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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

FIZZ   87 Lindauer Brut N/V Chardonnay - Pinot Noir New Zealand BC $14.99 specialty listing; AB Exclusive to Hyatt Hotel; MB $0.00 Good continuous fine mousse.

FIZZ

 

87 Lindauer Brut N/V Chardonnay - Pinot Noir

New Zealand

BC $14.99 specialty listing; AB Exclusive to Hyatt Hotel; MB $0.00

Good continuous fine mousse. Green apple, grassy, light toasty, floral, citrus nose. Fresh, crisp, elegant palate with slightly foamy mousse. Sweet lemon, green apple skin, toasty, honey, peach pit flavours. Affordable, fun style.

 

WHITE

 

89 Cono Sur Gewurztraminer Limited Release 2005

Bio-Bio Valley, Chile

BC $10.99 specialty listing

Lovely ripe nose with honey, ginger, sausage, peach, spicy mineral nose. Very round, soft, ripe palate but quite dry and balanced. Spicy, citrus, sausage, honey, nectarine skin flavours with a slightly buttery, mineral finish with good acidity, intensity and length.

 

88 Torres Vina Esmeralda 2005 Moscatel - Gewürztraminer

Catalunya, Spain

BC $13.99 Specialty; QC $15.00; US $14.00 retail

Esmeralda dates back to 1961 when Torres began to experiment with European varieties not previously grown in Catalonia especially in the mountainous area of the Upper Penedès. It is always intense and floral on the nose mixing mineral, lemon oil and spicy, nectarine skin notes. This is the original summer sipper conceived by Miguel Torres long before the style was in fashion. This is a bright zesty white with lemon lime, lychee, green apple, quince and fruit cocktail undertones. Delicate yet capable of standing up to powerful spicy dishes. Try with calamari or mussels. The blend as always remains an 85/15 moscatel/gewürztraminer mix.

 

88 Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

AB $12.99 private wine shops; BC $14.95 specialty listing; NB $14.80; QC $15.30

If there is a more impressive sauvignon blanc under $15 I haven't tasted it. A mix of clones blends mineral and flint specks into this fresh clean bright white with tropical fruit and smoky/grassy apple fruit undertones. Fine intensity and length with persistent fruit on the finish. Good value.

 

87 Arrogant Frog Ribet White 2004 Chardonnay - Viognier

Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $13.99 speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs

A 60/40 blend of chardonnay and viognier with a leesy, mineral, butter, spicy nose flecked with ginger, peach skin and a touch of melon. Fresh, round, clean, crisp palate. Mineral, floral, grapefruit, ginger, honey, nectarine skin flavours. Tart and juicy with some elegance and persistence. Try with seafood pasta or Indian food.

 

87 Cono Sur Viognier Limited Release 2005

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $10.99

This wine goes from strength to strength and the price must be embarrassing to many other wines. The nose is full, spicy open and brimming with orange citrus notes. Only 40 per cent of the wine sees wood the rest is kept in stainless steel. The palate is fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours. Serve well chilled all summer this is patio superstar.

 

87 Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2004

South Eastern Australia, Australia

AB $14.00 private wine shops; BC $14.99 specialty listing; MB $13.99; NB $14.99; NF $14.99; NS $13.41; ON $13.10; SK $15.98

Spicy, grapefruit, lees, vanilla, buttery, waxy aromas with an earthy, floral, fruity note similar to hops. Round, fresh, crisp palate with a touch of oiliness. Green apple skin, bread-y, floral, grapefruit, lees and vanilla flavours. Zippy, warm finish with nutty lees. Solid value.

 

87 Miguel Torres Santa Digna Selección Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Valle del Curicó, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.99 Specialty; ON $12.95 Vintages; US $9.50 retail

Fresh citrus mineral, lime rind with bits of butter, melon and gooseberry. Clean and elegant style reflecting the no wood edict for this Curicó fruit. The flavour is mix of grapefruit, mineral, gooseberry, green apples and bell pepper. Fresh and zippy. Think oysters here. Fine value.

 

87 Santa Julia Viognier 2005

Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $10.90 specialty listing

Very floral, spicy, buttery, mineral, honey, sausage aromas. Ripe, round, fresh, crisp palate with a slight oiliness. Good mineral, honey, butter, citrus, spicy, creamsicle flavours. Good intensity and balance if a touch hot. Great value.

 

87 Vina Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc Coleccion Privada 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $13.99 specialty listing

Another solid edition to add to the under $14 category. Fresh and bright on the nose with gooseberry, green apple skin and lime rind aromas and flavours. Fresh, well-balanced and stylish Casablanca sauvignon. A perfect match for summer seafoods.

