Late Summer Sauvignon Sippin'

To be more precise I've tasted 107 examples of the cool white grape that in the 1970s was best known as chardonnay's poor cousin. How far sauvignon has come.

Today the best grapes are grown on the coolest most marginal vineyard sites, it's fermented with little or no oak it and the result is a big, clean white wine with intense fresh flavours.  And it is those intense flavour elements that are attracting red wine drinkers (already used to big flavours) back to the white wine camp.

Since the turn of the millennium, global changes in sauvignon have centred upon oak, as in using less of it. Similarly, more and more bottles are sporting screwcaps and synthetic corks eschewing natural corks and thus avoiding any contamination problems ― a particularly annoying trait when it comes to delicate, aromatic wines like sauvignon blanc or riesling.

In the same manner that the riesling renaissance was jump-started outside of its German home base, interest in sauvignon blanc is being rekindled outside of France's Loire Valley. The competition is coming from Marlborough, New Zealand, Casablanca, Chile, and coastal South Africa and California.

It's not to say that leading Loire sub-regions such as Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or Touraine have gone unnoticed (because repeatedly the 'best' sauvignons tasted outside of France are described as being Sancerre or Pouilly Fume-like). The problem is many consumers are simply unaware that Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, Touraine are made from sauvignon blanc.

In California, the best examples mimic the Loire style with its smoky, mineral, pear and green apple flavours, leaner structure and higher acidity.

In Chile, everyone is heading for the coast. The best sauvignon is round, fresh and fruity although not necessarily as complex as their global brethren.

Not to be dismissed this time around is Australia and in particular the revolution in the Adelaide Hills where super fresh examples, all under screwcap are the norm.

The story of South Africa's rebirth on the international market is closely tied to its cool coastal sauvignon blanc although finding them isn't all that easy.

Today we look at six impressive labels in our market that could easily make up the sauvignon blanc section of any restaurant wine list. All you need add is the shellfish.

One last note. There are far too many old bottles of sauvignon floating around the city. Stick to the 2004 vintage and if you have to the 2003 after that ask for a discount to buy or drink anything older.  

Sippin' Sauvignon

I just love the Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Casablanca, Chile. Its ripe passion fruit, gooseberry, butter and kiwi aromas preview a soft, elegant white that mixes passion fruit and smoky apple flavours with a hint of artichoke. Crisp and balanced with persistent fruit on the finish. Fine value.

One of the best examples of the new sauvignon style in California is the Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004. Look for grassy, minty, gooseberry, chalky aromas with gooseberry, grapefruit rind and green apple flavours. A friendly crowd pleaser sauvignon at an attractive price.

New from Western Australia (arriving in early September) is the Palandri Boundary Road Sauvignon Blanc 2004. Passion fruit, lime rind and mineral aromas intermingle with a touch of bell pepper to produce a round elegant, fresh sauvignon with a chalky citrus aftertaste. Although herbaceous, it's well balanced and flavourful.  Zesty sauvignon that is perfect with oysters.

You can keep the fun quotient up with the Pepi Sauvignon Blanc 2003 also from California. Pepi offer sup a round, forward style sauvignon with a touch of sweet lemongrass, grapefruit, kiwi, mineral flavours. The finish is slightly warm (alcoholic) with a citrus rind thread throughout. Twist off the cap and sip all summer. Well made.

A new listing showing much promise is Italian owned Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Marlborough. Look for typical jalapeno, canned asparagus, and honey aromas with some grapefruit rind underneath. Round, fresh, crisp and elegant with gooseberry, mineral, grapefruit rind and passion fruit flavours. It's even better in the mouth than the somewhat herbaceous nose would indicate.

Our last pick is Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004. The Stellenbosch, South Africa sauvignon has long been admired for its 'Kiwi" demeanour and the gooseberry, mineral, grassy nose flecked with artichoke and ripe apples does not disappoint. Mussels, plain and simple, and glass of Mulderbosch and you have a meal.

Wine Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Valle de Casablanca, Chile
Price $14.95
UPC 7804320037875
Score 88/100
Remarks    Ripe passion fruit, gooseberry and kiwi fruit. Good value.

Wine Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004, California
Price $15.99
UPC 083417000207
Score 88/100
Remarks    A crowd pleaser style at an attractive price.

Wine Palandri Boundary Road Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Western Australia
Price $18.99 (arriving early September)
UPC 83602300010
Score 87/100
Remarks    Fresh zippy Western Oz fruit with chalky highlights.
 
Wine Pepi Sauvignon Blanc 2003, California
Price $19.99
UPC 086982001006
Score 88/100
Remarks    Twist off the cap and sip all summer. Well made.

Wine Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand
Price $24.90
UPC 8032937312200
Score 89/100
Remarks    Mineral, grapefruit rind and passion fruit flavours.

Wine Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Price $26.99
UPC 812782000068
Score 89/100
Remarks    Crisp textures flecked with grassy, gooseberry flavours.