Lieutenant-Governor's Awards for Excellence in B.C. Wines

Wines were announced. This year's competition attracted 281 wines from 71 wineries across the province.

This competition is like no other because the panel of judges -- which included me -- is asked to choose only their top eight to 10 wines. No gold, no silver, no bronze, simply the best wines on the day -- or, in this case, two days.

The awards date back to 2003 when the then-lieutenant-governor, the Honourable Iona Campagnolo, consulted with B.C. wine industry professionals to establish an award that "recognizes and honours excellence in wines made from 100-per-cent British Columbian grown and produced wine."

The annual competition, supported and primarily administered under the Government House Foundation, asks for no fee to enter a wine. The only two conditions for entering the competition are: Wines have to be from 100-per-cent B.C.-grown grapes and produced in the province. Each winery is limited to four entries. Despite what I see as no down side, other than the production cost of your wine, some wineries still choose not to enter; to each his own.

From a judge's point of view, the process is simple. We were asked for our considered opinion on each wine and to push forward the best wines from a blind tasting on the first day. The next day, we then chose the winners from that short list. In the end, the panel selected wines that, in their view, have achieved "excellence." Now that the wines have been announced, the winning wines are entitled to use the Lieutenant-Governor's Award logo on their bottles.

Lt.-Gov. Stephen Point will visit the winning wineries at the end of July to present the awards along with members of the Consular Corps of British Columbia. The goal is to educate the various consuls about B.C.'s wine industry, and get them to consider pouring our best whenever they entertain their guests in B.C. Now, to the winning wines.

The Desert Hills 2009 Gamay Noir was impressive during a recent visit to the winery and shone in the tasting. Better than many Pinot noirs made locally, it has the fruit and styling to please most palates and it is affordable.

The Foxtrot Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir has been turning heads among oenophiles who chase the Holy Grail Pinot grape. Look for both ripe, mouth filling fruit and finesse to justify its hefty price.

The Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut 2007 sparkler is a mix of Riesling, an aromatic chardonnay clone: musqué and a touch of Pinot Blanc -- all of which shapes its crisp, fresh style that really demands food. The wine spends 16 months on its lees to develop a pleasant yeasty bread dough character that offsets its subtle notes of citrus and nectarine skin. The finish is super crisp. Try it with shellfish.

The Inniskillin Okanagan Discovery Series Sangiovese 2007 continues to improve in the bottle as it develops a round, dry, elegant palate. Look for a cedar-y dry/tart entry with savoury, earthy, spicy, mineral, licorice, coffee/chocolate flavours with a bit of sour plum and cherry. The finish is a bit dusty with light, leafy tannins but otherwise agreeable and will be excellent with meat dishes. Think spaghetti Bolognese.

Painted Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 was one of two winners for the Skaha Bench winery. The cabernet is quite fat with ripe tannins and an oaky/coffee flavour flecked with black cherries, tobacco and pudding flavours. Look for more interesting complexity on the nose of the Painted Rock Red Icon 2007, a Bordeaux-style blend grown on the Skaha Bench just south of Penticton. There is ripe fruit here, flecked with dried herbs and meaty leathery notes. Cellar this through 2013 for best results.

This whole cluster pressed Peller Estates Private Reserve Riesling 2008 is fermented and aged in stainless steel to preserve its obvious fresh citrus, peach and lime rind flavours. Crisp light refreshing and affordable. Try this with barbecued pork.

The Pentâge Winery 2009 Gewurztraminer follows up on the very successful 2008 offering floral, lychee nectarine notes on the nose and equally enticing peachy, orange and lychee fruit flavours in the mouth. Impressive. Try this with spicy pan-Asian dishes.

Winemaker Howard Soon has released a very limited selection merlot for restaurants labelled Sandhill Merlot Sandhill Estate Vineyard Block C 8 2007. This version is rich and supple but with enough grainy tannins to live easily in the bottle through 2015. Look for a savoury, peppery, vanilla cream, coffee, chocolate, black cherry jam nose and flavours flecked with tobacco and cedar. It finish a bit oaky and warm, but with ripe fruit and fine concentration. A very modern style.

Similar to the '07, the Van Westen Vineyards Vino Grigio 2008 captures you with its aromatic, crisp entry and dry, oily character. The palate is clean with more grassy, grapefruit, green apple, honey flavours and a touch of citrus rind in the finish. Solid and should be fine with mussels, or Thai dishes.

Finally the Poplar Grove Winery 2007 Syrah hits a home run. The nose is surprisingly wild or feral with plenty of rich floral, black fruit and minerality. Underneath the wine remains fresh with fine acidity and more blueberry, spicy leather barnyard notes. The textures are smooth and glossy but not overbearing.

Price: $27

UPC: 778829136261

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Subtle notes of citrus and nectarine skin mark a super-crisp finish.

Inniskillin Okanagan Discovery Series Sangiovese 2007, Okanagan Valley

Price: $30

UPC: 063657019511

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Will be excellent with meat-based dishes. Think spaghetti bolognese.

Painted Rock Red Icon 2007, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price: $55

UPC: 0062699095385

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fine complexity, length and ripe fruit.

Sandhill Merlot Sandhill Estate Vineyard Block C8 2007, Okanagan Valley

Price: $35

UPC: 058976501274

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Exciting modern Merlot style that will be best in two to three years.

Van Westen Vineyards Vino Grigio 2008, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price: $19

UPC: 006269900055273

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Grassy, grapefruit, green apple, honey flavours and a touch of citrus.

Poplar Grove Syrah 2007, Okanagan Valley

Price: $30

UPC: 00626990076711

Score: 90/100

Remarks: The textures are smooth and glossy but not overbearing. Great with lamb.