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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

FIZZ   86 Valdivieso Extra Brut N/V Chardonnay - Pinot Noir Chile BC $14.00 speculative listing - Vinterra Wine Merchants Almond, nutty, toasty, baked pear, marzipan aromas with a touch of peach.

July 1/08 - Top Import Wine Picks in Canada

FIZZ

 

86 Valdivieso Extra Brut N/V Chardonnay - Pinot Noir

Chile

BC $14.00 speculative listing - Vinterra Wine Merchants

Almond, nutty, toasty, baked pear, marzipan aromas with a touch of peach. Medium mousse with lots of acidity. Lemon, nutty, toasty, baked apple, earthy, sour cherry flavours. More of a food/tapas-style sparkler with the elevated acidity. (AG-ST)

 

WHITE

 

88 Alamos Chardonnay 2006

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $15.75 fine wine boutiques, ON $13.95 Vintages

The Catena folks continue to hit the mark with this mid-range (price) high-altitude chardonnay has a super cool mineral style with bright fruit and attractive creamy textures. Citrus melon, red apple fruit fill the mid-palate of this stylish white that is reminiscent of some of the new wines coming out of Sonoma Coast. (AG)

 

88 Domaines Astruc 'dA' Muscat Sec 2005

Limoux, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $0.00 speculative listing - Charton Hobbs

Big spicy, floral, ginger, nectarine, lemon oil, muscat fruit nose. Crisp, round, slightly oily but elegant style with mineral, lemon oil, ginger, honey, peach skin, acacia flavours. Attractive, richer style, try with butter chicken. (AG-ST)

 

88 Mills Reef Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand

AB $28.00 fine wine shops

Hawkes Bay sauvignon always gets a fresh reception in Canada where its slightly tempered herbaceous fruit flavours can entice. Gooseberry and passion fruit are the main components here with a dusting of honey, green apple in the finish. A small portion of the wine is fermented in oak to supply texture to what is otherwise a fresh and vivacious wine made for immediate drinking with a variety of fresh seafood dishes. (AG-ST)

 

88 Quara Torrontés 2007

Cafayate, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Northern Region, Argentina

BC $13.00 Everything Wine

Huge spicy, floral, lemon oil, marzipan, nectarine aromas. Rich, round, moderately dry palate. Fresh with lemon oil, orange, ginger, spicy, mineral flavours with some nectarine skin and floral notes on the finish. Good intensity, try with Indian food like a Vindaloo or korma. (AG-ST)

 

88 Wakefield St. Andrews Riesling 2005

Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia

BC $40.00 estimated retail, BC $0.00

Petrol, slate, mineral, floral, lime rind aromas. Dry, delicate, round palate with medium acidity. Slate, petrol, lime rind, green apple skin, spicy, ginger and butter flavours. A somewhat more austere style that would benefit from food accompaniment. (AG-ST)

 

87 Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.00 specialty listing, AB $12.00, MB $11.30, NS $12.50, ON $11.40, SK $12.99

The Casillero sauvignon is harvested from several cool sites and then fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. the result is a super fresh style with bright gooseberry scented notes and flecks of honey and citrus and mineral. The palate is refreshing with more gooseberry grapefruit, mineral and citrus notes. The finish is crisp and round the intensity perfect for the price. The perfect shellfish/pasta wine and it's excellent value too. (AG)

 

87 Chat-en-Oeuf Vin Blanc de Pays d'Oc 2007 Grenache Blanc - Marsanne - Roussanne - Vermentino

Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

BC $14.00 specialty listing

I was a fan of the red "cat-on-the-egg" and I am equally impressed with the white. The nose is suitably aromatic given its mix of grenache blanc, marsanne, roussanne and vermentino. More than that there is a thread of minerality and bright acidity that simply makes it fun to drink especially with seafood and tapas style appetizers. Great value too. Stock up. (AG-ST)

 

87 Lello Douro Branco 2007 Malvasia Fina - Gouveio - Viosinho

Douro Valley, Northern Portugal, Portugal

BC $0.00 speculative listing - Vinterra Wine Merchants

Very floral, lemon, mineral, pear, juicy red apple aromas. Crisp, dry, elegant, somewhat juicy palate with pear, floral, mineral, almond, citrusy, red apple flavours. Crisp and fresh, solid seafood wine with some intensity. (AG-ST)

