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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

You get plenty of feedback from readers when you write a wine column.

Some of my favourites include: "You look younger than your picture." Or "you are much better looking in person," or how about, "you are not what I was expecting at all."

Most of what I hear is about the product and as you might, expect everyone in B.C. has an opinion about wine and they aren't afraid to express it.

As it stands some of the people who sell wine think I write too much about cheap wines, too much about the New World, too little about France and Italy and never enough about B.C. My favourite whine is, why don't you write about the wines I sell?

There is another group who think the wines I write about are too expensive, that I'm partial to European wine, that I write too much about B.C. wine and what does it matter because they can never find any of the wines I recommend in government stores. Like I said everybody has an opinion and frankly I wouldn't have it any other way.

Just for fun I took another look at my 2003 reviews to date (20 columns and 122 wines) and the results as diverse as the market. The most expensive wine reviewed sold for $47.95; the least expensive cashed out at $9.99. Fifty per cent of all the wines reviewed list for less than $16.

Twelve countries, countless regions and nearly 70 producers have appeared on these pages since January and more than 90 per cent of all the wines reviewed were available in government liquor stores.

Some 12 per cent of all the wines tasted came out of B.C. and as for New World versus Old World argument -- 33 per cent of the wines featured came from the Old World most of those sold for less than $20.

As we head into the long weekend, we continue with an eclectic six pack from six countries. Each is favourably priced, especially if you are planning on entertaining large groups this long weekend. Here are my picks:

Earlier this year I visited the vineyards of Somontano, Spain where I tasted the Viñas del Vero Chardonnay 2001. You'll like the smoky, mineral lees and nectarine nose and the citrus flavour that runs through its fruit cocktail aftertaste. This is well made medium-bodied chardonnay that would work well with a variety of West Coast seafood.

Australia's publicly traded Southcorp Wines (Penfolds, Lindemans, Rosemount, and Wynns) has been gored by financial analysts of late much to the delight if its competitors. Ironically, the fall of Penfolds has nothing to do with the quality its wines but it has resulted in lower prices for consumers.

This weekend you can by the highly recommended Penfolds 2001 Koonunga Hill Chardonnay, South Australia for only $12.95. The Koonunga Hill chardonnay is sourced from multiple districts with significant contributions from McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills. The nose is open with bright, white peach aromas and toast. The flavours are a mix of green apple and melon fruit that finish with creamy textures and a whiff of butterscotch. You simply can't beat the price. There no wine in California or B.C for that matter that can match this label for quality and volume.

Portugal is our next stop and Terra da Lobos 2001 is the perfect red for the barbecue. Look for spicy cherry jam with a touch of gamy, herbal notes. Soft and round on entry this red has fine mid-palate cherry berry fruit. Its dry, earthy finish makes it perfect for grilled foods. Good value.

Earlier this year I mentioned the Deen De Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz 2000, showed well in a new release but we couldn't get a bottle to photograph. It's in stores now and you'll be impressed with its intense spicy, peppery, black berry jam nose streaked with saddle leather. Smoky, leather, spicy, peppery, blackberry flavours permeate what is a sound wine and one that is ready to drink.

The French are up in arms about a South African red wine made in the Côtes du Rhone style that is labelled Goats do Roam 2002. It's produced by the clever Fairview Estate people who are not only well-known for their wines but they also own goats and make several outstanding cheeses on the property.

Goats du Roam has a rich fruity, meaty, licorice and plum jam nose with a dash of briny tobacco. The entry is smooth soft and fleshy with additional spicy black cherry/licorice flavours. The finish is long with just a dusting of tannins in the background. Best of all when it is compared to its Côte du Rhone counterparts it's particularly good value.

Finally a delightful B.C. sipping white might be all you need this weekend and I'm pleased recommend the Quails' Gate Chenin Blanc Limited Release 2001. The nose is fresh and crisp offering up tart, citrus, lime rind aromas and flavours. It's reasonably ripe with some sweet fruit and a refreshing finish. A fun summer sipper that should be served well chilled and used liberally on the patio.

Weekend Wine Tasting

Wine: Viñas del Vero Chardonnay 2001, Somontano, Aragon, Spain
Price: $13.99
UPC: 8421293121005
Score: 14/20
Comments: Smoky mineral lees, nectarine and citrus flavours.

Wine: Penfolds 2001 Koonunga Hill Chardonnay, South Australia
Price: $12.95
UPC: 12354071339
Score: 15/20
Comments: White peach green apple and melon fruit with creamy textures.

Wine: Terra da Lobos 2001, Ribatejo, Portugal
Price: $11.95
UPC: 5602424000045
Score: 14/20
Comments: Fun well-priced red; use liberally around the barbecue.

Wine: Deen De Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz 2000 Riverina, NSW, Australia
Price: $16.45
UPC: 9300752010366
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Smoky, leather, spicy, peppery, blackberry barbecue red.

Wine: Goats do Roam 2002, South Africa
Price: $14.95
UPC: 6002291000435
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Spicy black cherry/licorice flavours. Good value.

Wine: Quails' Gate Chenin Blanc Limited Release 2001, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99
UPC: 778856101003
Score: 14/20
Comments: A fun summer sipper; served well chilled

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.