Malbec versus Sauvignon Blanc - Playhouse 2010

All three evening public tasting sessions were sold out as usual.

It had to be a thrilling, if in some cases daunting week, for the 55 B.C. wineries that made up the 2009 theme region. I'm sure many of our smallest producers couldn't have imagined how busy the room would be and how many tasters would swarm their booths in search of information.

That said, it is a two-way street and I'm also sure some our brightest enterprises will be doing what its international counterparts will be doing this week; namely, a full debrief and analysis of all that was seen and heard in the tasting room. From screwcaps and labels, to bottle weights, POS and marketing materials, and much more, the festival remains a treasure trove of information for the wide-eyed and inquisitive.

For my part, I thought a recap of my schedule, or at least part of it, might give you a quick glimpse into the madness that was the 31st Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival. Of course, I am also sharing some of my favourite picks.

Monday Earls Paramount hosted the festival kickoff and winemaker Sandor Mayer of Inniskillin Okanagan entertained the attendees with a tasting of his Discovery Series wines. Best label that day was a tight, fresh edgy, Inniskillin Marsanne Roussanne 2007 from the Okanagan Valley. Later the same night, the Wyse Family of Burrowing Owl hosted a sold-out Glowbal Restaurant in Yaletown. They didn't serve their terrific Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2007 this night but it appeared later in the week at the Icons of BC tasting.

Tuesday evening Cin Cin, and Caymus winemaker owner Chuck Wagner, wowed a large crowd of diners with some fabulous wines and food. Best match was the morel and chanterelle mushroom cannelloni in a truffle Marsala sauce and the Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007. The perfect meal was only exceeded by the highly professional and seamless service of everyone at Cin Cin.

Wednesday afternoon, the Morris Wosk Centre was sold out for an intriguing debate on "green" wines.

Participants wrangled over nomenclature, certification and pricing. In the end, authenticity and truth were the directions most wanted, with a desperate plea from this writer for a universal green symbol we could rely upon.

Wednesday evening in Gastown, the Canvas Lounge was rocking with California wine. Stars for me were the Gloria Ferrer Brut N/V, Seghesio Old Vines Zinfandel 2007, Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2007, Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. California vintners seemed buoyed by the flush Vancouver crowds but most admit they will face strong challenges at home and abroad in 2009 as they come to grips with America's economic downturn.

Thursday morning the opening plenary "Our Land Revealed" featured eight B.C. wines and a team of seasoned winemakers and owners who, with considerable ease, told the story of B.C.'s rise to winemaking respectability. All the wines chosen were excellent but I would give standout marks to the Quails' Gate Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, the Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay 2007, the CedarCreek Platinum Merlot 2007 and the Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2006.

The annual Trade Day lunch was shared with Australia's Robert Hill Smith (Yalumba), Phil Laffer (Jacob's Creek) and Kiwi Jim Robertson (Brancott by Montana). They couldn't get over the size of luncheon or the quality of the food the Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre chef Blair Rasmussen doled out for the 540 guests. Hundreds of bottles of wines were passed from table to table as the business of wine was discussed.

Pinot Rama featured 15 wines made with some sort of pinot, be it blanc, noir or gris. Champagne de Venoge Blanc de Noirs kicked off the tasting in fine style, demonstrating that the highest expression of pinot can often contain bubbles.

Friday morning, BC Reds Reach for the Top was another sell-out. Attendees were asked to consider our "fresh like the New World, structured like the Old World" reds in a new light. The CedarCreek Syrah 2005 surprised the room with its depth and power, ditto for the Le Vieux Pin Apogee Merlot 2006. Mission Hill Quatrain 2005, Laughing Stock Portfolio 2006 and the Osoyoos Larose 2006 put our best blends in the limelight, making a case for the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

Saturday morning the Playhouse announced New Zealand and Argentina would attend as co-theme countries in 2010 - picture a week of where sauvignon blanc versus malbec and the haka versus the tango. It could be very interesting.

On Saturday afternoon, the Icons Wines of British Columbians explored a series of top blends and varietals. Some standout benchmarks, (a word I prefer over icons) included CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2008, a delicious aromatic freak of nature. Similarly aromatic and fresh is the Tantalus Riesling 2007. The blockbuster Jackson Triggs SunRock Shiraz 2006 and the Mission Hill Riesling Icewine 2007 rounded out a week the home team step onto the world stage.

Now that we have arrived, the question is, what's next?

BC FESTIVAL STARS

CEDARCREEK EHRENFELSER 2008, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price       $18.00
UPC       778913028069
Score     89/100
Remarks                Made for spicy Indian, Thai and Chinese foods or serve liberally on the patio.

TANTALUS RIESLING 2007, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price      $23.00

UPC       626990067412

Score     87/100

Remarks              Grapefruit rind, lime, mineral, green apple skin, grassy flavours.

OSOYOOS LAROSE 2006, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price      $40.00

UPC       871610001554

Score     90/100

Remarks              Typically spicy with tobacco, coffee, black cherry, vanilla and liquorice.

JACKSON-TRIGGS SHIRAZ SUNROCK VINEYARD 2006, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price      $35.00

UPC       00063657013496

Score     92/100

Remarks              The fruit is bright and rich, the palate vibrant; the textures glossy.

LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS PORTFOLIO 2006, NARAMATA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Price      $38.90

UPC       8504510011060

Score     90/100

Remarks              Love the ripe black fruit and the savoury mint and the rich textures.

BURROWING OWL CABERNET FRANC 2006, OLIVER, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price      $33.00
UPC       626990005063
Score     90/100
Remarks              Smoky, cranberry, chocolate, pepper, orange peel, savoury red.