 

87 Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2007

Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $12.50 specialty listing

Pinot gris/grigio in Argentina makes sense given the Italians in Mendoza but this one is made by the French connection Jacques and Francois Lurton. Plenty of mineral, nectarine aromas move on the super crisp, dry palate that calls for oysters or clams or sushi. Very fine value at less than $13. (AG)

 

87 Mirassou Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2004

Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States

US $30.00

Spicy, guava, butter, vanilla, baked apple, citrus and light floral aromas. Round, dry, slightly oily, warm texture. Butter, lees, earthy, mineral, citrus, apple skin, pineapple flavours. Decent acidity but finish is a bit flat and hot. (ST)

 

87 Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $14.99 speculative listing - Winspeer

Floral, grapefruit rind, mineral, passion fruit aromas with a touch of lemon. Round, ripe, elegant and fresh with grapefruit, bell pepper, grassy, passion fruit and light asparagus flavours. A bit on the herbaceous side but good finesse and balance. Terrific value at this price. (AG-ST)

 

87 Sauvignon Republic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

US $18.00 srp

Like the previous version, the '07 is intense with bits of canned asparagus and grassy, mineral, smoky notes. The attack is dry with citrus canned jalapeno, and pungent, tropical grapefruit and gooseberry notes with a touch of asparagus. A boisterous version of the varietal that Marlborough appears to have little problem turning out every year best with mussels, other shellfish and goat cheese. (AG-ST)

 

87 Wakefield Riesling Clare Valley 2007

Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia

BC $0.00

Lemon oil, ginger, marzipan, lime, floral, mineral nose. Dry, delicate, fresh style with just a touch of sweetness. Floral, maraschino, petrol, lemon oil, green apple skin flavours. Solid, if a bit lean on the finish, although there is a long fruity aftertaste. More of a food style wine rather than a sipper. (AG-ST)

 

87 Wakefield Promised Land Riesling 2007

South Australia, Australia

BC $15.00 estimated retail

Peach, floral, honey, lime, mineral aromas. Round, fresh, crisp, off-dry entry with some orange, lime, green apple, chalky, guava, mineral flavours. A tad warm on the finish but a good fruity, juicy style with a crisp edge. (AG-ST)

 

87 Wakefield Promised Land Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Sémillon - Sauvignon Blanc

Adelaide Hills, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide (including Mt Lofty Ranges, Fleurieu and Barossa, South Australia, Australia

BC $15.00 estimated retail

Bright and fresh aromas of tropical fruit streaked with bits of lime and citrus and green apple skin. Just a touch of lemongrass and with more tropical melon notes on the palate. Clean simple styling. Good value here in a versatile food wine. (AG-ST)

 

86 Baron Patrick Ladoucette Les Deux Tours Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Touraine, Loire, France

US $18.00 ABC Wines

Soft elegant style of sauvignon. Not a lot of colour with a moderately expressive grapefruit nose and bits of citrus fruit with floral aromas. Dry fresh, lively, mid-palate with good length and finish. Solid mid-week seafood wine that sees no oak. (AG-ST)

86 Devil's Rock Pfalz Riesling 2006

Pfalz, Germany

BC $12.00 specialty listing

Petrol, slate, green apple skin, lemon oil, perfumy aromas. Creamy, round, off dry palate with mineral, slate, petrol, lemon, buttery flavours. Finish is a bit warm and quite tart. A food wine for the summer patio. Good value. (AG-ST)

 

86 Lindemans South Africa Chardonnay 2006

South Africa

BC $12.99 general listing, AB $12.99 private wine shops, MB $12.99, NB $12.99, NF $12.99, NS $12.99

From a country whose export wines constantly disappoint this writer comes an inexpensive tasty floral, peach-scented chardonnay with cantaloupe, spicy lees and buttery notes made by Australians. It has a round, ripe, fresh, clean palate with buttery, orange creamsicle, melon, peach, buttery flavours and a touch of sweetness on the finish. A fruity, consumer driven style but well balanced. Great value. (AG-ST)

 

86 Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2007

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine shops, MB $11.50, NB $12.40, NF $12.50, NS $12.50, ON $11.50, SK $13.00

What you smell is what you taste is this entry-level sauvignon that hits all the right notes for its price point. Green apple, citrus, floral, aromas preview a similar green apple, lemon and less palate with a touch of grass. Cool clean, fresh and affordable for white meats and seafood. (AG-ST)

