Mad For French Wine

Sequestered in an undersized and overcrowded tasting room, France made a stand that would have made Napoleon proud. B.C. consumers, who largely ignore French wine most days of the year, could not seem to get enough of la folie Francaise, its appellations, the terroir.

And then there was the champagne -- oh, the champagne -- it was everywhere.

French highlights for this taster began on Monday night at West Restaurant, where chef David Hawksworth prepared a sensational pot au feu of squab with black winter truffle and porcini essence matched to Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 2001.

On Tuesday night at Cioppino's, chef Pino Posteraro counterpunched with a signature risotto, this time al Parmigiano, under braised beef short rib and served alongside Chateau La Garde Rouge 2002, from Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux. It was stunning.

Wednesday evening it was Bacchanalia at The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. The meal prepared for 450 people was a triumph for chef Robert LeCrom and team, but the piece de resistance was the Brome Lake duck, foie gras and lentils du Puy paired with Pere Anselme Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 La Fiole.

Thursday night, Earls at the Paramount theatre did what it is famous for -- over-delivering for the price. Jamaican jerk style oven-roasted boneless breast of chicken topped with fruit salsa and rosemary roasted potatoes was the foil to a delicious Louis Bernard Cote du Rhone Blanc.

Friday, high above the tasting room, French wine soared at the Pan Pacific's Five Sails Restaurant. The wine was Laroche 2002 Chablis 1er Cru, the dish, Japanese sea bream and Israeli couscous designed by exec chef Ernst Dorfler, prepared by restaurant chef Masa Mabuchi.

Saturday, Hy's Steak House, looking much like it did when French wine ruled Vancouver, delivered oysters on the half shell, a seamless match to a Moillard 2004 Hugues Le Juste Sauvignon Sur Lie ($12).

The finale came Sunday night at Blue Water Cafe, where chef Frank Pabst chose Arctic char braised butter lettuce with dungeness crab and a chervil beurre blanc to accompany Nicolas Feuillatte 1996 Cramant Grand Cru Champagne. The match was sublime.

France is back. All we need now is for some of them to return to market and more selective buying by retailers to refurbish a category that looks as if it's capable of fending off its formidable New World competitors. Forces some might say as formidable as the Austrian and Russian troops Napoleon split down the middle in 1805 before he routed them at Austerlitz.

What follows are just a few of the many highlights tasted last week in town.

Fresher than the '03 edition, the Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2004 is exuberant with clean spicy, mineral, nutty citrus butter fruit flavours. Love the balance and vivacity. If this is the New France, count me in. It's good value too.

To Germany, for screwcap star Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 2004. The nose is fresh and crisp with floral, green apple, chalky, citrus, Vaseline flavours. Love the finesse in a delicious, crisp, fresh style with fruit. A thoroughly modern German white.

New to B.C. and only in private wine shops is the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from the cool coastal Leyda Valley. Look for smoky canned asparagus and bell pepper notes mingled with grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. The mouth is much more intense and ripe than the herbal nose suggests. It's Leyda and it's a new, cool Chilean site you should get to know.

The Portuguese port booths were packed the entire show but it was the dry wines that were creating a fuss. Quinta Vale do Maria Douro 2003 is Cristiano Van Zeller's calling card and it's as imposing in the glass as he is in person. Expect a rich, concentrated red with fine acidity and spicy, vanilla, cherry/plum, clove, licorice, chocolate and orange peel flavours. Bring on the meat.

Antinori Tignanello 2001 is an Italian icon and as such is expected to deliver every year. Certainly this svelte 2001, with its tobacco, black olive, coriander nose and smoky black cherry jam, olive, chocolate flavours, makes a strong case. It needs another five years in bottle to smooth out but this original Super Tuscan, mostly sangiovese with about 15 per cent cabernet, is well worth the investment.

Sweet sippers should head for the Penfolds Grandfather Fine Old Tawny. This orange coloured wine with the spicy, buttery, raisin and walnut nose is fresh in the glass. Love the orange peel, buttery, cigar, raisin and coffee flavours and it is not too fat or sweet in the finish. Fine Australian tawny style that will keep for days in the bottle once opened. Bravo.

LOUIS BERNARD COTES DU RHONE BLANC, SOUTHERN RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price: $14.99
UPC: 604174000974
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Love the balance and vivacity. Well done.

BALTHASAR RESS RIESLING KABINETT 2004, RHEINGAU, GERMANY
Price: $15.99
UPC: 018847101336
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A thoroughly modern white for modern times.

AMAYNA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004, LEYDA VALLEY, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE
Price: $29.65 private wine shops only
UPC: 7804605830047
Score: 90/100
Remarks: It's Leyda and it's a new cool site you need to get to know.

QUINTA VALE DO MARIA DOURO VINHO TINTO DOURO 2003, NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Price: $30.90
UPC: 5606545120019
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Enticing licorice, chocolate and orange peel flavours.

ANTINORI TIGNANELLO 2001, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $85.99
UPC: 8001935124504
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Tignanello is the original Super Tuscan and this is why.

PENFOLDS GRANDFATHER FINE OLD TAWNY PORT, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $84
UPC: 12354071544
Score: 94/100
Remarks: Not too fat or sweet with good acidity. Bravo.