Less is More at CedarCreek

CedarCreek has been busy reorganizing its portfolio to reflect a new, slimmed-down philosophy and those changes will assure a year round presence of CedarCreek's key labels in government stores that should keep the public and restaurants happy.

The key change involves a merger of CedarCreek's varietal wine series with its estate select series, by eliminating an entire tier and several labels there is more wine to go around. Winemaker Tom DiBello couldn't be happier stating: "We will now craft just two tiers of elegant wines which will decrease our number of SKUs from 24 to 16." DiBello is ecstatic about concentrating on fewer wines and frankly, so are we.

The good news for consumers is the $30 estate select series wine will be merged with the $20 varietal series, and all of it will retail for $20. The very best fruit and barrels will still go into the Platinum Series where DiBello has a free hand to make the best wine he can.

CedarCreek's new-found interest in government stores is worth noting. Since the Free Trade Agreement, B.C. wineries have enjoyed a generous home-team loophole that allows them to sell wines direct to customers avoiding the crushing taxes paid by imported producers in government stores. The result has been that few if any interesting local labels make their way into government stores. But that thinking is changing under the new economic reality as consumers buy less wine and gravitate back to government stores and familiar labels.

Private stores used the good times to muscle in on the hard-to-get or unknown wines so they could slap on a hefty price tag to pay the rent, but most have failed to develop any meaningful marketing or advertising to sustain their business outside of their hood. VQA wine stores seemed like a good idea, but that brand is only as strong as its weakest link and there are several. It would appear the wineries, store owners and the British Columbia Wine Institute have failed to capitalize on the massive interest in local wines to upgrade the VQA store brand and make it a cohesive go-to retail enterprise for B.C. wine.

As for CedarCreek, the Kelowna-based winery appears more ready than ever to take on the future as it shrinks its label list to concentrate on making the best wine it can from Kelowna to Osoyoos, drawing upon its 61 hectares of impressive benchland vineyards.

The first release that represents the new mix of the old Classic and Estate lines is the CedarCreek Pinot Gris 2008. The entry is tight, mixing nectarine skin, green apples and lemon lime notes with a mineral citrus, salty finish and just a touch of oak. It is mouth-watering and ready for almost any creamy seafood pasta or chicken dish or you can try it with local oysters. Now under screw cap.

The CedarCreek Gewürztraminer 2008 delivers a fresh easy-sipping style with bits of lychee lime and peach on the nose. On the palate, the entry is soft with a touch of mid-palate sugar over an herbal, lemon, ginger, sausage meat finish. Drink on the patio all summer or try it with lighter sushi dishes.

CedarCreek Proprietor's White 2008 has a long history and the story has been mostly good. Perhaps the Okanagan's original aromatic white, it's a multi-vinifera blend of chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot blanc, ehrenfelser, gewürztraminer and riesling that displays a fruity floral aromatic nose with a fine mix of peachy, honey, pineapple fruit and some obvious residual sugar. Serve well-chilled before dinner or pair it up with spicy foods and let it cool them down.

It's been a couple of years since I've tasted the CedarCreek Estate Select Syrah 2006. The '03 was an excellent first effort and the '05 was a big winner at the Canadian Wine Awards. The '06 nose is rich and spicy with fragrant savoury sweet peppery aromas and flavours laced with chocolate and gamy meaty undertones. All soft and slippery, it finishes dry. A terrific wine for the price.

Merlot took a big hit in Sideways and for good reason, but Miles wasn't drinking Northwest merlot and certainly not CedarCreek Merlot 2006. Look for big, open high-toned spicy fruit pudding aromas with vanilla and black cherries. Bordeaux with fruit, cedar, pencil lead and a firm, dry, ripe finish. This is delicious, well-made merlot.

The latest CedarCreek Estate Select Meritage 2006 is a microcosm of the DiBello style. Typically this wine comes with a lean frame that pervades from back to front, in essence working the finesse angle as opposed to so many south Okanagan reds that work the fat, smoky fruit and oak story. Look for vanilla, cocoa and black fruit nose with lovely restraint. On the mid-palate, lively vibrant acidity with fresh cranberry, licorice and black fruit with fine wood integration. Cellar or serve now with roast lamb.

Price: $18

UPC: 778913028090

Score: 87/100

Remarks: The CedarCreek gris is always a cool version with bright acidity.

CedarCreek Gewürztraminer 2008, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $18

UPC: 778913028052

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Drink on the patio all summer or serve it with lighter sushi dishes.

CedarCreek Proprietor's White 2008, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $13

UPC: 778913018015

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Serve well-chilled before dinner or pair it up with spicy foods.

CedarCreek Estate Select Syrah 2006, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $35

UPC: 778913053597

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fragrant, savoury, sweet, peppery aromas and flavours flecked with meaty undertones.

CedarCreek Merlot 2006, B.C.

Price: $20

UPC: 7789130365538

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Bordeaux-style with fruit and a firm, dry, ripe finish. Tasty merlot.

CedarCreek Estate Select Meritage 2006, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $30

UPC: 778913056567

Score: 90/100

Remarks: A delicious lean red with style and finesse.