Italy Ponders its Role at 30th Playhouse Bash

It seems the Italians have yet to decide whether, or not, they would like to headline the 30th Playhouse festival in 2008. I'm not surprised. I can't recall who described Italy as a country of 58 million people each pulling in a different direction, but it perfectly describes the mindset and the genius of Italy.

Getting Italians to meet a timeline is never a good notion. What is a good idea is Italian design, Italian food, Italian soccer, Italian cars and, in the case of this column, Italian wine.

When I spoke with Playhouse Festival officials this week they were reticent to confirm the Italian deal. "True, Italy's storied history of tradition and innovation would make a great fit as our theme region for our 30th anniversary," said Harry Hertscheg, festival director, "but next year's theme is not always secured by the end of the previous festival. If you're rooting for Italy's depth and breadth of varietals and sub-regions, by all means, include them in your prayers."

Hmm, I'm going to draw the line at prayers if only because any discussion about religion usually ends badly and, frankly, I would rather sip Italian wine. That said, there's reason why Italy is the home of the slow food movement and we will just have to wait a bit longer to see if they will headline 2008 at the wine festival.

What Hertscheg could confirm is that, "sparkling wine will be the global focus in 2008 and that means more than just champagne from Champagne. Bubbly is often misunderstood as being just for celebrations like New Year's Eve, weddings and birthdays, but it's much more versatile then that. It's suitable for many occasions from aperitifs to desserts, from weeknights to holiday weekends, from lunches to dinners -- and why not breakfasts, too? Get ready Vancouver to embrace sparklers like never before!"

Maybe we don't need a country theme after all. Champagne and sparkling wine sound very enticing. Argentina, for one, is making great strides with bubble, as is New Zealand and Canada. But just in case the Italians are serious, I thought I would add but a glimpse at what we could expect in 2008 and it's all in local liquor stores today.

Tormaresca Chardonnay 2005 blends fruit from two Tormaresca estates in Puglia: Bocca di Lupo in Murgia and Masseria Maime in Salento. It's partially barrel fermented, which accounts for its buttery peach aromas and flavours, but you can also taste the minerals and the nearby sea influence on the nose and palate. A soft, fresh, ripe apple/citrus chardonnay with an elegant demeanour that reflects its European origins in flavour and style. Try with sole or other light, simply prepared fish dishes.

It's amazing what a sunny, warm vintage will do for some of Italy's lesser lights. Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 is a Montepulciano that has put on some weight and texture to go with its smoky, peppery, licorice, plum flavours and firm acidity. It's now an enjoyable spaghetti red that offers value for money. Look for this to show up on the Italian/Mediterranean wine list circuit all year.

No matter what the Italians decide next year, the sparkling wine of Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D'Asti 2004 should be on your buy list. This delicate Gavi sparkler can do double duty before and after dinner thanks to its floral, peach, perfumed, spicy, quince nose. Best of all is its light, spritz and fresh demeanour, and its bright red apple, floral, ginger, melon, honey flavours. There's great value here in a luncheon wine, an aperitif and or as an after dinner drink.

Back to Puglia for the latest A Mano Primitivo 2003. Winemaker Mark Shannon and his wife Elvezia continue to hone their fashionable Puglia primitivo with much success. The '03 has a ripe peppery nose flecked with cardamom and raspberry. The entry is marked by sweet fruit, the palate with savoury chocolate flavours and a licorice black fruit finish. Solid work-horse spaghetti red and more.

A new listing from re-invented southern Italy is the Apollonio Copertino Rosso, a blend of negroamaro, montepulciano, malvasia and sangiovese. Look for a rich, round, concentrated red stuffed with licorice, black cherry, plum floral, gamey, smoky coffee flavours with a bit of vanilla, tobacco and cedar on the finish. Warm, chunky style to accompany roast lamb, goat or stews.

My last pick from Sicily is the Scurati Nero d'Avola 2005. Typically chunky and full on the palate with those dry Italian tannins, it has black cherry and plum fruit flavours flecked with licorice, pepper, floral and smoky meat flavours with a touch of barnyard. Best with roasted or simmered meats and hearty dishes.

TORMARESCA CHARDONNAY 2005, PUGLIA, ITALY

Price     $13.99

UPC      8026530000015

Score   87/100

Remarks           An elegant chardonnay that reflects its European origins in flavour and style.

ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2005, ABRUZZO, ITALY
Price     $14.95
UPC      8000268750213
Score   86/100
Remarks           A very enjoyable spaghetti red that offers value for money.

MICHELE CHIARLO NIVOLE MOSCATO D'ASTI 2004, GAVI, PIEDMONT, ITALY
Price     $15.95
UPC      00802365000561
Score   90/100
Remarks           Peach, red apple, floral, ginger, melon, honey flavours.

A MANO PRIMITIVO 2003, CASTELLANETA, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price     $17.99
UPC      726452003771
Score   87/100
Remarks           Solid work-horse spaghetti red and more.

APOLLONIO COPERTINO ROSSO 2001, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price     $19.99
UPC      8028860001052
Score   88/100
Remarks           Warm, chunky style red to accompany hearty roast lamb, goat or stews.

SCURATI NERO D'AVOLA 2005, SICILY, ITALY
Price     $23.93
UPC      8032484870116
Score   88/100
Remarks           Big black cherry, plum fruit with licorice, pepper, smoky meat flavours.