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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Today, a few thoughts on wine prices for 2010, beginning with the No.

Low Prices and High Scores

1 question in the business: How much are you, the consumer, prepared to pay for wine on a regular basis? And when will restaurants return to buying wine and beef up inventories?

 

If you have not noticed, wine prices are about as soft as they have been since the early 1990s, and while much of the damage has been wreaked upon wine over $20, no price sector has been left untouched. In Napa Valley, where the toney wineries are loathe to discount a single bottle, tumbling sales have sparked widespread discounting. The big panic is what the long-term effect of discounting will have on prices in the future. Will consumers ever consider paying top dollar for the same wines again?

 

Compounding that problem is a whole sector of consumers who, after moving down in price some $10 to $20 per bottle, are discovering to their surprise (and taste) that many $15 and $20 bottles are as good as anything selling for twice the price. This revelation is one most feared by wineries whose economic model is built on selling premium $40 bottles of wine. The Okanagan comes to mind. There isn't much wiggle room for new wineries to drop their prices.

 

The good news for consumers, at least this winter, is import prices will continue to drop as local agents and government buyers try to shed inventory. You would be smart to stop by your local wine shop twice a week to browse the shelves and look for bargains. In B.C., that likely means a dollar or two on popular wines, but in some cases it is that last dollar off that makes it good value.

 

The only caveat I have is to watch out for old vintages of white wine. They were slow movers before the recession, suggesting their best before date is expiring, especially those under cork.

 

I've been searching my database at gismondionwine.com for low prices and high scores and came up with today's short list to kick off the new year. It is an impressive list and I should add that many prices are lower than what they were when I reviewed the wine only a few weeks ago. It definitely pays to search online or physically go into stores to look for the mark downs.

 

Oddly, government liquor stores never share any news publicly about sales with wine writers, so your only recourse is to be in stores regularly or to check online if you have the time. Now to the first bargains of 2010.

 

We begin with a wine you will find under the new releases sign in B.C. Liquor Stores. Longue-Dog Grenache Syrah 2008 is another clever play on words, (think southern France: Languedoc) from Paul Boutinot of the equally clever Chat-en-Oeuf fame. Look for a fresh floral peppery nose with a round, supple palate. Love the full black cherry, raspberry, spicy meaty flavours and the overall balance and finish. A fresh, fruity southern French red listed at a very affordable $13 per bottle.

 

White wine fans should check out the Lulu B Chardonnay 2007. Limoux sits along the western edge of the Languedoc and is the source of fruit here. Some 85 per cent of this white is stainless steel fermented, resulting in a nutty, mineral, peachy scented chardonnay that tastes like it smells. Honey and citrus butter streak its creamy finish. Good value and it is sealed under screwcap.

 

Still in the south of France, it is hard to pass up the Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge 2007. The Villages designation at $16, and the great vintage 2007 is hard to pass on for a mid-week red. Look for pepper, black cherry, licorice and underbrush notes on the nose and palate. The grenache lends it a soft, fleshy texture that leaves the finish long and smooth. Good value.

 

Decent, inexpensive pinot noir is never easy to find, some would say impossible. Try the Santa Carolina Reserva Pinot Noir 2008 from Maule, Chile. It's a bit of a Cono Sur look-alike with bright, if slightly herbal pinot fruit with raspberry/cherry aromas and dry earthy undertones. The entry is soft and supple as it slides down easily. Fine varietal character for $12 and you can drink it now.

 

Southern Italy is the home of Tormaresca Paiara Negroamaro -- Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. This Apulia-based wine is a part of the Antinori Empire. Well-tended vineyards and new winery have upped the ante here. Expect a fresh, smooth palate with a touch of sweetness on entry and licorice root, black cherry, earthy, dried herb and tobacco flavours. Another solid bet for $9.

 

Finally the Lulu B Shiraz 2006, from the Languedoc returns with a cleaner, dry, peppery nose. The mid-palate has dense, dry texture flecked with plum fruit flavours. Simple, well-made Euro syrah. Keep this handy around the barbecue.

 

Look for all of these prices to jump up if and when the wine business gets back on track.

 


 

Lulu B Chardonnay 2007, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price: $13

UPC: 604174001704

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Honey and citrus sealed under screw cap.

 

Longue-Dog Grenache Syrah 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price: $13

UPC: 3430560002447

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A simple, fresh, fruity southern French red at a very affordable price.

 

Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Villages Rouge 2007, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $16

UPC: 604174000271

Score: 88/100

Remarks: The core Grenache fruit is bright soft and fleshy. Great dinner wine.

 

Santa Carolina Reserva Pinot Noir 2008, Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price: $12

UPC: 007804350599626

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fine varietal character for the money, and you can drink it now.

 

Tormaresca Paiara Negroamaro -- Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Apulia, Italy

Price: $9

UPC: 8026530000336

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Solid red wine for a measly $9. Good value.

 

Lulu B Shiraz 2006, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price: $13

UPC: 604174001711

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Simple, well-made and more Euro, keep this handy around the barbecue.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.