Local Wines Favoured in Vancouver Restaurants

It would be extremely naive to assume that every wine placed on a wine list is there because it deserves to be there. Quality and value are noble words but they often have precious little to do with a wine's position on any wine list. In a recent study by the American Association of Wine Economists the question they asked was: Do Restaurants Cater to Locapours (people who drink local wines)? Using Zagat data they tried to examine the factors that influence wine list selections.

There are many parallels between this study and British Columbia, beginning with an increased in interest in local foods among final consumers, in this case in New York state. Added to that there has been a rise in offerings of local products in restaurants. They chose local wine because it was easily identified and because it "is clearly labelled on the menu and because there is a burgeoning wine industry in New York state."

Quoting myriad of studies the authors suggest consumers are increasingly interested in purchasing local foods, perceiving they have benefits to human health, the environment, and the economies in local communities. I might add that tourists are likely the single biggest factor affecting B.C. restaurant sales.

One stop in a wine country restaurant in Italy, France, Chile or Australia will illustrate that clearly tourists want to drink the local wines, and when you think about it, why wouldn't they? Nobody is touring Tuscany hoping to drink a bottle of Napa Valley cabernet.

But the study in New York points to other interesting factors. Using data for 1,401 restaurants, their econometric results indicate, "That decor ratings, cuisine styles, certain wine list characteristics and distance to wine regions have a statistically significant impact on the likelihood of New York State restaurants serving local wine."

Overall, the results indicate that restaurants' decisions to include local wines on their menus increased with higher decor scores and cuisine that is categorized as New American.

Restaurants featuring natural/organic foods pointed to higher counts of domestic wines especially white wines. The presence of local wines decreased with the number of red wine offered on the menu.

Eighteen pages into the report, researchers summarized several important implications for wineries in New York and other nascent wine production regions. They suggested decor is an "indicator for ambience and attention to detail, and interpret this to be the reason these restaurants are more likely to place local wines on their menu."

Cuisine type also appears to play a large role in restaurants' decisions to include local wines on their menu. Results suggest that restaurants with European or Asian cuisine styles in New York state may be less receptive to local wines although that's likely less of a factor in B.C.

Restaurants that include more white wine in general, or more domestic wines overall, appear to be more likely to include local wine on their menu. Also restaurants located in Long Island (the predominant region of red wine production) are more likely to list local red wines on their menu, yet restaurants located in other regions of the state did not exhibit any preferences for New York reds. This suggests that the location of restaurant matters, but that the "local" effect is quite focused geographically and does not transcend across a large state like New York.

The report finishes with the suggestion that "demand for local products by restaurant owners which represent a group of intermediate consumers is often overlooked in the agricultural economics literature, yet they are engaged in a substantial amount of food and beverage purchases in the United States."

So now we know, with some rigour, that restaurants matter to local wines. Hardly a revelation to us in B.C., but it an excellent message for local producers that perhaps if you can make it there, you can make it anywhere. It's up to you Okanagan ... Okanagan.

Chartron La Fleur Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Bordeaux, France

Price: $15 | Score 86/100

UPC: 3263070031559

An introductory style Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc that is what it should be. Affordable, tasty, well-made and fun to drink, especially with shellfish or even chicken salad. The nose is bright with fresh grassy, mineral, floral, undertones a touch of ripe apple fruit.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2012, South Australia

Price: $18

UPC: 9311789475974

The nose jumps from the glass with ginger, crushed nectarine, orange peel and mango that all spills onto the palate. The attack is full flavoured but refreshing intense mango, lime rind marmalade and tropical flavours everywhere.

Jacob's Creek Moscato 2012, South Eastern Australia

Price: $11 | Score 86/100

UPC: 9300727013187

It has an attractive floral, nectarine, lime, minty, peach nose. The attack is fresh and juicy with a dash of spritz. The palate is sweet with honey, green apple, nectarine, ginger and licorice notes. At eight per cent alcohol you can sip this all night on the patio.

Santa Cristina Sangiovese Toscana 2011, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $17 | Score 86/100

UPC: 08001935361404

Fresh, juicy, soft-style Tuscan red that is predominately Sangiovese with some Merlot and Cabernet mixed in. The attack is peppery with licorice, savoury, plum floral black olive fruit and a long supple finish. A touch ripe for Tuscany, but that will add to its appeal.

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2010, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price: $15 | Score 87/100

UPC: 089419007152

Open rich sappy, cassis/menthol/bay leaf with earthy, chocolate aromas. The attack is dry and fresh and the tannins light with black currant, tobacco, dill, cedar, coffee smoky notes.

Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2011, Tasmania, South Australia

Price: $30 | Score 89/100

UPC: 9339091001865

Tasmanian Pinot is cool -- carrot top, celery salt, spicy and strawberry jam. The attack is dry, fresh and smooth on the palate with strawberry, licorice, savoury, celery salt, tobacco and coffee flavours. Food friendly and made with restraint.