June 16/05 - B.C.'s Best From A to Z

87 Black Hills Nota Bene 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $31.95 Winery Only
The latest Nota Bene a 46/34/20/ cabernet sauvignon / merlot / cabernet franc is much cleaner than past versions on the nose and palate but the flavour profile remains smoky, roasted bell pepper with earthy, tobacco, olive, coffee/resin notes. It is dry round and smooth on entry with supple tannins (yeah) followed by spicy, vanilla, resiny, peppery, black olive flavours laced with tobacco leaf, mineral and licorice flavours. The finish is warm. It needs another 2-4 years to fully develop and hopefully reveal more fruit tones.

87 Blasted Church Chardonnay Musque 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.95; BC $16.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Creamy lees, bread dough/mineral, buttery citrus nose with streaks of white peach. Aromatic style chardonnay made in stainless steel with a fresh tropical fruit (mango pineapple) flavour with a nutty honey undercurrent. Well done. Only 440 cases made.

88 Blasted Church Merlot 2003
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
A super dark opaque colour previews a rich spicy nose of black raspberry and smoky, tobacco leaf. The entry is smooth (there is plenty of alcohol) and supple (light tannins) with cedar-y, coffee, smoky, black cherry, vanilla fruit. A warm year has ripen the fruit and spiked the alcohol but this will be enjoyed by many.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Blanc 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $24.95; BC $14.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
The '04 has fresh pale straw look and the nose confirms the eye offering red apple/pear notes with an exotic streak of orange rind. Winemaker Marcus Ansems prefers the austere steely style hence the stainless steel only ferment and extended lees contact with some stirring. Very likeable citrus finish. Food friendly.

87 Blasted Church Pinot Gris 2004
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $26.50; BC $18.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Avoiding the bouts of botrytis was the key to surviving the '04 harvest in B.C. and fortunately at Blasted Church the pinot gris came through unscathed. Only 10 per cent of the wine sees wood (yeah) as evidenced by its earthy mineral nose and flavours. Not overly intense but there is enough peachy nectarine fruit and citrus to carry the finish. Solid but not cheap.

87 Blue Mountain Pinot Gris Reserve (Stripe Label) 2002
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 Winery
Honey, citrus rind, mineral, buttered popcorn aromas. Dry, slightly skinny palate with crisp acidity. Buttery diacetyl, oily, mineral, lime rind, green apple skin flavours. Made for oysters.

87 Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2003
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $23.90 Winery
Smoky, bacon, barnyard nose with black cherries, carrot top and licorice notes. The palate is dry and round with some elegance but the flavours are slightly lean mixing more rhubarb, mineral, smoky, resiny, raspberry flavours. The finished is a resiny with stewed cherry fruit. Solid but a bit thin on fruit.

88 Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Reserve (Stripe Label) 2002
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $32.00 Winery
Spicy, barnyard, cinnamon, smoky nose with streaks of celery top, mushroom/compost aromas and black cherry underneath. Dry, round, elegant palate but still a bit tight with earthy, spicy, smoky, mushroom, barnyard, stewed cherry and rhubarb flavours. Blue Mountain has consistently improved in bottle and we suspect this edition will be no different.

90 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $26.90 Winery Only
Very deep cherry colour. Black olive, cassis, spicy, peppery, tobacco, roasted bell pepper, saddle leather aromas with smoky oak vanilla and garrigue notes. Moderately rich round and supple with balanced tannins. Good cassis, black berry, vanilla, chocolate, peppery, minty, smoky, black olive flavours and a touch of roasted bell pepper. Suave, supple style with good balance and intensity and a few tannins to shed. A 3-7 year wine, very good effort.

88 Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $23.00 Winery
Spicy vanilla, honey, mango, peach and baked apple aromas with some citrus notes. Ripe, round, dry and slightly hot with a dry, mineral, oily texture. Citrus, peach, creamy lees, vanilla, buttery baked apple flavours. Very ripe with some good length but showing some alcohol in the finish.

