Late Summer Sauvignon Sippers

Malbec probably comes as no surprise -- the savoury, Argentine dinner red is really coming into its own -- but the revelation for me this year is sauvignon blanc.

With the warm weather still lingering, I wanted to squeeze in one more look at the fragrant white wine that has really raised its flavour profile. With autumn just around the corner, there is plenty of time to get to the malbec, and we will when the weather turns cool and inevitably wet.

We reviewed a number of sauvignons back in June and there were some excellent examples, but I must say the dozen or so I tasted this week really caught my attention. Interestingly, most are sealed under screwcap, although one of the very best on this day was closed with a good old-fashioned natural cork.

It was a pleasant surprise given how many bottles we encounter that suffer from some level of cork taint that is particularly problematic when tasting the delicate, floral aromatic sauvignon blanc. The mere hint of a spoiled cork is enough to dull the nose of any sauvignon blanc, flattening out the flavours on the palate and leaving it fruitless.

But enough bad news. When it comes to sauvignon blanc, my advice is simply buy the screwcap versions and reduce your risk of getting a defective wine.

Today we begin in the south of France. The globetrotting Lurton brothers offer you a super clean, fresh, lip smacking Jacques & Francois Lurton Fumees Blanches 2005 from the Pays d'Oc. It's dry and elegant with green melon, mineral slate-y, grapefruit flavours throughout. It's the second year this has come under screwcap and it's all good.

New Zealand's Marlborough district turned sauvignon on its ear 25 years ago with its, cool, intense version of this variety but lately the region's sauvignon is beginning to develop finesse. Twin Islands Sauvignon Blanc 2005 has a smoky, jalapeno, gooseberry, mineral nose and a slightly oily, but crisp texture. Bits of canned asparagus mix with passion fruit, pink grapefruit and smoky mineral flavours and its slightly bitter, lime-rind finish. Should be perfect with oysters or mussels.

The Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2005 is even more impressive with its grapefruit, bell pepper, green apple, chalky, mineral nose. The mid-palate is rich, or least as rich as a dry, cool-climate white wine can be, with more chalky, gooseberry, grapefruit, Granny Smith flavours and a slightly smoky, jalapeno undercurrent. This is delicious New Zealand sauvignon you can serve with halibut, black cod or shellfish.

The Limari Valley remains unknown to most Chilean wine fans, but the valley located well to the north of Aconcagua and Santiago is a hotbed for chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and syrah. At $13.78, you will get your money's worth from the Tamaya Sauvignon Blanc 2006 with its big grapefruit, lime rind and passion fruit nose to its floral, gooseberry, smoky, lime flavours. Clean fresh, affordable and fun.

Despite its natural cork finish the Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc Charlotte's Home 2005 from Sonoma County, boasts sensational aromas of rose petal, gooseberry, passion fruit, lime and honey that entice. Round and elegant, it's awash in grapefruit, lime and grassy, lanolin, mineral flavours. Exotic, delicious and well balanced.

And now for something completely different, there is Matetic EQ Sauvignon Blanc 2005 from Valle de San Antonio in Chile. Coastal Chile is superbly positioned to grow great sauvignon and Matetic, pronounced ma-tah-TEACH, is one of the best early results. Look for an intense passion fruit nose with smoky, gooseberry, floral, cooked pear aromas with a touch of butter. Ripe, rich, crisp and fresh, it has a huge, smoky, passion fruit, honey and green melon flavour flecked with roasted pepper and pink grapefruit notes. Delicious.

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JACQUES & FRANCOIS LURTON FUMEES BLANCHES 2005, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, FRANCE
Price: $11.99
UPC: 635335120422
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh clean and balanced. Second year under screwcap and it all looks good.

TWIN ISLANDS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $18.99
UPC: 9416827001020
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Passion fruit, pink grapefruit and smoky, mineral notes. Solid styling for food.

WITHER HILLS MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
Price: $22.99
UPC: 9418165002608
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Crisp, vibrant, elegant, single-vineyard wine bottled under screwcap.

TAMAYA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, LIMARI VALLEY, CHILE
Price: $13.78
UPC: 07808731000053
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Gooseberry and smoky, lime flavours. Very solid value.

RODNEY STRONG SAUVIGNON BLANC CHARLOTTE'S HOME 2005, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $24.99
UPC: 087512943056
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Crisp and balanced with grapefruit, lime and mineral flavours.

MATETIC EQ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, VALLE DE SAN ANTONIO, CHILE
Price: $24.95
UPC: 7804611640005
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Fabulous passion fruit, smoky, gooseberry, floral, cooked pear aromas.