Kim Crawford Caps His '02 Wines For Flavour

The closure that was once associated with cheap jug wine has come full circle in some regions and leading the rush are New Zealand producers.

It's not difficult to understand why the screwcap has become an overnight success in the no-nonsense New Zealand market, where freshness and fruit are prime concerns. Kiwi producers think too much of their wine and their customers to chance selling them corked or tainted wine.

Forrest Estate's owner/winemaker John Forrest lists just some of the advantages of the Stelvin or screw-cap stopper. "There's the obvious ease of opening -- no more fighting with difficult cork screws," Forest says. Then there's the convenience factor -- "restaurants love screwcap wines for ease, speed and reliability of service."

Forrest also cites the total confidence feature, "where, you receive wine in premium condition, alive and abounding with flavours. Add consistent quality -- each bottle will be as good as the last, and no more corked wines with those malodorous rotten-cardboard flavours" and, well, you get the message: resistance is futile.

That is, unless you own a large premium winery with a global reputation. Most of the big names are dragging their feet, giving into their fortysomething management types who are fond of reminding everyone that the original screwcap image is one of cheap jug wine.

Some are so intransigent about screwcaps, you get the impression they still play vinyl records at home, all the while eschewing the CD format.

In B.C., the rules that govern VQA production are finally changing to allow the use of screwcaps but it's happening to accommodate a screwcap "house wine" that has been created for the Fairmont hotel chain.

This plays directly into the cheap-wine image, when what B.C. should be doing is putting its best foot forward from the beginning. Why not bottle its trademark white wine varietal, pinot gris, under screwcap? Now that's a story the wine world would note and the side effect would be cleaner, fresher wine in every bottle.

This week, we turn our attention to the wines of Kim Crawford, a New Zealand producer that has jumped off the cliff and bottled its best wines under screwcap.

Winemaker Crawford utilizes small, selected vineyards in Marlborough, Gisborne and Hawke's Bay and aims to "let the natural flavour of the grape flow through into the final product and to produce wines with a distinctive character and a natural, uncluttered taste."

He's done all that and more, although with the exception of his sauvignon blanc, you won't find his wines in government liquor stores; instead, look for them in private wine shops or restaurants. Here are my notes:

The 2002 Sauvignon Blanc is now under screwcap for its second full vintage. Look for rich, canned-jalapeno aromas with a touch of asparagus, all streaked with chalk and mineral. There is plenty of citrus on the palate with excellent mid-palate balance and power. Green apple, green pepper and grapefruit flavours mark its long finish. Break out the mussels.

Two cool Marlborough vineyards that ripen later and have differing flavour profiles were used to make the 2002 Dry Riesling. Look for floral, baked-apple and apricot notes on the nose flecked with slate and mineral with fatter textures on the palate and flavours that are slightly less intense. Soft, round textures with apple fruit flavours, but without a lot of zip.

The 2002 Chardonnay Unoaked has an attractive peach/mineral/citrus nose with more ripe apple/peach fruit and mineral/citrus butter in the finish. The style is refreshing, delicate, easy-drinking and uncomplicated. It's fabulous zingy flavours create a style B.C. wineries should be emulating. Stock up for the summer -- this one's a winner.

Big, bright red-apple and mineral aromas mark the nose of the 2002 Pinot Gris. It is clean and fresh and almost identical in taste. The aftertaste is elegant, round and warm with flecks of citrus butter. This is an impressive pinot gris that is well balanced and fun to drink. Perfect for summer.

The 2002 Pinot Noir is a rare screwcap red but its toasted-oak compost and black cherry notes are perfectly suited to being left uncorked. It has a soft, simple, fruity entry with round textures and reflects the easy-drinking Marlborough pinot style. Look for rootsy black cherry and oak toast flavours in the finish. Pleasant and ready to drink.

The 2002 Tietjen-Briant Chardonnay is 100-per-cent barrel fermented in 50-per-cent new American oak. Big toasted butter and popcorn mark the nose. The entry is crisp and clean with baked apple and toasted buttery fruit in the finish. It's not flat or flabby, nor is it sweet, but it is oaky -- so it's a matter of style. Well made and worth trying.

The finale, a 2000 Merlot Te Awanga Vineyard, is grown at warmish Hawkes Bay. Look for smoky compost-pit aromas with bags of cassis/cherry fruit. Soft supple textures and more tobacco fruit flavours fill out the finish. Fair value for the price and certainly among the best merlot in the market at this price range.

KIM CRAWFORD WINES, NEW ZEALAND

Wine: 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

Price: $23.99

UPC: 689352009611

Score: 15.5/20

Comments: Jalapeno, chalky/mineral/citrus flavours.

Wine: 2002 Dry Riesling, Marlborough

Price: $23.99 *

UPC: 94192270004165

Score: 14/20

Comments: Baked apple and apricot flecked with slate and mineral.

Wine: 2002 Chardonnay Unoaked, Marlborough

Price: $23.99 *

UPC: 689352009628

Score: 15/20

Comments: Delicious apple/peach fruit streaked with mineral butter.

Wine: 2002 Pinot Gris, Marlborough

Price: $23.99 *

UPC: 689352009642

Score: 15.5/20

Comments: Bright red apple and mineral aromas and fruit.

Wine: 2002 Pinot Noir, Marlborough

Price: $23.99 *

UPC: 689352009680

Score: 14/20

Comments: Easy sipping with black cherry notes.

Wine 2002 Chardonnay Tietjen - Briant, Gisborne - Poverty Bay

Price $28.99 *

UPC 689352009635

Score 15/20

Remarks Crisp entry with baked apple and toasted buttery fruit.

Wine 2000 Merlot Te Awanga Vineyard, Hawkes Bay

Price $28.99 *

UPC 689352009673

Score 16/20

Remarks Among the best merlot in the market for the price.

* Available in private wine shops and restaurants only.