90 Burrowing Owl Meritage 2002 Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $34.90 Winery Only
Just released the 02 is a blend of 40/40/20 cabernet franc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Mocha, minty, black cherry, tea, black berry jam aromas mixed with tobacco, leather, cranberry and peppery orange peel notes. Rich, round, warm and dry with supple, ripe tannins. Big spicy, mocha, peppery, minty, tobacco, clove, smoky black olive flavours with a cassis, coffee vanilla pudding finish. Quite suave with good intensity, should age well over the next 4-6 years. Impressive ― 1000 cases made in a new Pomerol-like style. Reminiscent of Vieux Chateau Certan but hotter.

89 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $20.00 Winery
Another fine effort from BOV albeit slightly leaner and crisper than in the past and showing a touch more alcohol. Look for a floral, spicy, citrus, light buttery nose with mineral, earthy aromas. Round, dry, elegant palate with grapefruit rind, minerals and spice with light buttery lees and green apple flavours.

88 Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.90 Winery Only
Compost, leaf, black cherry, minty, maraschino, vanilla, cola licorice aromas and quite hot. Dry, rich, somewhat tannic and tight palate. Good rootsy, black cherry, minty, vanilla, leafy forest floor and rhubarb flavours. Elegant styling but too hot and compost-y at this point with some dry, tight tannins on the finish. Needs a year or two to settle down.

91 Burrowing Owl Syrah 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.95 Winery
Very dark cherry colour. Big smoky, dried lychee, sausage meat aromas with peppery, licorice root, blackberry jam notes. Rich, round, fat and ripe with blackberry jam, smoky, peppery, vanilla, dried lychee, mineral, gamey flavours with a long, minty, smoky meat finish. Hot (alcoholic) but still a fine effort with a Northern focus. This young brute needs 2-4 years.

91 CedarCreek Cabernet Sauvignon Platinum Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $39.99 Winery
Dark cherry colour. Lots of spicy, peppery, cedar, tobacco leaf mixed with resiny, smoky vanilla aromas cassis and olive. Lovely round, ripe supple textures with fine grained tannins. Fresh cassis, coriander and pepper entry with spicy, cherry, smoky oak and vanilla flavours. Long and warm but well balanced with good finesse. Young, showing some oak, will improve over the next 3-5 years. Newer Bordelais style ― this is very fine, well crafted cabernet sauvignon. Bravo B.C.

88 CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Specialty
Floral, orange blossom, mineral, red apple nose with some perfumed, apricot notes. Soft, round, elegant and fresh with mineral, grapefruit, green apple, nectarine and rose petal flavours. A touch sweet and warm but has good acidity and balance and very true to type. Try as a sipper, with duck or with Indian food.

87 Garry Oaks Fetish 2003 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $27.95 Winery, VQA Wine Stores
Cherry, vanilla, peppery, spicy, tobacco, resiny aromas. Ripe, round, dry and slightly tannic with good cherry jam, peppery, spicy, licorice, smoky vanilla flavours. Very dry finish with somewhat tight tannins and acidity. Needs 2-4 years to fully round out.

87 Herder Chardonnay 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $16.90 Winery
Spicy, toasty lees, buttery oak aromas with some honey and green apple. Ripe, round and rich with very buttery, smoky vanilla, nutty, leesy, citrus flavours. Quite warm finish with a sense of sweetness and very smoky butterscotch. A good first effort. Look for this label to improve as they back off the oak.

88 Herder Merlot Bellamy Vineyards 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $18.90 Winery
Lawrence Herder the former Golden Mile winemaker is making his own wine in the Similkameen Valley and his first merlot has an open smoky, mocha, chocolate aromas mixed with leafy, herbal, spicy, dill and noticeable alcohol. Rich, round, dry, supple tannins with big chocolate, vanilla, smoky, pudding and black cherry flavours with some minty, cedar notes. Very warm finish but has lots of flavour and oak. Quite intense and young needs more time to develop in bottle.

87 Herder Pinot Gris Bellamy Vineyards 2003
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 Sold Out
Mineral, butter, spicy lees nose with pear and baked apple aromas. Round, dry, rich and warm with buttery vanilla, lees, spicy mineral, baked pear and citrus flavours. Good intensity and ripeness if a bit oaky.

