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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

More good news for British Columbia wineries, at least those who believe their competition is the world and not the wineries down the street.

International Value Wine Awards

Earlier this week, Calgary-based Wine Access magazine released the results of its first ever International Value Wine Awards, a competition positioned as "the search for the best wines sold in Canada under $25."

To be clear, I'm an editor at Wine Access, but like the other 15 judges invited from across Canada to judge the wines, I too sat in a Calgary hotel ballroom for the better part of a week to blind taste more than 760 wines in search of the best labels sold in Canada under $25.

With so many award shows worldwide, Wine Access chose to do something different and look at the business end of the market where almost 95 per cent of all purchases are made.

In most instances, we were asked to taste on the basis of which grape(s) were in the blend. In the case of cabernet sauvignon, we evaluated nearly 80 different wines from several countries or virtually most of the labels you encounter in government stores every week.

By the time we finished, we tasted more than 1,000 wines, both domestic and imported (some two or three times), from 17 countries, all selling for less than $25 per bottle. You can read more about the early results at www.wineaccess.ca, but the wines will disappear fast so I wanted to highlight some of the very best that you can buy now.

As mentioned a few B.C. wineries scored huge victories against international competition, especially when you consider that they were all competing in a relatively narrow price zone.

Jackson-Triggs took home the prestigious title of the "Best Cabernet Sauvignon" for its Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2004 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. At $24.99 it just made the $25 cut off, but this is well-made, ripe cabernet. JT produced 500 cases and will likely release the wine during the Okanagan Wine Festival. The Lang Vineyards 2005 Riesling Farm Reserve ($15.90 VQA stores), which snagged the best riesling title, is already in short supply, while the Mission Hill 2005 Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio ($15.86), which topped the Best Other White, should be readily available in government stores.

The IVWA will be the cover story of the November issue of Wine Access, on newsstands the third week of October. Still to come is the unveiling of the Best Red, White and Sparkling Wine Under $25 as judged in a final taste-off at the end of the competition. The magazine will also publish an extensive list of the best wines in Canada under $15.

In the meantime, today, I wanted to share with you six early results that you can get out and buy now, before they disappear.

It's difficult not to like a sparkling wine that offers taste and style for such a small price, but that's what you get from the Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt. Its attractive floral nose melts into a dry, round, elegant, but taut, sparkler with green apple, petrol, slate, mineral, citrus and peach flavours. Weddings anyone?

The unoaked chardonnay category was considered one of the stars of the competition and the winning wine Goundrey Homestead Chardonnay Unwooded 2005 was delicious. The fruit comes from south Western Australia, including the cooler Mount Barker region where Homestead is located. We love the cool minerality and nervous palate that shows just enough fruit to balance it all out. Not your typical fruit bomb as one judge remarked. Killer value.

Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve 2005 continues to amaze people who taste it blind. Once considered too oaky and too sweet, the '05, now 100 per cent Jackson Estates grown, is packed with freshness and fruit and attractive mango, honey, pineapple nuances. Very stylish New Wave California chardonnay blend from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Mendocino fruit.

Sun readers know all they need to about Castano Monastrell 2004 a wine featured regularly on these pages. Guess what? It won again and, at $9.99, it remains a true bargain. Look for black cherry, chocolate, licorice, peppery spice flavours, all in a friendly rustic package.

Chile got into the fray with J. Bouchon Carmenere Syrah Reserva 2005. Only in private wine shops, the latest version of this well-made red blend is suitably soft and round with just a touch of youthful, grippy, tannins in the back end. There is plenty of peppery, minty, cassis jam, and chalky Carmenere flavour to enjoy. Wonderful value.

Tenuta di Castiglioni is the oldest Frescobaldi estate, with roots that date back to 1032 and is home to Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Chianti Tenuta di Castiglioni 2004, a 45/45/10 blend of sangiovese/cabernet sauvignon/merlot and petit verdot. The wine is exceedingly rich and well structured with fruity, jammy, chocolate overtures and plenty of finesse. A terrific bottle and a real bargain in Ontario.


Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt N/V, Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $13.99
UPC: 4003310132115
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fine flavour intensity for the price in an inexpensive bubble.

Goundrey Homestead Chardonnay Unwooded 2005, Western Australia
Price: $13.99
UPC: 9316369013157
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Not your typical fruit bomb and it represents killer value.

Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve 2005, California, United States
Price: $22.99
UPC: 081584013105
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Attractive, new wave, California style.

Castano Monastrell 2004, Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
Price: $9.99
UPC: 8422443001208
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Warm and rustic with fine fruit concentration. Terrific value.

J. Bouchon Carmenere Syrah Reserva 2005, Valle del Maule, Chile
Price: $12.95 -- private wine shops only
UPC: 7804444001240
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Plenty of peppery, minty, cassis jam and chalky carmenere flavour.

Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Chianti Tenuta di Castiglioni 2004, Tuscany, Italy
Price: $26.75
UPC: 8007425000334
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Exceedingly rich with fruity, jammy, chocolate flavours.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.