Late Summer Barbecue Picks

We begin in the Okanagan, where I spent the last week assessing nearly 1,000 Canadian wines.

Up and down the valley, a difficult winter and spring has left most crops well behind the normal ripening pattern. Some vineyards are as much as three weeks late in the north and up to 10 days in the south. Experienced vineyard managers will be working full out after veraison (the stage in grape growing where the berries change colour and the skins soften) to drop bunches as they desperately find a way to lighten the load and ripen what is left before temperatures begin to drop and the days start to shorten.

Still in the Okanagan: If you have a chance to attend any dinner or food-and-wine event that Joy Road Catering is involved in, do not hesitate. Joy Road is the premier catering company in the Okanagan (it could give most Vancouver players a run for their money) focused on local fresh foods and elegant dining in and out of doors.

I attended a recent "long-table" dinner inside the fermentation room at Painted Rock and was blown away by the quality of the food, the winery setting and the wine pairing.

Painted Rock Winery, by the way, is a stunning vineyard with major potential. And while it has no meaningful appellation status other than Okanagan Valley, this addition to the Skaha Bench winery community is proof the Penticton area needs more restrictive and descriptive appellations to describe its vineyards.

Speaking of appellations, the giant French wine region of the Languedoc is moving in the opposite direction, simplifying its 29 appellations into three major parts. A new joint trade organization, CIVL, created in 1994, has structured and organized the appellations of natural sweet, sparkling and still wines covering the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region, from the gates of Nimes to the Spanish border, under the new regional appellation Languedoc AOC launched in 2007.

The base Languedoc appellation will form the foundation of a three-tier pyramid that will include a series of grand cru and grand vin wines at the top.

Noted appellations such as Minervois, St. Chinian, and Coteaux de Languedoc will be labelled Grands Vins du Languedoc, while the finest individual vineyard sites, whose names are soon to be approved by the CIVL will be able to use the coveted Grands Crus du Languedoc rating.

The new pyramid hierarchy will appear on wine labels beginning in the middle of 2011.

Meanwhile here at home, Canada remains the second-most significant market for Argentina's growing wine prowess.

The most sold brand to Canada, especially in Quebec and Ontario, is from Zuccardi. It is called Fuzion and its FOB price grew from US$21 to US$26 per case over the last 12 months. So heading into the fall, the fastest growing import brand in Canada is leaving Argentina at less than $2.50 a bottle. If I was an Okanagan producer, that would sure get me focused about where I was headed in 2011.

The latest from Three Winds Syrah 2008 confirms the underlying quality of Languedoc fruit. I love its tightly wound, firm mid-palate and all its peppery, meaty, spicy, juicy black cherry, plum and licorice root flavours. A delicious Syrah at a great price; load up by the case. Serve with lamb chops or grilled beef.

The ripe, round, dry, full palate of Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2007 suggest class and sophistication and the black pepper, black cherry, meaty, smoky, plummy fruit backs up the supposition. Expect fine acidity (great with food) and excellent concentration (to impress your guests). Peppoli makes that I-know-wine statement, quietly.

A wine list stalwart in Vancouver, the 1884 Reservado Malbec 2009 is classic malbec with its intense colour, peppery savoury fruit and plush character. I'm happy to report this version is drier than previous efforts making it easier to get through the bottle. Crazy value at $18 and works well the most anything on the barbecue. Still young and fresh with some gritty tannins but they will dissipate going forward.

The Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2009 a Syrah, mourvèdre and viognier blend is on a roll. The latest release is awash in cherry, floral, orange licorice aromas that preview a supple, fresh, elegant palate. More smoky, spicy, black cherry, plum, coffee, licorice, chocolate flavours with a hint of grilled meat entice on the palate. Well-crafted and seriously value priced. Stock up.

Those of you who prefer less heft will enjoy the Dominique Piron Domaine de la Chanaise Beaujolais-Villages 2009, made from the Gamay grape. The nose is a mix of carbonic cherry and peppery licorice with dried herbs. The palate is fresh and elegant with mineral, earthy, cherry, spicy, smoky licorice root flavours. Good finesse in a lighter, more austere style for food. Try this with pork or chicken.

Finally from the Rhone Valley, La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2008. Check out its soft, round, velvety palate with earthy, black raspberry, peppery, licorice root, spicy, orange peel and mineral flavours. Warm, clean and fresh but good solid fruit and style for current drinking. The Perrin Cotes du Ventoux is mostly Grenache with small percentages of Syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault. Love the value here.

Three Winds Syrah 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price      $14

UPC       3760143270353

Score    89/100

Remarks              Tar, violets, black pepper and juicy black cherry fruit.

Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2007, Tuscany, Italy

Price      $29

UPC       008001935001362

Score    89/100

Remarks              Class and sophistication.

1884 Reservado Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina

Price      $17

UPC       00722358070008

Score    88/100

Remarks              Crazy value at $17 and works well the most anything on the barbecue.

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2009, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $15

UPC       746925000564

Score    88/100

Remarks              Well-crafted and seriously value priced. Stock up.

Dominique Piron Domaine de la Chanaise Beaujolais-Villages 2009, Beaujolais, France

Price      $17

UPC       00493399100913

Score    87/100

Remarks              Good finesse in a lighter, more austere style for food.

La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2008, Rhone Valley, France

Price      $14

UPC       631470000018

Score    87/100

Remarks              Mostly grenache with small amounts of syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault. Killer value.