Is Merlot Back?

Overproduced and under-flavoured, it was infamously damned in the movie Sideways during a pre-dinner scene when would-be novelist and Pinot Noir snob, Miles, informs his pal Jack, "If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f---ing Merlot."

In the months that followed, Merlot's image took a battering, as did sales. Fortunately for Merlot producers, what goes around comes around, and just when it seemed the grape was doomed, its modern-day competitor, Shiraz, began losing its lustre. Eerily reminiscent of Merlot's demise, Shiraz has found its reputation marred by a sea of mediocrity, especially at the fighting varietal level where soupy, cedar-y, sour reds have driven consumers to consider not drinking Shiraz.

In some ways, Malbec also is nestling into the same sightlines of consumers as expansion of vineyards, overproduction, greedy distributors and retailers look to make a fast buck on the sexy, savoury red that is getting duller and less vibrant by the day, particularly in the key under $15 price point.

I am sure it's music to the ears of Merlot producers hoping to get back in the game, especially along the West Coast of North and South America. There is little doubt some of the finest Merlot still comes from Bordeaux's Right Bank in St. Emilion and Pomerol, although prices make most of Right Bank - hell, any Bordeaux labels - little more than trophy wines that are literally bought and sold at auction with very little drinking in between.

Modern-day Merlot, at least the stuff that gets drunk, is more likely to come out of Sonoma, Chile, Washington, British Columbia and Tuscany. There is something about northwest Merlot that places it well above the norm. The fruit is rich and for the most part ripe. The tannins are soft, or at least fine-grained at the top end, and the flavours come with a supercharged, spicy savoury thread and just enough acidity to keep it lively on the palate.

Looking back on the last 40 years, it is clear to see that popularity works in strange ways. Having survived its time at the top of the wine game, and its period at the bottom, Merlot is once again working its way back into the lexicon and mouths of wine drinkers.

Today, we look at six fine examples you can try with an array of grilled meats and poultry, or perhaps with your favourite cheese.

We begin with the Carmen Reserva Merlot 2009 from the Valle del Cachapoal in Chile. Much like previous versions, the nose is a mix of leafy, spicy, cran-cherry aromas with bits of savoury, dried herbs throughout. The attack is soft and dense with black olive, cedar, medicine chest, black cherry and tobacco flavours. Rustic, but ready for hamburgers or flank steak off the barbecue. It is fair value at $12.

The Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2009, also from Cachapoal, is much more of a blockbuster style and that's reflected in its price. The nose is rich and warm with pure sweet, plummy fruit and that savoury dried herbs "Chilean" undercurrent. On the palate, the savoury, bay leaf, plum fruit theme continues with flecks of chocolate, vanilla and spice. The finish is long and glossy. A very clean version of the varietal that will be a hit with roast beef and grilled meat lovers. Big value here for $20.

Sonoma County, California is the origin of the Rodney Strong Merlot 2006. The nose is fragrant with cedar, spice, vanilla and mint in the foreground. The attack is fresh, with some obvious mid-palate acidity and dryness. The entry is slightly lean for California, almost Bordeaux-like in its demeanour. Look for delicate plum and black cherry fruit with a soft, toasted vanilla finish. This one is ready to drink now. Lamb chops would be a solid match.

Closer to home the Kestrel Merlot 2007 shouts Washington State with its dark and brooding northwest nose offering up lifted black fruit and cranberry aromas. On the palate, it is showing richer layers of black and red fruits raked with a savoury, spicy undercurrent. The finish is long, rich and warm, with an abundance of ripe fruit. Serve this with your favourite cut of steak.

Our final two picks come from the Okanagan where Merlot, when grown and vinified with care, can be sublime. A fine example is the Moon Curser Merlot 2009. Do not let the zombie/wolfman label throw you off. The nose is rich and expressive with smoky, cherry, plum aromas and notes of tobacco, vanilla, spice and barnyard. The palate is supple with fresh acidity more tobacco, cedar, saddle leather, cherry kirsch and savoury black olive flavours. The finish is warm, but with light tannins and a strong core of fruit. Well done, but it will be even better in three years.

A pleasant surprise and no doubt benefiting from the new winery facilities is the Quinta Ferreira Merlot 2008 grown in Oliver. The entry is dry, round and elegant but with fine extract. On the palate, its smoky oak, espresso, vanilla, black olive, black cherry and dried herb flavours mix with a subtle touch of cedar and barnyard. An impressive effort to serve now with roast beef, or T-bone steaks, or cellar this for three more years.

Carmen Reserva Merlot 2009, Valle del Cachapoal, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price :$12

UPC: 0083300097550

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Rustic but ready for grilled meats off the barbecue. Fair value at $12.

Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2009, Puemo, Valle del Cachapoal, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price: $20

UPC: 07804320253480

Score: 89/100

Remarks: This is a blockbuster-style merlot.

Rodney Strong Merlot 2006, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $23

UPC: 087512073395

Score: 87/100

Remarks: This one is ready to drink now.

Kestrel Merlot 2007, Washington, United States

Price: $24, private wine stores

UPC: 651640020004

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Rich and warm with an abundance of ripe fruit.

Moon Curser Merlot 2009, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Price: $25

UPC: 626990114659

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Expressive, rich, open, smoky, cherry, plum nose.

Quinta Ferreira Merlot 2008, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $25

UPC: 00626990098775

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Impressive. Serve with roast beef or T-bone steaks.