88 Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Blanc Dark Horse Estate Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.49 Specialty
Floral perfumed, bubblegum, honey-scented nose with red apple, mineral, grapefruit rind aromas. Very fresh. Round, elegant palate with fresh acidity and a touch of oiliness. Spicy, mineral, slate, green apple skin, floral, citrus flavours. Attractive style for drinking or with food. Well done.

91 Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $60.00 Winery
It's been several years since we've tasted the Inniskillin Riesling Icewine ― presumably they don't need any help selling these $120 per bottle wines. As it happens the wine was a major hit at the Canadian Wine Awards and is progressing just fine since that August tasting. Look for a lifted aromatic nose of pineapple and citrus and peach with a buttery almost shortbread cookie finish. Very rich and weighty ― all Inniskillin.

89 Inniskillin Okanagan Vidal Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $60.00 Winery
Quite fat 0n nose of peach marmalade and the ever present plastic pail aromas. Rich and viscous on entry with more sweet orange and peach fruit. Very rich finish with burnt caramel and citrus rind flavours. Solid effort in a very warm vintage. Drink now and over the next two to three years. Serve with fresh fruit.

87 Lang Vineyards Riesling Farm Winery Reserve 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.90 VQA Wine Stores
Light matchstick with green apple, citrus, honey, and pineapple aromas. Elegant and slightly sweet with mineral, bitter citrus rind, passion fruit, green apple and floral flavours. The crisp acidity gives it a bit of a sweet and sour finish but it should work well with food. It will also improve in bottle for another year or two.

89 Mission Hill Chardonnay Estate 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $31.50 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $29.99 Speculative - Mark Anthony Brands; NB $29.96 Special Order - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; ON $28.00 Vintages; YK $29.90 Special Order - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants
Honey, floral, spicy, mineral, lime and orange rind, vanilla aromas with a bit of fruit cocktail. Dry, round, crisp palate but balanced with mineral, fruit cocktail, vanilla, nutty lees, honey, green apple flavours with a touch of nectarine and perfume. Nice intensity but definitely more of a food style - not fat or big but stylish.

87 Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $18.25 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $17.95 Specialty; MB $17.95; NB $18.68; NF $18.45; NS $19.35; NWT $16.45; ON $17.95 Vintages Essentials; SK $17.95; YK $18.95
Peach, green apple, fruit salad, mineral, honey, floral aromas with a slightly smoky note. Dry, crisp, tight style with elegance. Vanilla, dry lees, mineral, lime rind, green apple skin flavours with a floral, peach pit note. Nice elegance but very French in style.

87 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Dry Riesling 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $12.99
Lovely fresh green apple, peach notes with attractive floral/honey, clover aromas. Round, elegant, fairly dry style with mineral, green apple skin, nectarine, honey, floral flavours and a touch of lime rind. Nice acidity and balance in a dryer style for food. This is the kind of riesling we've been waiting for and it comes with screw cap to boot. Load up for summer. Great value.

88 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $12.00; BC $12.99 Specialty; MB $12.49; NB $12.79; NS $11.44; ON $12.90; QC $13.95; SK $12.99
Winemaker John Simes has nailed the '04 Pinot Blanc and I suspect its all about vineyard control. Mission Hill was painfully slow off the mark to commit to estate vineyards but you can see now why it pays to have complete control over your fruit. This is quintessential British Columbia pinot blanc fresh and lively with bright citrus and pineapple fruit and none of those bitter skin contact fruit cocktail flavours. Best of all the winery has cranked out thousands of cases and it's available in government liquor stores at a price ($12.99) that few if any B.C. wineries can match for the quality. Oysters please or maybe some simply grilled halibut. I do have one question...where's the screw cap?

87 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $14.99; BC $15.99; MB $11.99; ON $15.95; SK $13.98
Clean, fresh nose with pear, tropical fruit, kiwi, gooseberry aromas. Soft, elegant, round palate with gooseberry, grapefruit, spicy, mineral, green apple flavours. Nice balance and would be a fine match for scallops ceviche.