 

86 Benjamin Nieto Chardonnay 2005

Mendoza, Argentina

AB $14.25 private wine shops; BC $12.99 speculative listing - Free House Wines & Spirits

An un-oaked style. Mineral, green apple skin, floral, slightly smoky nose with a touch of butter. Dry, round, crisp style with green apple, floral, peach pit, lime, stony mineral flavours with a touch of nectarine skin and lemon peel in the finish. Fresh style, a good seafood wine with some elegance. Excellent value.

 

86 Cono Sur Reserve Chardonnay 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

CDN $15.00 retail; ON $13.95 Vintages

The Reserve is a blend of Casablanca estates fruit that gets a 60 40 wood versus stainless steel ferment where the wood is 90 new French oak. The style is softer and a bit more open showing ripe melon, mineral and citrus lime rind notes. Creamy but less well defined in the mouth and showing some dryness in the back end. Solid if unexciting compared to the aromatic varietals made at Cono Sur.

 

86 Cono Sur Riesling Limited Release 2005

Bio-Bio Valley, Chile

CDN $9.99 retail

Fresh bright simple fresh white wine that is stainless steel fermented. The Limited Release or entry level riesling boasts decent aromatics of fresh citrus fruit with alight mineral streak. Clean easy sipping white that delivers for the price. It's early days for Bio-Bio region but I'm sure you will hear more from this southern region.

 

86 Fetzer Pinot Gris Valley Oaks 2004

California, United States

AB $12.95 private wine shops; BC $0.00 general listing; ON $13.95; QC $14.95

Floral, mineral, quince, lemon, candied apple. Round, soft, slightly sweet entry with lees, mineral, floral, citrus, baked apple flavours. Solid commercial style for any occasion.

 

86 Fetzer Sauvignon Blanc Valley Oaks 2004

California, United States

AB $12.95 private wine shops; BC $13.99 general listing; ON $13.95; QC $14.95

Leesy, seaweed, grapefruit rind, grassy nose. Round, soft, slightly oily palate with grassy, bell pepper, grapefruit rind and lime rind flavours. Solid but could use a bit more fruit. We love the new screwcap and the fruit that is mostly Mendocino and Monterey, too bad the label bears the mostly meaningless California moniker.

 

86 Finca Los Primos Chardonnay 2005

San Rafael, General Alvear, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $8.95 specialty listing

Always good value Los Primos seems to capitalise on the inherent resources of Argentina's vineyards. Look for a fresh version of chardonnay with green apple skin and peachy background notes. Dry and fresh with more green apple skin and lime rind in the finish. Solid simple straight up chardonnay at a great price.

 

86 Rudolf Muller Riesling Chardonnay 2004 Riesling - Chardonnay

Pfalz, Germany

AB $9.95 private wine shops; BC $11.99 specialty listing

Green apple, citrus rind, mineral, peach, slightly grassy nose with a touch of matchstick. Fresh, round, elegant style with delicate red apple, chalky, melon, citrus flavours with a touch of butter. A touch lean on the finish but a fine food wine for the summer and Asian cuisine. Good value.

 

86 Long Flat White Semillon Sauvignon 2005 Sémillon - Sauvignon Blanc

South Eastern Australia, Australia

AB $9.99 private wine shops; BC $11.99 General; MB $10.15

Floral, peachy, buttery, lime rind, grapefruit aromas. Soft, round, slightly flat entry with a bit of residual sugar. Oily, grapefruit, lime, waxy, baked apple and mineral flavours. Try with seafood or serve solo on the deck.

 

86 Moillard Viognier Huges le Juste 2004

Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $11.75 specialty listing

Quiet floral spicy nose with some honey and toast notes. Piquant on the palate with oily citrus green peach fruit. Simple but effective viognier that most should enjoy. Good value for an introductory European viognier.

 

86 St. Hallett Poacher's Blend Semillon Sauvignon 2005 Sémillon - Sauvignon Blanc

Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

AB $11.95 private wine shops; BC $12.95 specialty; MB $11.95; ON $14.15

Floral, sulphur, fig, grapefruit, peachy, honey nose. Very soft, flat, somewhat sweet entry with canned grapefruit, honey, buttery, lime and butter flavours. Solid, zesty finish. A bit sweeter than the past edition but good fruit.

 

86 Stone Cellars Chardonnay 2004

California, United States

AB $14.00 private wine shops; BC $14.99 Specialty; MB $12.99 private wine shops; NF $14.82; NS $15.71; ON $13.95; PEI $15.95; SK $14.95

Beringer was the original name in chardonnay in the 1970s and '80s but that style, rich warm and oaky has long since faded. Stone Cellars in on track with a cleaner fresher, albeit soft with ripe fruit style that is more in tune with today's tastes. I like the creamy lees characters that help balance off the citrus and acidity. A crowd pleaser they recommend with pork tenderloin.

