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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

WHITE 89 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest Private Reserve 2003 Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, ChileBC $14.95 (375 ml) specialty listingRich botrytis/egg yolk, honey, cream and nectarine skin aromas.

WHITE


89 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest Private Reserve 2003
Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $14.95 (375 ml) specialty listing
Rich botrytis/egg yolk, honey, cream and nectarine skin aromas. Ripe, round, elegant and fresh with medium acidity but not too sweet. Fine mineral, petrol, apricot, egg yolk, grapefruit and passion fruit flavours. Tasty and fresh with good length. Could use a touch more acidity but well balanced nonetheless. Great value.

 

89 Cono Sur Gewurztraminer Limited Release 2006
Bio-Bio Valley, Chile
BC $10.88 specialty listing
Big fresh floral, spicy, lychee, grapefruit, honey, orange peel aromas. Fresh, crisp, round entry and fairly dry with good acidity. Elegant with ginger, orange, grapefruit, honey, lychee and mineral flavours. Great food wine and very well balanced with a crisp finish. Try with Indian food, chicken or pork. Incredible value.

88 Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile
ON $13.95
Ripe passion fruit, gooseberry, butter, kiwi aromas with a slightly smoky, grassy edge. Round, soft, elegant and clean with grassy, grapefruit, passion fruit, smoky apple flavours with a hint of artichoke. Crisp and balanced with persistent fruit on the finish. Good value.

87 Arrogant Frog Chardonnay Viognier 2006
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $13.99 speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs
Hmm, viognier and chardonnay in a screw cap, how New World. Actually it's Old World, form the south of France. The Arrogant Frog white is a show stopper for the price. Round rich and oily, it's packed with spicy tropical fruit and a dash of refreshing minerality. The finish is clean and warm. Chill down and party with Thai or Indian food. Great value.

87 Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2005
Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile
AB $11.50; BC $12.95 general listing; MB $10.95; NF $11.57; NS $12.95; SK $13.10
Floral, tropical fruit, pear, butter, vanilla aromas. Ripe, round, fresh palate with butter, citrus, vanilla, baked apple and pineapple flavours. A touch sweet and oily on the finish but good freshness and balance. Continued good quality and with a new screw cap.

87 Gustav Adolf Schmitt Niersteiner Riesling Spatlese Late Harvest 2005
Rheinhessen, Germany
BC $12.95 Specialty
Orange, spicy, peach, pineapple, candied ginger, baked green apple aromas. Ripe, fat, slightly sweet entry but elegant. Spicy, slate, rose, orange, cement, mineral, peach skin flavours. Good solid drink if a bit fat on the finish. Try with Indian curry.

 

87 Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Blanc Reserve 2005
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.49 specialty listing
While I'm not a huge fan of pinot blanc, winemaker Sandor Mayer is doing a solid job with it. Like the previous year it has plenty of peach, red apples, nectarine notes in its floral nose. It warm if not a bit hot on the palate with more red apple, nectarine, and citrus rind flavours. This finish is long and warm. Think turkey dishes or perhaps even pork. Fine value.

87 Paul Mas Viognier 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $13.99 speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs
Very floral, perfumed, butter, ginger, slate, mineral, honey and lees aromas. Dry, round, elegant, slightly lean entry but crisp. Apricot, ginger, mineral, butter, orange, honey and butter flavours. Very attractive style for food and very good value.

87 Tormaresca Chardonnay 2005
Apulia, Italy
AB $12.99 private wine shop; BC $13.99 specialty listing; SK $14.19
Tormaresca chardonnay blends fruit from both key Tormaresca estates: Bocca di Lupo in Murgia, and Masseria Maime in Salento. It's partially barrel fermented which accounts for its buttery peach aromas and flavours, but you can also taste the minerals and the nearby sea influence on the nose and palate. A soft, fresh, ripe apple/citrus chardonnay with an elegant demeanour that reflects its European origins in flavour and style. Try with sole or other light, simply prepared fish dishes.

87 Weingut Lorch Riesling Hochgewachs Bergzaberner Altenberg 2005
Pfalz, Germany
AB $10.95 private wine shop; BC $12.99 specialty listing
Nectarine, green apple petrol, honey aromas with some slate. Firm fresh fruit on the mid-palate with more nectarine, peach, mineral, apple and slate flavours. Consistent with last year's fine effort. Great riesling value.