87 Mission Hill Pinot Grigio Five Vineyards 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $13.00; BC $15.99 Specialty; ON $13.95
Value for money is not a common descriptor of B.C. wine but Mission Hill appears to be honing in on some varieties that are turning out to be both well made and offering good value. The "Five Vineyards Pinot Gris' is just such a wine with its leesy, flinty, honey, pear aromas spiked with a touch of anise and lime rind. It's both round and elegant on the palate and dry. More lime rind, mineral and baked pear flavours follow with a touch of butter. Very crisp, dry finish. Try with grilled seafood.

88 Mission Hill Pinot Gris Reserve 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $17.25; BC $18.99 Specialty; VQA and Private Wine Shops; MB $16.59; NB $18.69; ON $18.95; SK $17.99
Grapefruit, red apple, mineral, lees, honey and quince aromas. Round, dry, crisp and fresh but nicely balanced with honey, grapefruit, green apple, spicy, buttery mineral flavours. Nice intensity and fruit but finishes a bit on the dry side. To be released late summer 2005.

89 Mission Hill Riesling Ice Wine Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $59.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
There's a sense of elegance at Mission Hill that pervades the icewine and in the case of the '03 reserve riesling that translate into a clean fresh nose of apricot mixed with citrus rind that follows through on the palate. More lime and honey greets the mid-palate with some burnt sugar in the finish. Solid mid-weight icewine built for dessert.

92 Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
The latest edition to B.C.'s roster of elite wines is Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2002. Mission Hill's picture perfect winery has garnered a lifetime of accolades for its architecture but now they have a wine with similar impressive structure. Spice, smoky garrigue and licorice root aromas mix easily with black cherry pudding, vanilla, black olive and coriander. The merlot is perfectly ripe with concentrated fruit and supple tannins. Restrained spicy, black cherry jam and chocolate pudding flavours laced with mint, olive, resin and coriander finish long and stylishly. This is the best wine John Simes has made in B.C. and his vineyards are only beginning to fill out.

89 Mission Hill S.L.C. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
Restrained grassy, mineral, grapefruit mixed with green fig, clover and smoky mineral aromas with a hint of honey and vanilla lees. It's made in an elegant dry style with grassy, vanilla, creamy fig, grapefruit rind flavours with a light kiwi, smoky mineral finish. Fine crispness on the finish. Think Graves meeting the Loire in British Columbia. A fine first effort, especially given the smoke and fires that wreaked havoc in Okanagan vineyards.

88 Mission Hill S.L.C. Syrah 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.99 Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
Spicy vanilla, mocha, blackberry, black cherry, smoky garrigue and chocolate pudding aromas. Round, dry, slightly tannic, tight entry with boysenberry, licorice, vanilla pudding, mocha, black cherry, peppery sausage flavours. Dry, slightly elevated acidity with a smoky, peppery finish. Fine fruit and French in style but appears to lack mid-palate concentration at this point which could be a function of young vines. Solid effort.

87 Mission Hill Syrah Estate Bottled 2001
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
AB $28.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $29.90 Private Wine Shops; NB $29.96; ON $29.90 Vintages; Yukon $29.90
Very spicy, sausage, big black pepper licorice resiny nose with a wisp of blackberry and black cherry in the background. Very dry on entry with a touch of acid showing through. Spicy, peppery, resiny, blackberry, licorice root flavours with a smoky note. All the elements are here for a great wine but it lacks the extract and fruit to carry it through to the finish. Needs a few years yet or grilled meat to tame its dry edge.

87 Nichol Vineyard Syrah 2001
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.00 Winery Only
Typical meaty, spicy, peppery nose with roasted bell pepper notes with licorice and tobacco leaf. Dry, round, slightly tannic palate with tobacco, peppery, meaty, licorice, black cherry flavours. Dry, slightly higher acidity finish but very well balanced. Will benefit from 2-3 years aging or decant before drinking. Similar structure to a Northern Rhone in an average year.

