. A warm year and a rich wine. Well done and fairly priced.

91 See Ya Later Ranch Ping 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Cabernet Franc - Merlot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $21.99 VQA Wine Stores
Spicy, peppery, waxy, green bean, olive and black cherry aromas with a big streak of coffee vanilla and cardamom. Rich, ripe, round and supple with big spicy vanilla oak, black cherry jam, chocolate pudding, licorice flavours and a peppery, tobacco finish. Somewhat alcoholic but ripe and long with pretty good balance and ripeness. Somewhat reminiscent of the mocha chocolate pudding coffee JT style.

87 Soaring Eagle Merlot Limited Edition 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.40 VQA Wine Stores
Bright spicy vanilla, smoky cedar nose with streaks of black cherry and shoe polish. Soft, round, supple style with black cherry, spicy, vanilla flavours mixed with smoky resin, peppery mint with a touch of heat on the finish and light, dry tannins. Good effort.

87 Sumac Ridge Brut Méthode Classique N/V Pinot Blanc - Pinot Noir - Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.99 Specialty
New to us at least is the Sumac non-vintage Brut. A touch foamy mousse previews a nutty, almond, citrus, mineral nose with toasted floral aromas. Fairly crisp and dry with very toasty, nutty, warm citrus, mineral flavours and a slightly bitter, warm, green apple finish. A bit thin but sound.

88 Sumac Ridge Merlot Black Sage Vineyard 2001
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.99 Speculative Listing - Vincor International
Big smoky, oak, vanilla, spicy, pudding, cherry jam. Soft, round, forward style with supple tannins. Big sweet vanilla, smoky, spicy, coffee flavours. Balanced and round but lacks some fruit and very oaky style.

87 Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.50 Specialty
Peach, melon, spicy garlic lees, buttery, mineral aromas. Soft, round, slightly oily texture but fairly dry and a bit warm. Lots of buttery, melon, honey, vanilla, garlic lees flavours with a mineral, citrus finish. A bit soft but has good fruit and balance for drinking over the next 6-9 months.

89 Tinhorn Creek Oldfield's Collection Merlot 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.00 Winery Only
This is the second release under screw cap for the Collection series and it's the whole production this time. Look for a spicy, cardamom, smoky, dill and black cherry nose with vanilla aromas and a touch of saddle leather and licorice. Rich, round, concentrated and dry with very grainy but ripe tannins. Intense smoky, chocolate, peppery, black plum, mocha, tobacco flavours with an olive and orange note in the finish. Young, big and ripe and much better at this stage than the 2001. Needs 3-5 years of ageing and there are no cork concerns. Expected release: Fall 2005.

89 Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Kerner Icewine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.95 (200 ml) VQA wine shops
Typically floral the '03 kerner has richer undertones of baked apples and peaches. The entry is round and sweet with soft acidity but it's not cloying. The finish is peaches and apples with a small streak of mineral. It's not too big and hence ready to sip now. Good value. Tinhorn suggests fresh fruits, cheese or a lighter pastry to accompany it or in small amounts with a rich pate, such as foie gras before dinner.
Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.