Kiwi Vintners Twist and Shout

Although it's fun to mention, be assured no one is pitching the screw cap closures to attract you to the tasting. That's because according to North American wine marketers the consumer image of screw cap wine remains one of inferior quality and not something they are in any rush to associate their brand with.

I sometimes think the opponents of screw caps would still prefer to draw their wine from ancient amphorae topped with olive oil to keep the wine from spoiling.

How is it we have become so entrenched in our thinking as to reject the same screw cap we nonchalantly twist off our bottled water, orange juice and olive oil without so much as a second glance?

Despite the resistance of 40-something marketers, screw cap closures are here to stay. In fact the cap once associated with cheap jug wine has come full circle Down Under and leading the rush is New Zealand.

It's easy to understand why the screwcap has become an overnight success in the no-nonsense New Zealand wine market where freshness and fruit are prime concerns. Kiwi producer think too much of their wine and their customers to chance selling them corked or tainted wine.

Noticeably defective corks, or worse, 'just off' cork-tainted bottles mistaken by many consumers as simply bad wine, are the modern-day wine industry's dirty little secret.

Cork taint ranges from the obvious ― dank, mouldy, cardboard, fruitless aromas to the barely noticeable. It's the latter that is most damaging because its knocked-down fruit character can lead consumers to think it's just a badly made wine as opposed one ruined by a faulty cork.

While North American distributors and a certain sector of the restaurant trade are rejecting screw caps, preferring to extol the virtues of the romantic 'pop' of a natural cork, Kiwi vintners and a growing number of Australians are busy extolling the virtues of fresh, fruity, clean wine delivered to your glass with the same flavours it left the winery with ― untainted by a faulty cork.

Screwcap white wines are a no brainer and it doesn't take more that a couple of tastings to see why. Light fruity, red wines are similarly suited to twist off tops and as scientists play with the permeability of the seal underneath the screw cap, (to allow for different levels of oxygen exchange) red wines built for ageing may profit equally.

Ultimately, consumers will determine the success or failure of this innovative closure but what's clear is caring wineries and regions will forge ahead in the meantime.

New to the market and keenly priced is the Esk River Sauvignon Blanc 2004. The first release of the Esk River label offers bone dry sauvignon with plenty of grassy, mineral flavours mixed with classic gooseberry and lime rind touches. It's very tightly wound and would be perfect with oysters.

The Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Marlborough has an aromatic, fresh, green apple nose streaked with canned asparagus, jalapeno and gooseberry notes. It's riper on the palate with fresh juicy, green melon, mineral and grapefruit flavours. Just twist off the cap and serve with fresh mussels.

Another new label to B.C. is the highly respected Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Marlborough. Expect intense grapefruit, canned asparagus and smoky jalapeno aromas on the nose and mineral, smoky asparagus, grassy, gooseberry flavours. The finish is clean and crisp with enough finesse to keep you sipping. A twist-off with style.

The Nautilus Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004 is a Marlborough benchmark. It's always super crisp with grassy, green apple, mineral, smoky jalapeno and canned asparagus flavours. Although herbaceous on the nose it is very well balanced and super flavourful. Those who like the austere, zesty sauvignon style will love this with oysters.

Paretai means riverbank in Maori but you can smell ocean seaweed and passion fruit on the nose of the Matua Valley Paretai Sauvignon Blanc 2004. Rich, round and succulent it has a juicy entry with spicy smoky, canned asparagus, grapefruit juice, mineral and passion fruit flavours. The finish is all gooseberry, guava finish.

Pinot noir drinkers should applaud the Shingle Peak Pinot Noir 2004. The use of only 20 per cent new oak combined with a screw cap let's the fruit loose. Look for a smoky strawberry/cherry spicy nose with a rootsy, barnyard undercurrent. The entry is silky, there is plenty of acidity and the tannins are slippery. A delicious berry-laden pinot the winery suggests you serve with grilled lamb chops.

Weekend Wine Tasting: New Zealand

Wine Esk River Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Hawkes Bay, North Island
Price $14.99
UPC 9417676803049
Score 86/100
Remarks Super fresh and clean and screwcap bound.
 
Wine Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, South Island
Price $19.99
UPC 941530600998
Score 89/100
Remarks Green melon, mineral, grapefruit and kiwi flavours.

Wine Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Marlborough, South Island
Price $21.99
UPC 9416564981012
Score 89/100
Remarks Classic mineral, smoky asparagus, grass and gooseberries.

Wine Nautilus Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, South Island
Price $24.99
UPC 9416827004021
Score 88/100
Remarks Austere zesty sauvignon style; the ultimate oyster wine.

Wine Matua Valley Paretai Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island
Price $31.99
UPC 9415305170036
Score 92/100
Remarks Rich, round, succulent and juicy white wine.

Wine Shingle Peak Pinot Noir 2004, Marlborough, South Island
Price $20.99
UPC 941530702982
Score 88/100
Remarks A delicious berry-laden pinot just in time for summer.