Marvellous Merlot

Some of its lost lustre can be attributed to indifferent juice created to take advantage of the health rush to red wine, while some of the waning interest can be linked to sheer boredom and overexposure. That said, good merlot will never be out of style, and as shiraz begins its indifferent stage for all the same reasons, bet on merlot making a comeback.

Merlot forms the backbone of Bordeaux's famed Right-Bank St-Emilion and Pomerol reds. It is also found in other Bordeaux wines where it is used to fill out the blend; on the Left Bank, it is mixed in varying lesser amounts with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.

The merlot grape is bluish black and an early ripener, which makes it ideal for cooler climates such as the Okanagan and Bordeaux, where when it is fully ripe it is picked well ahead of cabernet sauvignon.

As much as I dislike the term drinkability as it relates to wine, that's exactly what merlot is all about, led by its inherently attractive, melt-in-your-mouth flavours. In a perfect year, it produces rich and sometimes voluptuous wine with flavours reminiscent of blackcurrant and mint. At its best, merlot is approachable even when young in a manner that the more tannic cabernet sauvignon cannot be.

Merlot juice typically has more sugar than cabernet so that a degree or two of extra alcohol is achieved, adding weight and roundness to its texture -- that makes it more sippable.

As we approach the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, today's picks can be used to sharpen the taste buds and once again prepare you for the massive International Tasting Room.

At the end of today's notes, I have listed some of the most important merlots that will appear at the festival chosen from a list of nearly 50. For more festival news, visit www.playhousewinefest.com

We begin with the Valdivieso Merlot 2002 from Chile. Look for pronounced sappy/cassis, leafy cherry-fruit notes on the nose with a sprinkling of pepper. Its texture is super soft and round; its flavours a fine mix of youthful, spicy, black-cherry fruit with hints of mint and orange rind. I expect it to fly off the shelves all year.

From B.C. don't miss the Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot 2002 made by Gehringer Brothers. Despite a light colour, the nose is an interesting mix of dry earth, pepper and tobacco leaf. It's soft and round on entry with just a bit of tannin showing and more earthy cherry, peppery cedar flavours in the finish. This is a fine "barbecue red" that should be ready for casual drinking throughout the summer of 2004.

Across the border and a few hours south are the vineyards behind Columbia Crest Merlot Two Vines 2000. Smoke vanilla, tobacco and black plum jam make for an inviting Northwest merlot with fine concentration and balance. Peppery, black cherry, licorice and smoky vanilla flavours persist across the palate and throughout its smooth finish. A great restaurant steak wine.

The Woodbridge Merlot 2001 is made with mostly Lodi, Calif. fruit that displays a mix of spicy, earthy, compost and carrot top aromas. The entry is soft and round (and slightly sweet) with smoky, leafy, sour cherry flavours. A simple, easy-sipping red to accompany the likes of grilled flatbread pizza.

Still with California is the Talus Merlot 2001. Here the mix of fruit is harvested from vineyards in Lodi, Solano County, Central Valley and the Central Coast. Look for minty, leafy, cherry, smoky aromas and flavours with more black cherry and smoke in the finish. Another solid every-day red selling at a fair price.

Victoria Australia is the home region of Deakin Estate Merlot 2002. Look for a cherry, spicy, smoky saddle leather nose, soft, round and smooth with smoky, cherry, cassis-fruit flavours. The finish is sweet with a dusting of cedary tannins. Soft, simple, easy-drinking, commercial-style merlot for the barbecue.

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As promised, here's a short list of superstar merlots that will be poured at the Playhouse Festival next week -- it's both global and impressive: Bookwalter Columbia Valley, Washington; Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre, Casablanca, Chile; Chalone Sagelands Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley, California; Chateau St. Jean Merlot, Sonoma County, California; Grant Burge Hillcot, Barossa Valley, Australia; J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Paso Robles, California; Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve, Sonoma County, California; Kim Crawford Te Awanga Hawkes Bay Merlot, New Zealand; Matanzas Creek, Sonoma Valley California; Merryvale Vineyards Reserve Napa Valley, California; Monterra Merlot, Monterey County, California; Pine Ridge Crimson Creek Merlot, Napa Valley, California; Sterling Vineyards Three Palms Merlot, Napa Valley, California; Sumac Ridge Black Sage Vineyard, Okanagan, B.C.; Torres Atrium, Penedes Spain.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Merlot Madness

Wine Valdivieso Merlot 2002, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Price $13.49
UPC 7802180088884
Score 15/20
Remarks Soft round youthful spicy black cherry fruit.

Wine Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot 2002, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price $14.49
UPC 623871020115
Score 14/20
Remarks A best value B.C. merlot and a perfect barbecue red.

Wine Columbia Crest Merlot Two Vines 2000, Columbia Valley, Washington
Price $18.74
UPC 088586001109
Score 15.5/20
Remarks Black cherry, licorice and smoky vanilla flavours; smooth finish.

Wine Woodbridge Merlot 2001, California
Price $14.43
UPC 086003000490
Score 14/20
Remarks A simple, easy-sipping pizza red.

Wine Talus Merlot 2001, California
Price $12.98
UPC 088232003570
Score 14.5/20
Remarks Tobacco, spice, ripe black cherry and smoky earthy notes.

Wine Deakin Estate Merlot 2002, Victoria, Australia
Price $12.99
UPC 636662058228
Score 14/20
Remarks Soft easy-drinking, commercial-style merlot for the barbecue.