 

86 Moselland Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett 2006

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

BC $13.00 specialty listing

Light Vaseline, petrol, green apple skin, slate aromas. Fresh, bright, clean and quite dry with good acidity. Slate, Vaseline, mineral, lime, green apple, floral flavours. A solid introductory style riesling at a fair price. (AG-ST)

 

86 Pascual Toso Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Maipú, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $9.99 exclusive to Liquor Depot, MB $13.00, QC $13.60

Lemon, grapefruit, gooseberry, grassy, melon aromas. Round, rich, crisp palate with a touch of sweetness. Grapefruit rind, lemon, melon, butter and vanilla flavours. Good solid, flavourful style. Getting pricey for the quality. (AG-ST)

 

86 Santa Rita Chardonnay 120 2007

Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $12.00 General, AB $9.75, MB $9.90, ON $9.45, SK $11.95

I like the way the Chileans have dialled in each varietal. The "120" chardonnay is now fresh, relying on grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavours to carry the mid-palate. The entry is soft and round (approachable) but with the interest of mineral, peach pit, citrus and grapefruit flavours. Almost sauvignon-like but very food friendly. (AG-ST)

 

86 Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2007

Valle del Lontué, Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $11.00 general listing, AB $10.75 private wine shops, QC $11.95

The workhorse Santa Rita sauvignon benefits from the hard work done at the reserve and the from the Leyda project. The 120 sauvignon is an 85/15 blend of sauvignon fruit from Maule and Casablanca and it is all stainless steel fermented. The 2007 is now under screwcap making it almost untouchable in its price category for value. Look for fresh citrus bell pepper aromas flecked with grassy, chalky grapefruit notes. Well-made, affordable modern sauvignon. (AG)

 

86 Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2006

Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $10.95 private wine shops, ON $9.60 general listing

Similar to last year the aromas mix floral notes with ripe peach and pear. The entry is smooth with ripe almost sweet flavours of honey, pineapples melon flecked with minerals. A good wine that really needs a spicy dish to tame the sweet notes. Think Indian or Thai. (AG-ST)

 

86 Yellow Tail Pinot Grigio 2007

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $12.99 specialty listing

Some Yellow Tail labels can really surprise and this pinot grigio is one of them. Clean fresh, crisp and DRY, with just a dusting of lime rind and passion fruit make it tropical but in the end more grigio than you might think. More subtle and citrus than you might expect for price. The synthetic cork is a pain to pull out of the bottle but if they ever have the guts to go screwcap they could sell a lot of this wine. (AG)

 

86 Wakefield Chardonnay 2007

South Australia, Australia

BC $15.00 estimated retail

Mango, leesy, lemon, spicy, buttery, baked apple nose. Round, slightly oily, somewhat sweet entry that is a bit warm with moderate acidity. Pineapple, buttery, vanilla, leesy, spicy, citrus rind flavours. Solid but with a sweet and sour edge on the finish. (AG-ST)

 

86 Wakefield Promised Land Unwooded Chardonnay 2007

Adelaide Hills, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide (including Mt Lofty Ranges, Fleurieu and Barossa, South Australia, Australia

BC $15.00 estimated retail

Bright open honeyed melon fruit nose with a touch of green apple skin. Fresh entry with a sweet and sour palate. Short simple warm finish. Simple everyday chardonnay. (AG-ST)

 

86 Woodbridge Chardonnay 2006

California, United States

BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $13.50, ON $13.95, QC $15.55

Following the previous year's footsteps a dash of lees and minerality really lifts this inexpensive chardonnay up a notch. The palate is round and buttery with nutty baked apple fruit and just a hint of sweetness. Solid for the price. (AG)

 

PINK

 

87 Croft Pink N/V Tinta Roriz - Tinta Barroca - Touriga Franca - Touriga Nacional

Portugal

EU $10.00 srp in euros

Fun light raspberry colour. Spicy, licorice, black cherry, fig, green tea leaf, ginger aromas. Round, moderately sweet, medium acidity, warm palate. Elegant with tobacco, spicy, licorice, fig, cherry, peppery, black olive flavours. Easy style with a bit less fruit intensity than ruby style. (AG-ST)

 

