Earlier this summer, I was one of two dozen judges at the 6th Wine Access International Value Wine Awards (IVWA) competition in Calgary.
The blind tasting event is run by Wine Access Magazine out of Calgary, where I have been the Vancouver-based editor-in chief for nearly a decade through the wonders of technology.
Each year we invite the world wine community to submit any wines they please to the competition, with one catch: each bottle must be sold in at least one location in Canada for $25 or less. As you can imagine, prices fluctuate widely across the country from hyper-expensive British Columbia to Ontario, where wine prices are mostly ridiculously cheap.
I must say I find it odd that British Columbians would revolt over a harmonized sales tax that was heading for 10 per cent yet proudly pay a 120-percent-plus mark-up on their alcohol, before adding in the GST and the soon-to-return PST, but then I digress.
Hitting the under-$25 mark is not really an onerous task for most international wineries, many of which produce a dozen or more wines under that price point, but the result is a highly focused week of blind tasting for the judges where you get to compare wines in a narrow price range that are sold all over the country. I should point out that some Canadian producers did very well at the IVWAs, albeit at the upper end of the price range.
No one should mistake the IVWA for the definitive value wine awards if only because value can occur at all price points. But when it comes to under $25 in Canada, it has the market covered. My favourite part of the competition is the "killer value" list released just before the publication hitting the newsstand in late September. In this case, the magazine selects the 25 best-scoring wines that sell for $15 or less.
Now that I have your attention, the list is all about bargains and after six years some wineries are proving they can do it year in and year out. Since the "killer list" has been slowly leaked online from No. 25 to No. 1, I've decided to share with you, via this week's Vancouver Sun six-pack, some of my favourite picks among the Top 25.
The Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2010 has been an over-performer for years, so it is great to see it jump to the top of the "killer value" list this year. Look for a touch of sweetness and a slight watery quality that marks the palate of what is a fresh, grassy, passion fruit scented white. The fruit comes from Maule and Casablanca and is only fermented in stainless steel. As a result, the wine is crisp and crunchy on the palate and bracingly fresh enough to easily accompany raw oysters, seafood pasta dishes or your favourite sushi rolls. Super value.
The folks at Yalumba know how to make wine and the Oxford Landing Chardonnay 2010 prove they get value wine, too. Expect an appealing citrus, apple skin and buttery nose with tiny little notes of bread dough. The attack is round and fresh with tropical peach flavours flecked with honey, butter and apple skin notes. There is a touch of sweet and sour in the finish, but otherwise a solid party wine. Or, serve it mid-week with fish cakes.
Another delicious crisp white that wowed the judges is the Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from Casablanca. So fresh and juicy yet slightly austere, you will love its nettle, lemon grass, herbal and grapefruit rind flavours. Pure and correct with a bit of lime and herb on the finish, it is delicious drinking now.
The big value rosé is the Marqués de Cáceres Rosé 2010 from its citrus, floral and candied cherry nose to its fresh, juicy, elegant palate awash in light, bright, sweet fruit flavoured with cherry, plum, grapefruit and earthy flavours. It's the kind of rosé that can convert a lot of red-only drinkers to something less tannic, but completely appropriate for light summer and fall dishes.
The Château de Cabriac 2008 was a star performer at the IVWAs and it sells for a paltry $14. The vineyard is far enough from the Mediterranean to allow its Syrah mourvèdre, Grenache and carignan blend to warm up and offer a riper fruit character on the nose. The style is smooth and rich with black raspberry, black cherry and smoky licorice notes. An impressive red wine for the price that is ready to drink with barbecue favourites, especially grilled sausages.
For something different but equally well made and priced, select the Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Medium Dry Sherry N/V. Nutty is the word for this classic rancio, pecan shell and figgy Oloroso. Just slightly sweet, with fine underlying acidity and a pinch of oxidation, this warm treat slides down easily. Look for a spicy, rancio, walnut, buttery flavour with bits of fig and date in the aftertaste. Serve as aperitif or as an afterdinner treat.
You can find the complete "killer wine list" at http://wineaccess.ca/killer.
The Wine Access IVWA issue will be on newsstands across the country in October and November.
Good hunting.
Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2010, Valle del Lontué, Valle del Maule, Chile
Price: $11
UPC: 89419007091
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Easy-sipping with a touch of sweetness for spicier dishes.
Oxford Landing Chardonnay 2010, South Australia, Australia
Price: $12
UPC: 9311789279329
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Round, fresh, ripe wine with honey, butter and peach flavours.
Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Valle de Casablanca, Chile
Price: $15
UPC: 07804613410019
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Pure and correct. Delicious drinking now.
Marqués de Cáceres Rosé 2010, Rioja, Spain
Price: $16
UPC: 8410406611007
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Floral, cherry, plum, grapefruit and earthy flavours. A fun wine for tapas.
Château de Cabriac 2008, Corbières, Languedoc, France
Price: $14
UPC: 33488822101152
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Ready to drink with barbecue favourites, especially grilled sausages.
Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Medium Dry, Jerez-Manzanilla, Spain
Price: $15
UPC: 8410023020138
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Serve as an aperitif or as an after-dinner treat. Great value.