Randy Ullom Winemaster

Earlier this year we caught up with winemaster Randy Ullom who is responsible for the overall direction and production of what is a huge array of wines.

Although the KJ wines are the primary focus of the group the company owns several other premium wineries in California including La Crema, Pepi and Camelot. Internationally it now boasts Calina from Chile; Tapiz from Argentina; Villa Arceno Chianti from Tuscany; and Yangarra Park from Australia.

Ullom's philosophy making high quality stylish wines permeates the winemaking team which is clings to the small winery, small -lot production mentality. There is one head winemaker with two assistants at every winery - one for red, one for white and altogether KJ has some thirty winemakers in the group.

Ullom say's that on a normal day they taste about 100 wines as they pursue the overall mandate to fully express each grapes varietal element and to obtain the maximum ripeness possible for fruit concentration.

KJ also owns a French oak stave mill to better control the production and quality of its numerous oak barrels. They also work directly with other barrel producers to control the quality, toasting, and styling of oak for their various wines. At a recent tasting in Vancouver, we were able to review a wide range of KJ wines sold across Canada.

TAPIZ, Argentina

The Tapiz winery is located at Mendoza and concentrates on producing wines produced from high altitude, low yielding vineyards by utilizing winemaking technology that emphasizes the terroir of the Andean foothills. KJ owns 2500 acres of land of which 280 are planted. There will be much more to come.

87 Tapiz 1999 Chardonnay

Mendoza Region, Argentina

Big fresh fruit marks the nose of this barrel fermented (French and American oak) and aged white. It's a friendly oaky wine with butter, melon and pear flavours. It's slightly woody and oily in the finish but fun to drink. BC $18.95, AB $13.95 ON $15.95 (WA)

83 Tapiz 1998 Malbec

Mendoza Region, Argentina

A blend of four vineyards mostly all old vines 50 to 65 years on average but up to 85 years. Leafy, tobacco, compost aromas preview a soft, round, forward red low in extract. Somewhat Euro-Bordeaux style but too vegetative in what is a very poor vintage. BC $18.95, AB $13.95, ON $15.95, (WA)

CALINA, Chile

Calina has approximately 2000 acres planted in Chile in four different vineyard areas south of Santiago at Maule, Itata, Casablanca and Rapel valleys. The company owns a state of the art winery in the Maule Valley where it processes individual lots of grapes from all of the regions.

88 Calina 1998 Chardonnay Reserve

Itata Valley, Chile

Ripe pear, melon and butter aromas with a touch of apple and mineral notes.  Round and well balanced with melon, pear, mineral and buttery flavours. Well made and very drinkable. Quite California like. BC $18.95, AB $13.95 ON $15.95, (WA)

87 Calina 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon

Central Valley, Chile

A blend of 50/40/10 Itata/Rapel/Maule fruit without using any Valley floor grapes. Look for an open ripe cassis, leafy, peppery, resiny aromas and peppery, chocolate flavours. Some dryness in the finish with light tannins and cherry, coffee, compost notes. BC $18.95, AB $13.95 (WA)

86 Calina 2000 Merlot Reserve

Maule Valley, Chile

Spicy, minty, sour cherry aromas with leather and green leafy elements. Soft and round in the mouth with plum flavours and a touch of leather and earth in the finish. Consumer friendly, fresh style. BC $18.95, AB $13.95 (WA)

KJ COLLAGE, California

The Collage labels are a blend of two complementary grape varieties from vineyards within the coastal appellations of Mendocino, Monterey, Sonoma, Napa and San Luis Obispo counties part of KJWE's 6700 acres of vines in California.

85 Collage 1999 Semillon-Chardonnay

California

A 60/40 blend of sémillon/chardonnay that was designed in the late '90s for the international market using Australia as model - hence the dual varietals. Grassy, melon, nutty fig aromas with a touch of butter mark the nose of this modified sémillon. It's a soft, fruit-forward, easy-to-drink white with buttery, melon, grapefruit flavours. BC $19.95, AB $15.95, ON $15.95, QB $17.95 (WA)

84 Collage 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz

California

A 60/40 blend of cabernet/shiraz again patterned after the successful Oz blend. Spicy, black pepper aromas preview a slightly drier red with green beans, pepper, and earth flavours. A simple red that is overpriced for the quality. BC $19.95, AB $15.95, ON $15.95, ON $15.95, QB $17.95 (WA)

85 Collage 1998 Zinfandel - Shiraz

California

A 76/24 blend of zinfandel/shiraz could only be made in California. Look for spicy, peppery, licorice aromas, berry jam and tarry tones on the nose and light peppery, earthy, spicy berry jam flavours. A lightweight quaffer with a soft, simple finish. BC $19.95, AB $15.95, ON $15.95, QB $17.95 (WA)

KJ VINTNER'S RESERVE, California

The Vintner's Reserve wines are sourced primarily from North Coast hillside vineyards and are blended for fruit quality and current consumption.