87 Domaine Le Pive Gris 2007 Grenache Noir - Merlot - Cabernet Franc

Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

BC $14.99 specialty listing

Domaine Le Pive, from the unlikely Vin de Pays des Sables du Golfe du Lion (quick grab an atlas), better yet just drink the wine. When you think of Southern French rosé this it in all its glory, albeit a tad sweeter. The blend is a mix of grenache noir with merlot and cabernet franc. The colour is spot on pink-y/orange with a very aromatic nose if red fruits and dried herbs. The palate is fresh with strawberry citrus leafy notes and a dusting of sweet fruit in the finish. There is just enough acidity to sets of the sweet fruit and keep the finish fresh. Buy this one by the case and party on. (AG-ST)

 

RED

 

89 Kaiken Malbec 2005

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.00 Everything Wine, AB $17.00 private wine shops, MB $13.00, ON $15.00, US $10.00 suggested retail

Wow texture texture, texture. Chilean master winemaker Aurelio Montes had to go to Argentina, hence "Kaiken," named after the wild goose that flies back and forth over the Andes between Chile and Argentina, but this malbec is simply to delicious . Rich, savoury, elegant flavours streaked with vanilla licorice, chocolate, black cherry jam and cardamom mark the palate of this version of Argentina's signature varietal. Glossy, sleek and yet restrained this is a real bargain for consumers. (AG-ST)

 

88 Salamandra 2006

Castilla-Leon, Spain

BC $15.00

Spain, number one in vineyards but only number three in production. Love the freshness in this dry red with its smoky, meaty, red cherry fruit undertones. This is a wine drinkers red, with dry earthy plummy fruit pick on both sides of the Duero in la Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Grilled beef, lamb kebabs or chicken should subdue the youthful tannins at the dinner table. Impressive value in a dry red wine that is aged a mere three months in French oak. (AG-ST)

 

87 Johnny Q Shiraz Viognier 2006 Shiraz - Viognier

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $15.00

Open intense, floral, peppery, black fruit nose that wafts out of the glass. Similar dark fruit flavours with bits of liquorice and spicy plum fruit with warm peppery floral finish with just a twist of dry, leathery tannins. Think veal chop. (AG-ST)

 

87 LoTengo Malbec 2006

Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.00 specialty listing

LoTengo consistently offers up a slightly darker fruit aromas and flavours mixing smoke and bacon with plums, black cherry and light savoury liquorice elements. Solid quality here for the price in a rustic red. (AG-ST)

 

87 Pascual Toso Malbec 2006

Maipú, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine shops, MB $11.99, ON $0.00

Another year another solid malbec from Toso. Rich and savoury with plenty of sweet ripe liquorice and black fruit. On the palate it's smooth warm and fat with black cherry, menthol and liquorice notes. Good value in an inexpensive well made malbec. Bring on the steaks. (AG-ST)

 

87 Tormaresca Neprica 2006 Negroamaro - Primitivo - Cabernet Sauvignon

Apulia, Italy

BC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $12.95 private wine shop, SK $14.97

Rustic meaty, floral, tobacco, licorice, peppery, black cherry aromas. Rich, full bodied style with some light tannins. Peppery, meaty, floral, black cherry jam, resin, tobacco, cooked carrot flavours. Finish is warm and a touch fresh. Good solid barbeque red. (AG-ST)

 

87 Valcanto Syrah 2005

Almansa, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

BC $14.00 specialty listing

This will be an easy hit with most consumers. It's 100% syrah that gets 4 months ageing in American oak barrels so it's more Oz generous, than French peppery, but it remains a bit savoury and well, Spanish. The textures are super soft and slippery with plummy black olive, dried herb, meaty chocolate aromas and flavours. Super ripe and ready to drink. (AG-ST)

 

87 Wakefield Shiraz 2006

Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia

NS $16.00, ON $18.00

Spicy, rooty, resin, blueberry, black berry, bay leaf, peppery, cardamom nose. Round, dry, supple, fresh acidity palate with vanilla, coffee, peppery, licorice root, plum jam, orange peel flavours. Very warm, tart finish with light tannins. Solid but needs food. A bit hot and bitter at the end. (AG-ST)

 

87 Woop Woop Shiraz 2006

South Eastern Australia, Australia

BC $15.00 specialty listing

Spicy, black berry, peppery, rooty, leather, aromas with a touch of compost and menthol. Soft, round, rich, ripe palate with an unctuous texture and a touch of sweetness with fresh acidity. Black cherry jam, plum, spicy, menthol, licorice, peppery flavours. Somewhat hot finish but there's lots of fruit intensity if you like the style. An improvement over past editions. Closure is a weird plastic cap cork. (AG-ST)

 

86 Bisonte Cabernet Sauvignon Crianza 2005

Alto Valle del Río Negro, Patagonia, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.66 speculative listing - Patagonia Imports Ltd.

