Macon Blanc

That's what makes them so confusing to us New World wine drinkers who seem to take more comfort in knowing which grape we are drinking rather than where it is grown. Understand that, in Europe's Old World vineyards, there is an incredible array of appellations making a wine's origin the key to determining its status. Yet, even though the source of the wine is marked clearly on the label, (e.g. Bordeaux, Burgundy or Chablis) it is left to consumers to know something about the appellation. That is if they want to know (and I think most do) which grapes are in the wine. As I said, the labels are both precise and vague. A good example is today's tasting of Macon-Villages wines. Macon is the name used for red or white wine that originates from the Maconnais region of France. That's precise information but not all that helpful unless one knows the Maconnais region is situated in southern Burgundy and under the appellation laws of the region, white Burgundy is almost always made with chardonnay. In the Maconnais region, there are 43 villages that grow grapes and each is entitled to sell its wine under the individual village name. Thankfully, most prefer to use a moniker from a much shorter list of well-known regional appellations which include: Macon, Macon Superieur, Macon-Villages, Pouilly-Fuisse, Pouilly-Loche, Pouilly-Vinzelles, and Saint Veran. For the purposes of today's column, Macon-Villages has our attention. If you haven't noticed, this unpretentious but food-friendly, French chardonnay is experiencing a renaissance in B.C. liquor stores. What's more, the new Macon-Villages tastes considerably better than the thin, acidic, cardboard-flavoured whites that used to come to B.C. before California, and the rest of the New World, revolutionized the style of chardonnay. None of the today's picks has the fruit, oak and heft associated with New World chardonnay, nor do they possess the complexity of great white Burgundy. Yet, on its own, with a simply prepared, lightly spiced, seafood dish and some engaging conversation, Macon-Villages is category of wine worth getting to know. We begin with the moderately priced Chateau du Fief from Loron. Look for a light, mineral, fruity, apple/floral character on the nose with some hints of toast too. It is surprisingly soft and round on the palate with mineral, lees and green apple fruit in the finish. Expect an attractive, straight up, delicate white wine for current consumption. The Mommessin Vieilles Vignes or "old vines" has an odd nose of vanilla and bruised apples. The texture is smooth and rich, especially on entry, but the level of fruit is low. Full-bodied and moderately complex, the style is dry with mineral, toasty, earthy flavours. Macon-Verze is a single village wine from the Macon-Village zone. I like this wine, although its sweaty, grassy nose could be interpreted as funky. The fruit has an apple, floral bent with a leesy, citrus, mineral butter streak that runs through the wine. Halibut and fruit salsa would be a fine food match. There's fine value here. All the '97s have a riper aroma. The Chanson has quite an attractive nose mixing earth, mineral and green apple with some floral hints. It is round and soft on entry but it has some length and weight in the finish. It is well balanced with plenty of mineral flavours but a touch dry in the finish. The Bouchard Pere has a much riper, almost "New World" chardonnay character on the nose. Things change in the mouth where it's drier and leaner than it smells and it shows more of the typical Macon mineral, earth and butter in the mouth. Good effort but another wine that needs drinking. The final chardonnay is the Chameroy from Louis Latour. The nose has a whiff of pickle brine up front; otherwise it resembles the group and the appellation with plenty of lees (toast), earth and citrus notes. It has the best mouthfeel of the group with rich flavours but finishes dry. Best served with creamy seafood dishes. Macon-Blanc-Villages, Maconnais, France Producer: Loron Chateau du Fief 1999 Price: $15.95 Stock No.: 571877 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Good value, everyday Macon. Producer: Mommessin 1998 Vieilles Vignes Price: $16.95 Stock No.: 542613 Score: 13/20 Comments: Dry mineral, earthy flavours. Producer: Cave de Prisse 1998 Macon-Verze Price: $17.50 Stock No.: 574012 Score: 14/20 Comments: Clean grassy, citrus fruit seafood wine. Producer: Chanson Pere & Fils 1997 Price: $17.95 Stock No.: 309781 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Crisp floral/green apple white. Producer: Bouchard Pere & Fils 1997 Price: $18.95 Stock No.: 378836 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Melons apples and minerals. Producer: Louis Latour 1997 Chameroy Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 188813 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Big firm dry perfect with shellfish.