 

86 Valdivieso Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.95 specialty listing

Bell pepper, honey, jalapeno, kiwi and mineral aromas. Very elegant, fresh, dry palate with chalky, mineral, citrus rind, gooseberry, and grapefruit flavours. Some lime and grapefruit rind on the finish. Elegant style for seafood.

 

86 Yellow Tail Cabernet - Merlot 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.95 specialty listing

Open spicy, menthol/mineral nose with chocolate tobacco, earthy, gamey vanilla notes flecked with garrigue and blueberry. Floral raspberry/cassis cough syrup fruit flavours with an oaky warm peppery finish. Soft round, ripe and easy to sip all add up to the Yellowtail style. Consistent style and value.

 

86 ZED Sauvignon Blanc 2005 2005

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

BC $14.99 specialty listing

Big bell pepper, canned asparagus, gooseberry nose with some grapefruit underneath. Dry, fresh, crisp palate with good texture. Mineral, grapefruit rind, gooseberry, green apple skin and lemon flavours. Crisp, slightly oily finish. A bit more aggressive, herbaceous style but well balanced. Very Marlborough and well priced. Bring on the mussels.

 

ROSÉ

 

88 Torres De Casta Rose 2005 Garnacha - Cariñena

Catalunya, Spain

BC $12.86 specialty listing; US $10.00 retail

Now available in screwcap the De Casta rosado a blend of garnacha tinta and cariñena, has a light cherry colour and a wonderful clean fresh mineral, cherry, black raspberry nose flecked with almond, aromas. Ripe, round, crisp and balanced with a touch of sweetness. Cherry, buttery, raspberry, floral flavours. Good intensity, finesse and flavour profile, a great value and tasty to boot. The Torres folks suggest you drink it with recipes that use tomato or tomato sauce, including Italian pasta.

 

87 La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2005 Grenache - Shiraz - Mourvèdre - Cinsault

Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France

AB $12.00; BC $13.87 specialty listing; ON $10.95 general listing; QC $13.90

Attractive, pale raspberry colour. Very floral, raspberry, strawberry, mineral, citrus and rhubarb nose. Dry, round, soft, easy style with earthy, mineral, floral, raspberry and sour cherry flavours. Good balance if a bit lean. Delicate and dry for summer.

 

87 Zunio Rose 2005 Pinot Noir - Syrah - Zinfandel

California, United States

AB $12.99 private wine shops; BC $13.87 specialty listing

Bright orange/cherry red colour. Dry appealing earthy undertones with a softish under belly and a crisp clean finish. This stylish rose does not depend on sugar to make the grade. Certainly capable of accompanying a wide range of food. A pleasant dry rosé in a sea of sweet pink wines. Good value.

 

86 Château la Tour d'Aigues Poeme Rosé 2005 Syrah - Grenache

Côtes du Lubéron, Provence, South of France, France

BC $12.90 specialty listing

This is Euro-style rose made from grenache and syrah. Lean fresh citrus cherry tones with a leafy undercurrent. The entry is dry and crisp with more mineral, earthy citrus flavours. A bit skinny for sipping but perfect for grilled chicken or pork. The price is very attractive.

 

RED

 

87 Benjamin Nieto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Mendoza, Argentina

AB $14.25 private wine shops; BC $12.99 speculative listing - Free House Wines & Spirits

Chocolate, cassis, spicy, gamey, peppery, leather aromas. Ripe, round, soft and supple entry. Cassis, peppery, spicy, black olive, smoky, gamey, savoury flavours. Good concentration and balance, and fair value.

 

87 Castillo de Monseran Garnacha 2004

Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

BC $9.95; QC $9.05

Gamey, meaty, spicy, floral, black cherry aromas with some leather and barnyard notes. Soft, round, supple forward style. Spicy, black cherry, plum, licorice, meaty, peppery flavours. Dry, slightly hot finish but has good fruit and acidity. Drink now, great value everyday red.

 

87 Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2005

Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $9.99 general listing

A new year from Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2005 and it's still selling for less than $10. Cono Sur is releasing several new high-end pinots but at this price, with these flavours it's hard to walk past this bottle. Spicy, licorice root and black cherries all with a touch of earth. By this by the case but be sure to decant each bottle and serve it blind. No one will believe you can buy pinot at this price.

 

87 Pepperwood Grove Syrah 2004

California, United States

AB $12.95 private wine shops; BC $14.95 specialty listing

Smoky, rootsy, peppery, meaty, black berry nose. Round, soft, slightly sweet entry with ripe tannins. Juicy plum, black cherry, peppery, spicy, licorice flavours. A bit tart and warm but has very good fruit and intensity for the money. Solid value.

