Local Riesling is Shaping Up

In my estimation, white wine has never tasted better and I for one will spend this summer much the same as the last, trying to convince friends and acquaintances they should drink more white wine.

Much of what I drink will be local, because cool, fresh, clean white wine is something we do exceedingly well in B.C. The best news of all is that as a category, B.C. whites remain one of the true bargains in local wine shops.

Today I've chosen a half-dozen riesling to look at, but you could choose from an even wider array of wines made from ehrenfelser, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, gewurztraminer, un-oaked chardonnay and more.

When you think about it, if any city could be designated a riesling zone, Vancouver would have to be on any top-five list. Our pan-Asian cuisine featuring Indian, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese selections and the diverse range of spicing play right into the hand of riesling. So too does a wide variety of our local seafood and shellfish.

Once you get by the no-vanilla nose, you will discover there is life after oak and with riesling that is highlighted by mineral, citrus, peachy slate flavours, crisp acidity and, better yet, low alcohol. Don't forget, the spicier the food, the sweeter the riesling can be -- the pairing possibilities are endless.

If you require any more prodding to sip a British Columbia white this month, consider that VQA producers are promoting their 100-per-cent B.C. origins throughout July in beer and wine outlets across the province. The "Explore BC" campaign will focus on hand-crafted local drinks and offer customers a chance to win a trip for two to the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino. Look for details in participating stores.

We begin with Gehringer Brothers Riesling Classic 2004, simply a great value. It's all you can handle for $12.49 with its light floral, peachy mineral aromas. It is refreshing on the palate with solid peachy, baked-pear fruit balanced with just a hint of mineral and honeys. A bit warm but well-balanced with a slightly off-dry finish.

Even juicer is the Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003. Expect fresh green apple, peach notes with attractive floral/honey, clover aromas. The style is elegant and dry with mineral, green apple skin, nectarine, honey, floral flavours and a touch of lime rind. It has fine acidity and balance in a drier style for food. This is the type of riesling I've been waiting for and it comes with screw cap to boot. Load up for summer.

Back to Gehringer again, this time for the Gehringer Brothers Riesling Private Reserve 2004. A whiff of matchstick sulphur blows off quickly to reveal another impressive fresh riesling sporting green apple skin, green peach and mineral aromas. The entry is juicy and crisp with citrus and white peach flavours flecked with hints of honey and mineral. Fresh and bright with a sense of balance we have come to expect from winemaker Walter Gehringer. Super value.

Naramata-based Lang Vineyards isn't flashy, but the wine is always solid. Case in point: Lang Vineyards Riesling Farm Winery Reserve 2004 and its green apple, citrus, honey and pineapple aromas. It is elegant yet slightly sweet with mineral, bitter citrus rind, passion fruit, green apple and floral flavours. It will also improve in bottle for another year or two.

Winemaker Tom DiBello demonstrates his fine touch exposing the juicy fruit flavours in his CedarCreek Dry Riesling 2004. Look for a clean fresh entry mixing green apple, green peach aromas with ripe citrus, red apple and mineral lime rind flavours. This is lip-smacking, cool, B.C. riesling that will work with a wide variety of west coast dishes. Excellent value.

Our final pick is the Quails' Gate Dry Riesling Limited Release 2004. It is somewhat stark on the nose, offering green apple, green peach and floral aromas. It too is crisp, dry and fresh on entry with mineral, pear and lightly bitter citrus rind and fruit cocktail flavours. A delicate, dry style that makes a cool-climate statement.

Weekend Wine Tasting: B.C. Riesling

Gehringer Brothers Riesling Classic 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: $12.49
UPC: 623871010062
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Peachy baked pear fruit with mineral and honeys. A best buy.

Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003, Okanagan Valley
Price: $15.99
UPC: 776545995070
Score: 87/100
Remarks: This is the riesling we've been waiting for and it comes with screw cap to boot.

Gehringer Brothers Riesling Private Reserve 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: $13.99
UPC: 623871020009
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fine freshness and balance and super value.

Lang Vineyards Riesling Farm Winery Reserve 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: 13.90 VQA wine stores
UPC: 626990020684
Score: 87/100
Remarks: The crisp acidity gives it a bit of a sweet and sour finish; perfect with Thai food.

CedarCreek Dry Riesling 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99 VQA Wine Stores
UPC: 778913023026
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Red apple, mineral, lime rind flavours that are lip-smacking good.

Quails' Gate Dry Riesling Limited Release 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: $15.99
UPC: 778856104028
Score: 85/100
Remarks: A delicate, dry style made for patio parties.