Earthy, iodine, peppery, cedar, floral, light cassis aromas. Dry, round, slightly lean but elegant palate. Peppery, coffee, earthy, cassis, tobacco, rooty flavours. Good balance and intensity in a somewhat French style edition. Solid value. (AG)

 

86 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2006 Syrah - Mourvedre - Viognier

Western Cape, South Africa

BC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $10.00 private wine shops, NF $14.00, NS $14.00, ON $14.50, QC $16.00

The Wolftrap blend has altered over the years the current blend is a mix syrah, mourvèdre and viognier. The result is that murky smoky animal nose with floral bits. The entry is soft and round with smoky, cherry, blueberry mineral flavours flecked with pepper earth and leather. Best with grilled meats, our choicer would be hamburger. (AG-ST)

 

86 Circus Malbec 2006

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $13.00 speculative listing - David Herman & Son, AB $12.00 private wine stores

Bodegas Escorihuela Gascon are the folks behind Circus another round soft inexpensive savoury Argentine malbec. The fruit flavours are dark along the blackberry, black plum line with plenty of liquorice and a hint of tar. Classic steak wine or just about anything grilled. Warm finish. Good value. (AG-ST)

 

86 Finca Flichman Malbec Oak Aged 2007

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $10.99 specialty listing

Maybe the best of recent vintages for this earthy, smoky red. Look for plenty of soft, smooth edged peppery fruit with bits of liquorice. This is good value red wine you can serve liberally around the barbecue or with pizza, chicken or spaghetti. (AG)

 

86 Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec Oak Aged 2007

Mendoza, Argentina

BC $14.00 speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs, ON $10.00 Vintages

There isn't too much Misterio about this malbec. Soft round and definitely ripe it's a drier version of yellow tail with earthy, black fruit flavours. The finish is spicy and dry with a small amount of rustic tannins. A solid hamburger /barbecued ribs red at an affordable price. (AG)

 

86 Los Cardos Malbec 2006

Ugarteche District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

BC $13.85 specialty listing, AB $12.95 private wine shops

Typically peppery with sweet mocha/chocolate, leather, and black fruit aromas and flavours. On the palate it comes up drier and firmer than you might expect with more smoky leather, chocolate cherry, roasted mushroom notes and the customary savoury thread. Should be just fine with most grilled meats and/or poultry. (AG-ST)

 

86 Morandé Pionero Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Rosé 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.00 Private Wine Shops

The Pionero rosé is a mix of cabernet sauvignon and syrah pressed off after a few hours of skin contact. Look for fresh tangy acidity on the palate subduing any sense of overt sweetness. There is more strawberry cherry fruit behind and a touch of savoury in the finish. Serve well chilled with grilled prawns. Good value at $13. (AG-ST)

 

86 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir 2006

Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

CDN $25.00 estimated retail

Mocha, espresso, black cherry, spicy, licorice root, vanilla aromas. Soft, round, full palate with good acidity balance. Coffee, mineral, black cherry, vanilla, licorice, resin, compost flavours. Balanced but too much smoky oak that sits on fairly low pinot character. (AG-ST)

 

86 Redtree Petit Sirah 2005

California, United States

BC $14.00

Most red wine drinkers will like the rich, liquorice, floral, smoky, blueberry notes in petit sirah and it's the story here. Soft and warm there are no edges to offend. Best with ribs or other charred meat dishes for the grill. (AG-ST)

 

86 Terra Andina Carmenère 2007

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $13.00 speculative listing - Waldorf Wine Group, AB $12.00 private wine stores

Minty, coriander, tobacco leaf, black cherry, spicy, black olive aromas. Round, supple palate with coffee, spicy, peppery, minty, tobacco leaf, bay and cassis. Very warm, smooth finish but a bit acidic. (AG)

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.