Making Fun With Chardonnay

Sauvignon blanc, riesling, viognier and lately gruner veltliner have all made substantial inroads especially with consumers looking for something different. But throughout the onslaught, chardonnay has still maintained its position as the No. 1 white wine in the world.

Just about the time the world is supposed to tired of drinking chardonnay, winemakers are delivering the most intensely flavoured, mouth-watering examples we have seen in decades.

Most of the change revolves around fruit that comes from cooler regions or at least the coolest sites in a warm region. By starting with higher acid levels and more intense fruit flavours, winemakers are less likely to end up with the flat, buttery, old-style chardonnay that contributed to the original ABC movement.

The new chardonnay continues to evolve. It's brighter, crisper, more food-friendly and, perhaps most importantly, fun to drink. Some, such as the wildly popular "yellow tail" may have too much residual sugar or sweetness for seasoned wine drinkers, but consumers clearly prefer its friendly, ripe, sweet finish.

This week, we look at three New World chardonnays including the new "yellow tail" release and a renegade viognier. For those who require a weekly red wine fix, we finish up with two hot picks -- one from Somontano, Spain, and the other from Mendoza, Argentina.

New Zealand chardonnay with its super cool Kiwi fruit may be the best-kept secret in the wine world. Retail wine buyers often ask themselves if they really need another chardonnay on the shelf and promptly answer no. In my view, that response could be a big mistake if the chardonnay comes from New Zealand.

The Brancott Vineyards Chardonnay 2002, grown at Gisborne, has an appealing ripe honey, peach nose streaked with butter, pineapple and vanilla. It's dry, round and elegant with more butter, lemon-rind, honey and spicy lees flavours. The finish is soft and dry with just a hint of butterscotch. A solid everyday chardonnay for the price.

The current runaway brand leader in B.C. is "yellow tail" and both the shiraz and the chardonnay are doing big numbers too. The bad news for the competition is that the Yellow Tail Chardonnay 2003 is even more appealing than the 2002. Look for a floral, warm butter, peach, melon aroma with some apple notes underneath. The entry is round and slightly sweet with baked, spiced apple, melon and citrus flavours. The '03 is better balanced and much fresher on the palate. Good value.

If you long for an affordable California chardonnay, check out the Esser Cellars Chardonnay 2002. Manfred Esser, long-time estate manager at Cuvaison, is out on his own making buttery, vanilla, cream-scented chardonnay that, while modern, tips its hat to the older, fuller, hedonistic-style California chardonnay. The texture is slightly oily with strong vanilla, butterscotch and baked apple and honey flavours. Good in intensity if somewhat old style. Another fine value.

The Moillard Viognier Huges le Juste 2001 comes out of the Languedoc in the south of France. It has the typical spicy, floral, meaty nose with honey, peach aromas and a touch of toast. The flavours are a mix of toasted butter, citrus, honey and peach flavours. It's a touch alcoholic in the finish, but a fine introduction to European viognier. Serious value.

The success of the "yellow tail" brand has inspired a great many imitators, but the problem with clever wine marketing is it only works if the wine tastes good.

LoTengo Malbec 2003, with its snappy three-dimensional holographic label featuring tango dancers (at least from the waist down), gets both right. Look for spicy, plum jam, smoky, bacon and savoury aromas with flavours of coffee, cedar and vanilla mixed with bacon notes and black cherry. Balanced and ready to go, this is a barbecue best bet for the spring and summer.

Somontano, an ancient Spanish contraction meaning "under the mountains," is an isolated, growing region near the Pyrenees, but its cool wines are turning heads worldwide.

The Vinas del Vero Merlot 2001 has a spicy, peppery tobacco leaf nose with smoky cedar highlights. It is dry and round on entry with light, cedar-y tannins and warm cherry, minty, tobacco, mocha flavours. It is a simple, varietal, ready-to-drink red that will be best with meat-based tapas or grilled meat items off the barbecue.

Weekend Wine Tasting:     Mixed Picks

Wine   Brancott Vineyards Chardonnay 2002, Gisborne, New Zealand
Price   $16.99
UPC    9414024524663
Score  14/20
Remarks       Vanilla, lemon rind, honey and spicy lees flavours.

Wine   Yellow Tail Chardonnay 2003, South Eastern Australia
Price   $12.99
UPC    839743000028
Score  14/20
Remarks       Baked spiced apple, melon, citrus flavours.

Wine   Esser Cellars Chardonnay 2002, California
Price   $15.89
UPC    11441220407
Score  14/20
Remarks       Butterscotch and baked apple flavours with honey.

Wine   Moillard Viognier Huges le Juste 2001, Languedoc, France
Price   $11.75
UPC    3180421087198
Score  14/20
Remarks       Good value introductory European viognier.

Wine   LoTengo Malbec 2003, Mendoza, Argentina
Price   $12.99
UPC    7792319676269
Score  15/20
Remarks       A balanced, ready-to-go barbecue red.

Wine   Viñas del Vero Merlot 2001, Somontano, Spain
Price   $13.49
UPC    8421293681004
Score  14/20
Remarks       Soft round cherry, minty, tobacco, mocha flavours.