87 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2003
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.99 VQA Wine Stores; Private Wine Shops
Big buttered popcorn, vanilla, honey, diacetyl nose with some earthy, mineral, peach notes. Rich round, slightly fat and dry with some warmth. Smoky charred vanilla oak, buttery, mineral, honey, melon flavours. Well balanced if a very oaky, smoky style. For drinking now.

87 Oak Bay Vineyard Northern Gewürztraminer 2004
East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $12.99 Specialty
Fresh floral, peach, mineral, spicy nose with a touch of lychee. Round, elegant style with some sweetness but balanced acidity. Spicy, mineral, perfumy, peach, melon flavours. Not big and fat, has some finesse and length despite some obvious residual sugar. Well done, good value. Love the screw cap.

88 Orofino Merlot Cabernet 2003 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.95 Winery
Big chocolate vanilla, tobacco nose mixed with smoky pepper, mineral, cherry and saddle leather aromas. Rich, round, structured and ripe with grainy tannins. Lots of smoky vanilla, chocolate espresso, tobacco, black cherry flavours. Chunky, chewy finish - very young, should improve over the next 2-5 years. Good effort.

87 Orofino Pinot Noir 2003
Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.95 Winery
Attractive floral, cherry, spicy vanilla nose with a smoky, compost undercurrent with a touch of rhubarb. Dry, rich, alcoholic with a chewy tannic structure. Big spicy, smoky vanilla, peppery, black cherry, cedar-y, stewed prune flavours. The nose shows promise but the textures are too dry and tannic. There's promise here especially if they decide to back off the 100 percent new oak.

88 Poplar Grove Reserve 2001 Merlot - Cabernet Franc
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $34.90 Winery
The blend is 80/20 merlot/cabernet franc. Look for a peppery, spicy, licorice root nose streaked with earthy, clove, mocha and light blackberry notes. It's dry and round on the palate with moderate tannins and fine concentration. Black pepper, chocolate, licorice, and vanilla flavours mix with a smoky, spicy earthy finish. Good intensity if a bit hot and chunky. It still needs a couple of years but not too long. Better with food.

87 Quails' Gate Chardonnay Family Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.99 Specialty
Big buttery, smoky oak nose with vanilla, nut and honey aromas. Fat, round, soft entry with buttery, vanilla, hazelnut, spicy lees and honey flavours. Quite warm and oaky with some balance but lacks fruit and freshness overall. There is segment of the market still drinking this style chardonnay but we are looking for more vibrant fruit and acidity.

87 Quails' Gate Gewürztraminer Limited Release 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.99 Specialty
Spicy, floral, orange blossom, mineral aromas with a bit of almond and peach. Soft, round, sweeter style with mineral, citrus peel, spicy sausage, and baked apple flavours. The finish has decent acidity but this is more of an off-dry sipper for the patio than a main stream dinner wine.

87 Sandhill Cabernet Merlot Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.99 Winery, VQA/PWS
Tobacco, spicy, earthy, green olive, cassis aromas with some tomato leaf streaks. Round, dry, warm entry with smoky vanilla, tobacco leaf, mineral, cassis, cedar, chocolate flavours. Finish is quite dry with young, grainy, chewy tannins. Should improve over the next 2-3 years.

87 Sandhill Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah Burrowing Owl Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $25.99 Granville Island Brewing Retail Store; or www.sandhill.ca
Smoky ok and vanilla mixed with mocha, tomato leaf, saddle leather, prune and olive aromas. Dry, round, rich and slightly tannic with big smoky vanilla, cedar, licorice, roasted tomato and spicy blackberry, resin flavours. Lots of flavour intensity but very oaky and alcoholic and there are still some tannins to shed.

87 Sandhill Gewurztraminer Seven Mountain Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.99 VQA wine shops
Mineral, spicy sausage rose petal nose streaked with marzipan and peach pit aromas. Very dry, round, warm entry with good acidity but somewhat austere style. Big mineral, perfumed, spicy, red apple, citrus rind flavours and a dried lychee finish. Alsace style without quite the weight but better acidity. Solid food wine style.