85 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1998 Pinot Noir

California

The grapes are cold soaked for two to five days before fermentation. Look for soya, compost, black cherry aromas in a light and round pinot with angular plum jam, soya and forest floor flavours that reminds us of the old Monterey style. Soft but not a lot of fruit. BC $24.95, AB $19.95, ON $22.95 (WA)

87 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1999 Sauvignon Blanc

California

The style is all Kendall-Jackson in the 90/10 blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon that is 90 per cent fermented in stainless steel fruit and 10 per cent in new American oak. Ripe fruit aromas and flavours reminiscent of melon, grapefruit and butter mix easily with mineral, grass and citrus rind notes in the background. Delicious easy-drinking style with a soft ripe fruit character. BC $19.95, AB $14.95 ON $16.95 (WA)

88 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1999 Chardonnay

California

The VR Chardonnay is mostly barrel fermented and aged for seven months in small oak - half French/half American. Look for leesy, mineral, melon aromas and toasted lees, vanilla, butter citrus and apple flavours. Delicious Monterey and Santa Barbara fruit that is well integrated with oak. Classic KJ. BC $25.95, AB $19.95, ON $22.95 (WA)

87 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1998 Syrah

California

Big earthy, peppery, sweaty game aromas with some blackberry jam. Slightly dry texture with similar flavours and a somewhat hot/alcoholic finish. Good effort but the fruit needs to be riper. Somewhat angular at the moment. Pricey. BC $34.95, AB $27.95, ON $30.00 (WA)

88 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon

California

The VR Cab is made with 50 percent Napa and the remainder from Sonoma and Mendocino. Look for spicy, peppery, blackberry aromas with some resin and barnyard and a touch of wax. Round and rich with soft tannins, has good blackberry, peppery, spicy, chocolate flavours. Long stylish red, good value. Ready-to-drink although it will keep easily through 2007. Fine value. BC $26.95, AB $20.95, ON $24.95 (WA)

KJ GRAND RESERVE

The Grand Reserve wines are the next step up in vineyard selection and barrel use with increased focus on flavour profiles from several coastal appellations with a high majority of French oak used. All wines are made from a blend of selected vineyards within California's cool coastal appellations.

88 Kendall-Jackson 1998 Grand Reserve Merlot

California

The best lots from Sonoma's Alexander Valley, Dry Creek and upper Russian River make for a cherry cola, spicy, peppery, minty coffee nose. Lush currant, black cherry fruit with understated spicy clove notes, cedar, mint and coffee makes for showy notes. Well balanced but needs 2-3 years to round out. BC $59.95, AB $47.95 (WA)

88 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon

California

Mostly French oak and Napa, Sonoma, and a splash of Mendocino fruit are the core of this label. Blackberry, waxy, cassis aromas with chocolate and a touch of barnyard invite you into the glass. This is a full flavoured cabernet that tastes of cherry, blackberry, smoky earth and vanilla. Round, forward and well balanced with good complexity. BC $65.95 AB $44.95 (WA)

90 Kendall-Jackson 1999 Grand Reserve Chardonnay

California

Mostly separate lots in French oak make for layers of tropical fruit, pear, apple and citrus complement by well integrated vanilla, spice, clove and smoke aromas. We like the wood restraint and its bright spicy apple, toasty lees, honey and citrus butter flavours. A simple California appellation doesn't do the wine justice. BC $47.90 AB $31.95, ON $40.00 (WA)

KJ SINGLE VINEYARD

Occasionally, exceptional vineyards that produce a unique and consistent quality are selected for separate bottling and form the Single Vineyard Series (Camelot Vineyard Chardonnay; Buckeye Cabernet and Merlot; Paradise Vineyard Chardonnay)

93 Kendall-Jackson 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Buckeye Vineyard

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California

Buckeye cab is a mountain red grown at 2400' above sea level and aged in 82 per cent French oak of which 40 per cent is new. The nose is sensational. Ripe blackberry, waxy, minty, peppery licorice aromas and some barnyard, blueberry violet tones. Very rich and round with ripe, soft, chewy tannins. Long, intense, cassis jam, earthy, peppery flavours and a big coffee, blackberry, olive and mint finish. A big intense hillside cabernet with great character. Very fine value. BC $49.95, AB $34.95 (WA)

KJ GREAT ESTATES

In its twenty-year history, Kendall-Jackson has identified numerous appellations where grape variety and climate are perfectly matched. KJ has selected vineyards in these appellations as the source for the limited production Great Estates wines. Each is an expression of regional varietal character.