 

86 Bisquertt Casa La Joya Reserve Viognier 2006
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $14.95 estimated price
Orange, ginger, floral, mineral, slate aromas with a hint of butter and matchstick. Round, moderately dry, soft palate with mineral, flinty, ginger, orange blossom, light butter, apricot skin flavours. Solid if a bit warm and bitter on the finish. Good value.

86 La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Luberon Blanc 2005 Grenache Blanc - Bourboulenc - Ugni Blanc - Roussanne
Côtes du Lubéron, Provence, South of France, France
AB $12.00; BC $12.99 specialty listing; NS $11.66; ON $11.30; QC $13.30
Floral, lemon oil, quince, nutty, buttery, citrus nose. Clean, round, fresh, dry style with buttery, lemon oil, citrus rind, slate, pear skin flavours with a light floral, orange peel finish. Solid food wine.

86 Lamberti Santepietre Pinot Grigio 2005
Veneto, Italy
BC $14.11; NS $11.90; ON $12.05; QC $13.75
There's 5 per cent chardonnay in the Lamberti grigio which comes from the Veneto and nearby Trentino. It opens with an earthy mineral nose streaked with green apple. On the palate there is a touch of honey/sugar to add a bit of weight and texture to his clean mineral flavoured white. Perfect for West coast shellfish or pair it up with some linguine and clams.

86 Leopard's Leap The Lookout Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay - Colombard 2006 Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay - Colombard
Western Cape, South Africa
BC $11.99 specialty listing
A clean nose is great start. Fresh notes of citrus, green apple and honey aromas and flavours. A dry, lip-smacking finish suggests oysters, clams or simple white fish dishes.

86 Voga Pinot Grigio 2005
Veneto, Italy
BC $14.99 specialty listing
Fresh aromas of citrus with bits of almond nutty lemon oil. On the palate there are grassy, honey, lime rind, nutty notes. The finish is dry and clean with honey, floral, baked apple nuances. Simple sushi wine.


ROSÉ

 

87 La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2005 Grenache - Shiraz - Mourvèdre - Cinsault
Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
AB $12.00; BC $13.87 specialty listing; ON $10.95 general listing; QC $13.90
Attractive, pale raspberry colour. Very floral, raspberry, strawberry, mineral, citrus and rhubarb nose. Dry, round, soft, easy style with earthy, mineral, floral, raspberry and sour cherry flavours. Good balance if a bit lean, now under screwcap which really lifts the fruit. Perfect luncheon wine.


RED

87 Barahonda Monastrell 2004
Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
AB $15.50; BC $13.85 speculative - Christopher Stewart
Meaty, chocolate, peppery, cherry, saddle leather, smoky, animal aromas. Soft, round, rich and round with black cherry, marmalade, smoky, chocolate, vanilla, peppery flavours. Good concentration and roundness with a long fruity finish. Good except for a bit of the animal in the nose. Good value.

 

87 Bisquertt Casa La Joya Reserve Malbec 2004
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $14.81 specialty listing
Big smoky leafy meaty nose with peppery cassis fruit. Soft round and warm on entry with more leafy dry earthy black fruit and vanilla flavours. Attractive despite its herbal edge and would be fine with grilled sausages, hamburgers or flank steak. The finish is long and smooth.

87 Castillo de Monséran Old Vine Garnacha 2004
Cariñena, Aragon, Spain
BC $13.99 speculative listing - Mark Anthony Brands; QC $9.05
Very spicy, peppery, floral, raspberry jam, barnyard, chocolate aromas. Dry, round, supple but a bit tight with peppery, orange peel, raspberry, spicy, plum flavours with slightly fresh acidity on the finish. Good fruit and balance but designed for food. Try with pork or duck. Very good value.

87 Chakana Syrah 2005
Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2
BC $14.99 specialty listing
Smoky, resiny, spicy, savoury, menthol, meaty, chipotle aromas with some black cherry jam. Warm, dry entry with smooth, round tannins. Full with savoury, menthol, resiny, black cherry, rootsy, coriander flavours. Very warm, dry, savoury finish. Solid.

87 Equis Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2004 Bobal - Mazuelo - Garnacha - Cencibel
Castilla-La Mancha, Spain
BC $13.95 Speculative Christopher Stewart
Meaty, smoky, chocolate, tobacco, black cherry, barnyard aromas. Dense, soft, slightly sweet, full bodied style with some light dry tannin. Spicy, peppery, cherry, earthy, chocolate, marmalade flavours. Solid fruit core and intensity with just a bit of acidity showing. Very solid, enjoyable food wine.