88 Sandhill One Phantom Creek Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Petit Verdot - Malbec
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.99 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
The '02 Small Lots One is a 95/5/3 blend of cabernet sauvignon/petite verdot and malbec grown at Phantom Creek Vineyard just off Black Sage Road south of Oliver. Look for a huge spicy, smoky nose with coffee pudding, tobacco, caraway and peppery blackberry fruit aromas. Rich, hot and fat it has a supple mid-palate with big coffee, cedar, tobacco, mocha, black cherry, cedar and stewed plum flavours. A monster, alcoholic red that will appeal to hose who love big rich powerful reds.

86 Sandhill Pinot Gris King Family Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $15.99 Specialty
Grapefruit, mineral, passion fruit, grassy aromas. Dry, round, slightly lean style with fresh grassy, grapefruit rind, mineral, pear flavours. Crisp, dry finish, well made but not very gris-like.

87 Sandhill Small Lots Program Three Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002 Sangiovese - Barbera - Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $29.49 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
Butterscotch vanilla pudding, espresso, black cherry jam, kirsch, smoky pepper aromas. Ripe, round, smooth and quite dry on entry with massive smoky, coffee, peppery, vanilla, black licorice and cherry flavours. Quite alcoholic and dry on the finish with big oak. Let's hope the oak recedes over the next few months and let's the fruit really shine thorough.

87 Sandhill Two Burrowing Owl Vineyard Small Lots Program 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Dunkelfelder
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $28.99 Winery; Granville Island Brewing Retail Store
Smoky espresso, black cherry, licorice, crushed leaf, tobacco, minty, spicy nose but a bit hot. Rich, ripe, round and slightly tannic. Big smoky oak, coffee, cranberry, resiny, licorice, tobacco, roasted tomato flavours with a bit of cooked prune. Good intensity if somewhat alcoholic. Needs 2-3 years.

88 Township 7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $20.90 Winery and LRS
Open peppery, meaty, spicy nose with smoky, cassis aromas tobacco, mint and black olive. Dry, round, elegant but somewhat tight. Cassis, spicy, leafy, mineral, earthy, tobacco flavours. Nice finesse and balance but needs some additional fruit. Shoul dimprove in bottle over the next two to three years.

88 Township 7 Chardonnay 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.90 Winery and LRS
Light butter and lees notes mix with peach, melon, green apple aromas streaked with citrus undertones. The entry is round and elegant, the palate soft but fresh with grapefruit rind, mineral, green apple, buttery, honey flavours. Crisp, some finesse, like a buttery mineral Chablis-style. Well done.

87 Township 7 Semillon 2003
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $14.90 Winery and LRS
Grapefruit, melon, grassy, fig and mineral aromas mark the nose of this Black Sage fruit. Soft, round, elegant and fresh with grassy, grapefruit, buttery green melon and mineral flavours. Simple, dry white with a touch of bitterness in the finish.

90 Township 7 Syrah 2002
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.90 Winery and LRS
Smoky sausage, peppery, spicy, leather, black berry aromas. Soft, round, elegant style with black cherry, spicy, licorice, floral, roasted coffee flavours with a warm, peppery, leather mineral finish. Good finesse, supple, has some Rhone like similarities. An excellent interpretation of B.C. syrah. Sold out.

87 Township 7 Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2004
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $13.90 Winery and LRS
Green apple, mineral, green melon aromas. Dry, round, elegant and fresh with some crisp acidity and a touch of oiliness. Green apple skin, mineral, grassy, green peach flavours. Nice finesse easy drinking style, if a touch green in the finish.

87 Township 7 White Meritage 2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $17.90 Winery and LRS
The Meritage is 100 barrel fermented and blends 33 per cent sémillon with 67 per cent sauvignon blanc. Look for oaky, vanilla, buttery notes with rich honey, mineral, chalky, canned grapefruit aromas and some attractive fig and waxy lanolin hints underneath. Round, soft, slightly fat style with vanilla, honey, mineral, buttery fig flavours and a touch of bitterness. Lacks integration at this point and a bit of and concentration. Less oak would perhaps better express the fruit. Good effort.