94 Kendall-Jackson Great Estates 1998 Chardonnay

Sonoma Coast, California

Russian River, Sonoma Valley and Carneros provide the grapes for this gorgeous white wine. Creamy, lees and smoky, ripe pear aromas are perfection. The structure is on the elegant side of rich with spicy, green apple, melon and pear flavours and a long, elegant, creamy, butterscotch lees finish. Fabulous chardonnay. BC $55.95 AB $44.95 (WA)

95 Kendall-Jackson Great Estates 1999 Chardonnay

Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, California

New re-plantings have focused on various clones giving this wine big overripe peach and floral tangerine aromas along with spicy, smoky, green apple, honey and mineral tones. Rich and round with butterscotch, spiced apple, smoky lees, and mineral flavours. Long, rich, muscat/orange, buttery finish. Intense yet elegant and balance. BC $69.95, AB $58.95 (WA)

90 Kendall-Jackson Great Estates 1998 Merlot

Sonoma County, California

Smoky, toasted oak, blackberry, mint and raspberry aromas with tarry, licorice tones in the background. Slightly skinny, leaner style tannins and mid-palate. Cherry, plum, smoky, spicy mint flavours with long vanilla, cherry, tarry finish. Good richness, elegant but not as full blown. BC $79.95, AB $63.95 (WA)

92 Kendall-Jackson Great Estates 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California

Spicy, tobacco, earthy barnyard, blackberry and plum aromas with strong black pepper in the background. Rich red with a soft, dense texture on the palate, quite forward. Very impressive flavours with sweet cassis jam, blackberry, tobacco and spice. Long and elegant finish. BC $89.95, 63.95 (WA)

93 Kendall-Jackson Great Estates 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley, California

Open and complex nose with intense blackberry, cassis jam, tobacco, barnyard, eucalyptus aromas. The wine has a rich mid-palate with intense vanilla, smoky, blackberry, tobacco, and earth flavours and some ripe but noticeable tannin. Long, intense and balanced. BC $99.5, AB $71.95 (WA)

KJ STATURE

Stature represents the pinnacle of Kendall-Jackson winemaking excellence. Winemaster Randy Ullom says they are created from only the finest vineyards and handcrafted without compromise.

95 Kendall-Jackson 1997 Stature Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley, California

The '97 Stature cab is made mostly from Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain fruit with a touch Rutherford and Oakville benchland grapes added to flesh out the wine. Intense black pepper, blackberry jam, cassis, chocolate, and smoky licorice mark the nose along with barnyard and tobacco tones. A huge wine with brighter berry fruit flavours on initial entry and lots of cassis jam, mint, smoky tobacco, and blackberry jam flavours in mid-palate. The finish is long and stylish with vanilla, cherry and pepper flavours. A wonderful wine with a big future. BC $235.95, AB $185.95 (WA)

LA CREMA

The La Crema Winery was founded in 1979 and is situated in the Russian River Valley. Winemaker Jeff Stewart emphasizes the production of pinot noir and chardonnay. The small lot mentality and blending of grapes from several cool vineyards in the Sonoma Coast region are again the consistent philosophy of Kendall-Jackson. Here they key is to obtain balance and delicacy while obtaining ripe varietal characters.

88 La Crema 1999 Chardonnay

Sonoma Coast, California

Open nutty, toasty lees nose with light lemon, apple and floral aromas. Round and elegant but quite soft and forward, has butter lees, citrus and apple flavours with a touch of peach. Nice elegance but could use a bit more concentration and fresher acidity. Drink now. BC $29 AB $24.95 (ST)

92 La Crema 1999 Chardonnay

Russian River Valley, California

A blend of six different vineyards and multiple clones and unfined and unfiltered. Very nice buttery, citrus, floral, nutty aromas with peach, melon and spice. Richer and rounder on the palate with very spicy clove, toasty lees, buttery citrus flavours and a nice melon, creamy finish. Elegant and long with good acidity balance. Worth trying. BC $41.95 AB $28.95 (ST)

88 La Crema 1999 Pinot Noir

Sonoma Coast, California

Nice cherry, spice, raspberry aromas with a touch of sausage and barnyard. Very round and supple with spicy, strawberry jam and cherry flavours. Elegant and balanced with a peppery, leafy, vanilla finish. BC $32.95 AB $26.95 QC $30.75 (ST)

92 La Crema 1999 Pinot Noir

Russian River Valley, California

Open black cherry, spicy, cola, earth and pepper aromas with a touch of barnyard and strawberry jam in the background. Round and moderately rich with supple mouthfeel, smoky vanilla, toasted oak flavours and a black cherry, spice and licorice finish. Finish is soft and balanced with earth and strawberry. Very good quality for current and near term consumption. BC $45.95 AB $32.95 (ST)

89 La Crema 1997 Zinfandel Reserve

Sonoma Coast, California

Ripe blackberry, white pepper, earth and liquorice aromas with a touch of roasted bell pepper and raspberry. Round and soft with a touch of acidity and hotness, has peppery, liquorice, raspberry and cherry flavours. An elegant style that is less jammy than other areas of Sonoma and ready to drink. Made from old vines yielding about 1.5 tons per acre. BC $43.95 AB $31.95 (ST) Private Wine Shops