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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Will 2014 be a great year for wine in British Columbia?

Only time will tell but, as usual, consumers will play a big part in the outcome. Not to put too fine a point on it, but a lot hinges on the outcome of the B.C. Liquor Policy Review.

 

There have been a few crumbs tossed to the loudest lobbies but nothing yet to the silent majority. If you want a vibrant wine market in B.C., including the long-term survival of the local producers, make sure your MLA knows you want a new deal for wine, beer and spirits. An open market, with wholesale pricing and a flat tax levied on all liquor when it is imported, or created locally, would be a great start.

If everybody paid a flat tax, we might finally see the real size of the liquor market and find out that the tax required to meet the same level of money heading to government coffers could be much less and far easier to justify to all concerned.

 

After that let's put an end to the government selecting what we drink. No more listing applications, no product rejections, just a quick approval to issue a government number to collect a fair tax and let the market decide what they want to buy. This would create a flood of new products, more competition and better pricing. Wine, beer or spirit selections could then be sold by distributors to all retail outlets, government and private wine shops, which, in turn, could resell whatever they wished to the public and trade including restaurants, clubs and bars. Free trade driven by demand.

 

The decision to buy or sell anything would be made by a wide array of buyers and store managers according to needs of their customers. This scenario only works if everyone pays tax on every drink. This should lead to a thriving market fuelled by the ambition of retailers and the enthusiasm of buyers. Lower taxes and more selection would lead to competitive prices and given the ease with which products could enter the market we would avoid the current scenario where it seems only government, in concert with large commercial suppliers, control which new products get listed and sold in all the prime liquor outlets.

 

Local producers who claim they can't compete with foreign producers due to offshore subsidies could then make their case to the provincial government for equal support. If a business decision was made to subsidize local wineries, artisan beer and spirit producers, U-Vin and U-brews - under the guise of creating local jobs and wealth - then the money should come from all British Columbians rather than those who simply enjoy a glass of ridiculously priced imported wine.

 

All current liquor laws that inhibit local producers from competing in the market should be abolished. Direct sales, off-site tasting rooms and stalls at local farmer markets are fine but the real elephant in the room is interprovincial wine sales. All Canadian wineries need immediate access to every Canadian province and territory as granted by the federal government.

 

There's much more, although a lot of what makes no sense would go away if the tax field was levelled. After all, wasn't that the plan with original FTA in 1989, yet 25 years later we are no closer to an open liquor market.

 

I guess it only makes this space more valuable going forward. With so much overpriced wine in B.C. we will continue to taste hundreds of bottles a month to serve up the best six values you can buy every Saturday.

 

If you missed the launch of The Sun Wine Critic over the holidays, our mobile-optimized wine site is up-and-running at www.sunwinecritic. com. Sign up for our weekly alerts and you can access all our picks inside your favourite wine shop: http://www.sunwinecritic.com/subscribe/

 


 

Finca Los Primos Torrontés 2012, San Rafael, General Alvear, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $11 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 07790703000065

Honey, ginger and baked pear mix with nectarine aromas and fresh, juicy off-dry fruit flecked with honey, lemon rind and apple skin flavours. Much better than last edition and very good value too. Try this with spicy sushi.

 

De Bortoli DB Traminer Riesling Family Selection Traminer -- Riesling 2012, Australia

Price: $12 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 9300752030463

Floral, ginger and light lychee fruit add to the fresh, juicy style of this elegant white. It is a touch on the sweet side with more lychee, baked apple, honey and citrus flavours. A simple, fresh, juicy wine for spicy food that offers great value.

 

Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay 2012, South Eastern Australia

Price: $12 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 012354081840

You can't really expect more than you get here for $13. The style is fresh and perfectly leaned out for food with light aromatic peach and citrus notes. There's a touch of butter to smooth out its fresh peach and light lemon and lees flavours. A touch watery (juicy), in a good way, in the finish.

 

Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Unwooded Chardonnay 2011, South Australia

Price: $13 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 9311910102250

Under a screwcap and made without any oak, Weighbridge attacks right off the top. Look for bright, lively green fruit nuance with a touch of grass and figs. Skinny, tight and linear with a wealth of citrus this wine is perfect for most shellfish dishes. Good value.

 

Castillo de Monséran Garnacha 2012, Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

Price: $10 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 3378630306227

The 2012 arrives under a screwcap no small change for any Spanish winery. The attack is juicy, the fruit raw showing a bit more acidity than past editions with the same peppery, black raspberry earthy fruit flavours. A solid pizza/pasta/chicken red now much easier to access under screwcap.

 

Finca Los Primos Syrah 2012, San Rafael, General Alvear, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $12 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 7790703168000

Full marks for its Syrah character and black cherry jam, licorice, savoury, meaty nose. The attack is slightly lean and light with meaty, peppery, black cherry, rooty, licorice and tobacco flavours. Fun, juicy style with light tannins to match most grilled meats. Solid value.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.