87 Finca Flichman Expresionés Reserve Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza, Argentina2
ON $15.95 Vintages
This new series of wines from Finca Flichman opens with a soft, round, easy-sipping demeanour with an upfront hit of vanilla and black fruit. The finish is savoury with hints of pepper and more warm spicy vanilla fruit. Well made, affordable red. A fine upgrade from the varietal series.

87 Tormaresca Neprica 2004 Negroamaro - Primitivo - Cabernet Sauvignon
Apulia, Italy
AB $12.95 private wine shop; BC $14.99 specialty listing; SK $14.97
The clever Neprica blends ne-groamaro, pr-imitivo and ca-bernet sauvignon to capture the warm, almost tropical essence of southern Italy. Chocolate, licorice and black fruit with flecks of mineral and anise make this a perfect introduction to the New South wrapped in an earthy, inviting style. A solid performer spaghetti Bolognese, grilled sausages and flank steak.

86 Bisquertt Casa La Joya Reserve Merlot 2004
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $14.76 specialty listing
Fragrant minty bay leave nose with spicy green olive notes. Round and smooth on entry with a savoury chocolate/vanilla flavoured mid-palate. A touch sweet and warm but balanced with just enough acidity to freshen the palate.

86 Goats do Roam (Red) 2005 Pinotage- Shiraz - Grenache - Cinsault - Gamay - Carignan
South Africa
AB $13.00; BC $14.95 specialty listing; MB $11.78; ON $12.95 Vintages Essentials Collection
The latest Goats is much like its predecessors with an open gamy, meaty, licorice plum jam nose. The entry is smooth and supple; the flavours a mix of meaty spicy black cherry/licorice flavours. The finish has a touch of acidity that seems to set off the ripe fruit and dusty tannins. Good value.

86 Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
Abruzzo, Italy
BC $14.95 Specialty
It's amazing what a sunny, warm vintage will do for some of Italy's lesser lights. This Montepulciano has put on some weight and texture to go with its smoky, peppery, licorice, plum flavours and firm acidity. It's now a very enjoyable spaghetti red that offers value for money. Look for this to show up on the Italian/Mediterranean wine list circuit.

86 Mad Dogs and Englishman Jumilla 2005 Monastrell - Syrah - Cabernet Sauvignon
Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
BC $14.99 specialty listing
Peppery, animal, floral, chocolate, black cherry, menthol, and tea leaf aromas. Dry, elegant, round palate but a touch light and hot. Licorice, black cherry, smoky, resin, menthol, tobacco flavours. Light tannins on the finish with a bit of heat coming through. Best with food or keep an extra year in bottle.

86 Michel Torino Coleccion Pinot Noir 2004
Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Northern Region, Argentina2
NS $21.95 private wine shops
Very floral, red berry fruit, leafy, celery root aromas. Dry, round, elegant palate with light tannins. Fresh with raspberry, leafy, mineral, spicy flavours. Simple, easy style with some finesse for current drinking with food.

86 Mont Tauch Reserve de la Perrière Fitou 2004 Carignan - Grenache - Syrah
Fitou, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $9.99 specialty listing
Spicy, savoury, black cherry, floral, smoky, barnyard aromas. Soft, round, supple style with cherry, plum, mineral, savoury, meaty flavours. Dry, fruity finish in a slightly tart, rustic style but good for food. Excellent value here.

86 Straccali Chianti 2005 Sangiovese - Canaiolo Nero - Merlot.
Tuscany, Italy
BC $13.99 speculative - Saverio Schiralli
Meaty, floral, cherry, leather aromas. Round, ripe, supple, balanced palate with cherry, chocolate, tobacco, earth and meaty flavours. Simple, ripe, forward style at a fair price.

86 Vitae Sangiovese Puglia 2004
Apulia, Italy
BC $13.25 specialty listing
Smoky, resin, spicy, plum jam nose with black pepper, floral, rootsy, game notes. Dry, soft, round and supple with plum, cherry, spicy, smoky, licorice root flavours. Simple, easy going food wine with a solid fruit core and solid value.

86 Wolf Blass Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Red Label 2005 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon
South Eastern Australia, Australia
AB $13.95 private wine shop; BC $14.99 specialty listing; MB $13.99; NS $16.99; ON $13.95; PEI $16.35; QC $15.85; SK $15.99
Spicy, peppery, olive, blackberry, rootsy, resin nose. Soft, round, slightly juicy entry but tart. Black olive, cassis, spicy, leather, tobacco flavours. Solid but could use a bit more generosity and less acidity.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.