 

87 Rubens Tempranillo 2004

La Mancha, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

BC $14.99 specialty listing

Peppery, spicy, tobacco, cedar, meaty aromas with floral, cherry, resin and leather underneath. Dry, round, soft and supple with red licorice, cherry, spicy, floral, orange peel flavours and a smoky, leather, tobacco finish. Good fruit and balance, ready to roll.

 

87 Ruffino Fonte Al Sole Sangiovese di Toscana IGT 2003 Sangiovese - Merlot

Tuscany, Italy

BC $14.49 specialty listing

Medium dark colour with fragrant, appealing nose. The style is open and expressive for simple Chianti but that's the power of the early, warm 2003 vintage. More ripeness and richness on the palate with pleasant black fruit mushroom earth and cherry flavours. Very attractive style. Excellent value fine vintage. A huge step up in quality from 2002. Stock up.

 

86 Arrogant Frog Ribet Red 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot

Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $13.99 specialty listing

French wineries having fun, indeed poking fun at themselves, is not something we see too often. Arrogant Frog Ribet Red is just that and it has a snappy red screw cap and label to boot. The blend is cabernet and merlot the source is the earthy dry smoky, supple fruit of the Languedoc. This is hamburger / barbecue red that's got, ahem, legs, frogs legs. Ribet ribet.

 

86 Benjamin Nieto Malbec 2005

Mendoza, Argentina

AB $14.25 private wine shops; BC $12.99 speculative listing - Free House Wines & Spirits

Spicy, prune, smoky, meaty, black cherry and garrigue nose with a waxy, cedar streak. Dry, round entry with a touch of acidity. Earthy, meaty, black cherry, chocolate, spice and cedar flavours. Solid food style wine but could use a bit more fruit intensity.

 

86 Castello Banfi Col-di-Sasso Cabernet Sauvignon & Sangiovese 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Sangiovese

Tuscany, Italy

BC $14.95 specialty listing; ON $12.95 Vintages; QC $14.95

Cherry, gamey, spicy, sausage, floral, cassis aromas. Soft, round, supple, easy drinking dry red. Look for licorice, smoky, cherry, cassis, and peppery, minty flavours. Simple, smooth style but youthful with some light, dry tannins showing. Good for grilled meats and pasta.

 

86 Chateau de la Meuliere 2001

Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France

BC $11.99 (375 ml) speculative listing - The Seacove Group; BC $22.95 speculative listing - The Seacove Group

Peppery, tobacco, smoky, cherry, leafy, olive aromas with some cherry and cassis at the end. Soft, round, dry, elegant palate with light, tight, cedar-y tannins. Cherry, tobacco, cedar, peppery, spicy, olive flavours. A simple, elegant style but not big on fruit. Drink now or over the next year.

 

86 Dancing Bull Zinfandel 2004

Sonoma County, California, United States

BC $14.99 specialty listing; ON $15.95 Vintages

Soft smoky, briary, stewed blackberry nose. The entry is very soft and round with stewed plummy fruit flecked with licorice. This is simple everyday zin you can serve liberally around the barbecue. Ready to drink.

 

86 Finca Los Primos Malbec 2005

San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $8.95 Specialty

Black cherry, rootsy, licorice, savoury aromas. Round, rich, warm supple palate with black cherry, smoky, savoury, licorice and tobacco flavours. A touch rustic but has good fruit and intensity. Great value.

 

86 Humberto Canale Malbec 2004

Alto Valle del Río Negro, Patagonia, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2

BC $0.00 speculative listing - Vinterra Wines

Smoky, bay leaf, resiny, leather, peppery, black cherry nose with a touch of orange and barnyard. Round, dry, chalky palate but supple with cedar, smoky, licorice, resiny, peppery, spicy flavours. Sound pizza and hamburger red with some balance.

 

86 Le Bombarde Cannonau di Sardegna 2004

Sardinia, Italy

BC $14.99 specialty listing

Similar to last year's with meaty, peppery, spicy, smoky, licorice root aromas mixed with saddle leather, menthol and black cherry. Soft, round, dry and warm with raspberry, spicy, peppery, clove, menthol, root beer flavours. Solid finish with a unique flavour profile. Try with beef or duck.

 

86 Yellow Tail Shiraz 2005

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.95 specialty listing

Huge floral jasmine nose with compost and flecks of pepper. Big soft, simple, round textures with fruity cherry/chocolate flavours. Bigger and smoother than previous editions which should continue to attract a crowd. Yellowtail has stayed the course when it comes to its ripe, sweet, attractive, fruity style and will no doubt be rewarded by its legions of fan.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.