Lounging in the d'Oc

The bizarre system of wine classification in France has been under review since 2006 and plans are to roll out the completed changes by 2012. The new system consists of three major classifications or categories.

Vin de France, a table wine category, will replace the old Vin de Table but with a nod to an ever-changing wine world, it will allow producers to indicate a grape variety and vintage on the label. Indication Géographique Protégée or (IGP) is the next level essentially replacing Vin de Pays, while Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) is the new height of French wine replacing AOC wines.

The biggest changes will be at the lower end where the old Vin de France and Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) wines will either need to qualify as AOP wines or be downgraded to an IGP category. Former AOC wines will simply be tagged AOP, but the actual names of the appellations themselves will remain unchanged.

In the case of the Languedoc region, the base of the pyramid will be Pays d'Oc IGP wines with some 33 grape varieties authorized for use. IGP wines will be sourced from producers and cooperatives in the broadest departments: the Gard, Hérault, Aude and the Eastern-Pyrénées.

The next step up the quality ladder is Languedoc AOC, or soon to be AOP, which will cover all the appellation growing zones from Nimes to the eastern-Pyrénées. A stricter number of grapes are authorized for use and a certain percentage of the very best varieties must be used. Grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault and carignan are the red and rosé approved grapes, while the whites are limited to grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc, viognier, picpoul, marsanne, roussanne vermentino and ugni blanc.

Above this category, regional appellations such as Corbières, St-Chinian, Minervois, Pic St Loup. La Clape and more can be attached to the Languedoc moniker on the label. Finally, a system of grand vins and grand cru will be used to identify the very highest level of wines made in the Languedoc. I'm not sure the system is any easier to navigate for consumers but the work behind the regulations is having a big impact on the region's ability to raise quality.

This month government liquor stores are promoting Languedoc wines with a large number of selections on display in more than 60 stores. It's a refreshing campaign focused on individual wines and producers, all of whom have something excellent to offer for the price. We focus on six picks today but complete reviews based on the in-store brochure you can pick up are available at www.gismondionwine.com.

We begin with the Pavillon Arnaud Minervois 2008, a syrah/grenache blend with an attractive spicy, licorice nose flecked with black cherry, floral, rooty, clove and cardamom aromas. Look for a full, fresh palate, ripe tannins and black raspberry, plum, licorice, orange peel flavours. There is great fruit intensity here and it will pair well with pork or turkey dishes. What a steal at $14.

The Mont Tauch Fitou Growers Reserve 2008 mixes carignan, grenache and syrah from Fitou. Expect a meaty, peppery, warm savoury, spicy/cherry nose and a dry, warm, slightly tannic palate. The flavours mix cherry, licorice, tobacco, orange and five spices that all finish fresh. A classic barbecue red.

From a leading estate in Le Clape, formerly owned by the grandfather of the famous painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Chateau Pech-Céleyran Cinquième Génération 2009 Blanc has been in the de Saint Exupéry family for four generations. Look for a relatively lean style with crisp notes of peach and cherry all with a dusting of oak. A well-structured, serious dinner wine whose hints of garrigue would be perfect with roast chicken, served warm or cold.

We are crazy about M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut 2009, a Côtes du Roussillon blend of syrah, grenache and carignan. Expect an intense peppery, black licorice, black plum, smoky nose with a bright floral undercurrent. The palate is dry but full with good acidity and plenty of black plum, dark chocolate, meaty, peppery, earthy, spicy flavours. Serve with rabbit or lamb, or keep a year or two in the cellar. Again, crazy value at $15.

From Minervois Chateau de Serame 2007 is a delicious blend of 50 per cent mourvèdre, 38 per cent grenache noir and 12 per cent carignan offering up smoky, meaty, black cherry, chocolate fruit with a dollop of black licorice. The attack is round and supple. It is rich, yet elegant with a floral, black cherry, peppery finish. Excellent value and ready to drink.

Finally, at 90 hectares Les Clos de Paulilles is the largest vineyard in the Collioure/Banyuls appellation pushed up against the Spanish border. The steeply terraced site is planted to syrah, mourvèdre and grenache noir. Not all Languedoc wine is inexpensive but Les Clos de Paulilles 2007 over delivers at $35 with it spicy minerality and powerful savoury, black fruit aromas. The slate soil seems to sharpen and clarify its bright, black fruit, cinnamon, coffee, licorice underbelly and mineral vanilla finish. Sophisticated long and yet it is still a baby, this is one you can confidently cellar or serve now with a big juicy T-bone steak.

Pavillon Arnaud Minervois 2008, Languedoc, France

Price: $14

UPC: 003045710019253

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Great fruit intensity and freshness. Pair with pork or turkey dishes. Solid value.

Mont Tauch Fitou Growers Reserve 2008, Languedoc, France

Price: $15

UPC: 003288841029504

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Cherry, licorice, meaty, leather, tobacco, orange and five spice flavours.

Château Pech-Céleyran Cinquième Génération 2009, La Clape, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

Price: $20

UPC: 3399481164125

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Crisp notes of peach and cherry all with a dusting of oak. A serious dinner wine.

M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut 2009, Côtes du Roussillon, France

Price: $15

UPC: 03391181390439

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Black plum, dark chocolate, meaty, peppery, earthy, spicy flavours.

Château de Serame 2007, Minervois, Languedoc, France

Price: $26

UPC: 003258691335377

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Rich yet elegant with a floral, black cherry, peppery finish. Excellent value.

Les Clos de Paulilles Syrah - Mourvèdre 2007, Côte Vermeille, Roussillon, France

Price: $35

UPC: 003119460019969

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Bright, black fruit, cinnamon, coffee, licorice; a sophisticated red for dinner.