Local Wine Is Never Cheap or is That Inexpensive

It seems consumers are balking at the price of B.C. wine in general and high-priced "trophy" wines are not moving at all. Local wine has had a good run for more than a decade, so in many ways it's likely just a correction, albeit a much needed one that we have already seen in foreign markets.

The difference is, under the monopoly system, consumers are normally sheltered from price swings up or down. Think about it, the Euro and the American dollar have been in the dumper for a while but we are not seeing any fire sale pricing in B.C. Local wines trade mostly outside of this system. So while they are positioned for success thanks to some fortuitous tax advantages, the model only works if the import market is strong and prices relative to B.C. are high. Neither of those factors have been in play for some time.

It's hardly breaking news that British Columbia wine is overpriced. B.C. wine is supposed to be a niche business. There was never an economic model for cheap wines even if the owner is prepared to buy a lifestyle and work at their winery 24/7 as some do with grace and aplomb.

Restaurants helped to stem the tide early on by demanding so-called local "trophy" wines or "cult" bottles that in many cases were more famous for their lack of production than intrinsic quality. The big attraction was its high price that allowed restaurants to offer tourists something local that could be hyped and generously marked-up.

The model worked well for the first dozen or so high-priced bottles in a strong economy but now there are scores of them and their production is equally hefty, meaning competition is fierce.

As an aside, with each new signature label the rest of the winery's output tends to suffer because, frankly, there isn't enough good stuff to go around. It's a delicate dance.

Add to that the recession and new tougher drink and drive laws, and you have a perfect storm to assail B.C. wines prices. If overpriced seems too harsh a word then think uneconomic.

Most of the wine sold in the world sells for less than $25 a bottle, and the vast majority is under the $15 mark which is why local wineries need to produce less but better wine and try to at least make a go of it in the $15 to $25 range for all but a handful of super labels.

We will never be able to take on Chile or France or Italy or Australia at the bottom end, so let's stop trying now. We need microscopically defined appellations, much better science, better vineyard management, better winemaking, and better marketing.

If we are going to survive in the new wine economy, more collaboration between industry players is needed. It is all doable with a little cooperation and leadership and a lot of forward thinking.

This week I am choosing three local wines and three imports you can try side by side. This should clear up any misapprehensions about whether we can produce fine wine in B.C. The trick is to make sure everyone is reaching or exceeding this standard; if they do, British Columbia wine will be fine.

The latest Pentâge Winery Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon 2008 mixes roughly twothirds sauvignon blanc with Sémillon projecting a fresh grassy, citrus, nettle nose. The attack is equally fresh and round with gooseberry, guava and tropical fruit notes throughout with bits of mint and spice in the back end. A great match for seafood.

Poggiotondo Toscana Bianco 2010 is an interesting study for B.C. drinkers given its owner and viticulturalist Alberto Antonini is working in Summerland at Okanagan Crush Pad. The 40/30/30 blend of vermentino, ansonica and malvasia works with no oak to reveal the chalky calcium makeup of the vineyard.

Try this with shellfish and seafood pasta dishes, and enjoy the freshness and aromatics at work. It's amazing for the price.

The Cassini Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2010 shouts Golden Mile and, as such, is definitely a warmer, riper style. Look for a grassy nettle, crisp, ripe, candied lemon flavours, tropical fruits with notes of pear and white pepper. Served well-chilled with your favourite Pan-Asian noodle dishes.

Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010 delivers intense gooseberry and grass on the nose with green fruit and asparagus undercurrents. A terrific style with finesse and elegance and intensity. Oysters, clams and or mussels are the ticket here.

Speaking of competing, try to get your hands on a bottle of Quails' Gate Pinot Noir Dijon Clone Selection 2008. This is no trophy wine, but rather the result of 20 years of searching for the holy Pinot grail. The attack is dry, fresh and supple with strawberry, smoky, herbal, rhubarb, tobacco and minty, vanilla flavours. Good finesse with fresh acidity and a juicy note. Best if decanted for about 15 minutes. Duck confit would be a perfect match.

Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2009 is a softer, warmer-style Pinot with peppery, vanilla, chocolate cherry, strawberry and cocoa flavours. It has fine fruit and balance in a consumer-friendly, ready to drink style.

ANTHONY GISMONDI

Pentâge Winery Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon 2008, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $20 winery direct, private wine shops

UPC: n/a

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Gooseberry, guava and tropical fruit throughout; a great seafood match.

Poggiotondo Toscana Bianco 2010, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $17

UPC: 008032927130104

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Enjoy with shellfish and light seafood pasta dishes; amazing for the price.

Cassini Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $19

UPC: 00626990115731

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Served well-chilled with your favourite Pan-Asian noodle dishes.

Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $14

UPC: 083300097604

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A terrific style that has finesse, elegance and intensity.

Quails' Gate Pinot Noir Dijon Clone Selection 2008, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $55

UPC: 778856208429

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Good finesse with fresh acidity and a juicy note. Match with duck confit.

Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2009, Monterey - Santa Barbara - Sonoma, Calif., United States

Price: $28

UPC: 00855622000231

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Good fruit and balance in a consumer-friendly style ready to drink.

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