Local wine distributors were anticipating the colour of chic to be pink this summer.
Unfortunately, the Vancouver port shutdown trapped much of that enthusiasm inside containers instead of where it looks best ― on city patios.
Interest in rosé has been building locally for two seasons and there was every reason to think this was the year it would take off. That's not going to happen now but B.C. government stores are still planning to entice you to drink pink, this month and next, with in-store display of rosés that runs well into September.
Even if you are preoccupied with back to school tasks there is still a month of summer to be enjoyed and sipping rose may be a great way to end it all.
Why rosé and why now?
Like most everything in the wine business the rosé category has undergone much scrutiny and as a result of better techniques and committing to the style from the vineyard to winery the quality and style of modern rosé has something to offer most every curious sipper.
Much of today's pink is drier and or fruiter than previous versions and it's this style, (higher acid and less sugar) that is making important inroads into local restaurants and wine bars and as mentioned current end-of-aisle displays in selected B.C Liquor stores.
For the record, there are few places rosé is made by simply blending red and white wines -- at least legally. Most pink wine begins life the same way as a red wine, inside a tank fermenting on its skins. The difference is after a few hours, the skins are removed and fermentation continues as if it were a white wine.
The reduced skin contact produces a delicate pink wine that undeniably grabs your eye in the glass and that comes with just enough flavour and tannin to stand up to a wide array of al fresco summer bites.
For best results, add warm weather friends and pleasant conversation.
Vinedos Nekeas was struggling with its Greek look-alike name so the Spanish rosé with the bright pale raspberry colour has returned with an artful label and a new name: Vega Sindoa Rosé 2004. The better news is the garnacha-cabernet blend with its spicy almond earthy notes and raspberry jam fruit flavours is as fine as the last one. Love the peppery finish. It's big enough for dinner but perfect for that alfresco lunch.
Another new addition to the category is Eaglehawk Rose 2004 from South Australia. The Wolf Blass product has an enticing bright pink colour, sweet fresh fruit nose and cherry berry flavours. It's soft and a fruity and it comes with an easy to twist off screwcap. Chicken or turkey sandwiches would work well here or lightly spiced Asian dishes. Alternatively, you simply sip this one solo on the patio. Good value
The more reserved Euro style can be found in the Château la Tour d'Aigues Poeme Rosé 2004. The nose is clean with flowery, cherry, mineral, citrus and almond aromas. On the palate, it is crisp with mineral, cherry, citrus, baked quince and earthy flavours. Well made, fresh and dry. Terrific value and surely one of the best pinks in the market.
Locally you cannot go wrong with Sumac Ridge Rose Private Reserve 2004. An unusual mix of gamay, bacchus and schönburger it has a lively citrus and fresh fruit nose that pulls you quickly into the glass. The entry is sweetish, a la white zinfandel, but there is enough zippy acidity to hold it all together. The style is light and commercial but it will have wide appeal. Just add sunshine and tapas for a party.
New to me, and a pleasant discovery, is the Masi Modello Rosato 2003. Its Valpolicella-like blend of corvina, molinara and rondinella is packed with fresh zippy citrus fruit followed by just under ripe black fruit flavours Light airy fresh and très chic this pink Euro is a summertime winner. Be sure to chill it down before serving and serve with a wide variety of appetizers. Love the price.
Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Rose 2004 hails from Margaret River, Western Australia. This is a great looking pink wine under screwcap with the requisite fresh nose of red fruit and flowers. Similar floral fruit flavours with good acidity and more fresh plum fruit in the finish make this the ultimate summer quaffer. Sip or serve with grilled pork or chicken or solo all night long.
Pink Picks
Wine Vega Sindoa Rosé 2004, Navarra Spain
Price $12.90
UPC 617835005218
Score 87/100
Remarks Big enough for dinner but perfect for an alfresco lunch.
Wine Eaglehawk Rose 2004, South Eastern Australia
Price $12.99
UPC 9300770043537
Score 86/100
Remarks Ripe fruity fresh and fun. The perfect pink sipper.
Wine Cellarier Marrenon Poeme Rosé, Côtes du Lubéron, France
Price $12.95
UPC 3256811112921
Score 87/100
Remarks Terrific value. Drink all summer and fall.
Wine Sumac Ridge Rose Private Reserve 2004, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price $10.99
UPC 778876014123
Score 85/100
Remarks Add sunshine and tapas for a party.
Wine Masi Modello Rosato delle Venezie 2003, Veneto, Italy
Price $9.99
UPC 8002062001706
Score 86/100
Remarks Light airy très chic Euro pink.
Wine Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Rose Merlot 2004, Margaret River, Western Australia
Price $19.99
UPC 9310194452143
Score 87/100
Remarks Great tasting and looking pink wine under screwcap.