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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

A year away from its 30th birthday, the week-long annual grape bash has never been more popular or better accepted by the public.

Inside the Playhouse Tasting Room

Canada's premier wine show, and believe me no one is close to topping this event, is all but sold out as the international wine world prepares to descend upon Vancouver later this week to pour the latest in grape juice in a city where, clearly, the beverage of choice is now wine.

In some ways number 29 could be the "perfect storm" for the Playhouse Theatre coffers.

With Australia as the underlying theme and plenty of ripe, fat, sweet tasting, approachable signature red shiraz wines to taste, ticket sales have been brisk. Add to that the fact that the wizards of Oz hold a commanding lead among all wine imported into the province and the demand is outstripping supply to many events.

Adding wind to the storm is riesling. Organizers are expecting almost 90 examples of the festival's featured global grape to be poured and its highly appealing flavour, both intellectually pleasing and plain damned fun to sip, are no doubt driving even more interest in attendance.

I fondly remember the small Thursday night crowds of the '80s and '90s moving from booth to booth with ease and organizers assuring the wineries not to worry that Friday and Saturday night the room would be much busier. Well it's double the size now and sold out every night and, with 180 wineries and some 800 wines, there is little room to move.

The festival works well on many levels thanks to an incredible volunteer base. All those wines, and water jugs and spit buckets do not just appear, nor do they get dumped and replenished by themselves. The Playhouse has an army of volunteers who are so efficient you seldom even notice the work being done unless you are on the receiving end of the ice and water or you need your spit bucket emptied.

You can't have an event without some big names (see our list of key principals) and many of the biggest in wine have been here and more surprisingly, have stood behind a booth pouring their wine. It's something I can assure you they rarely do elsewhere. It's a measure of the respect they hold for you and your palate, now considered among the savviest in the wine world.

And speaking of you, the consumer, this is your chance to get all those questions answered about your favourite wine. If you are planning a trip to wine country, you can pick up some useful information on where to stay or eat, and of course, you can make a vital contact and organize a visit to the winery.

Now, let's get to the tasting room. Everyone needs a plan, so let's begin with basics. Keep in mind the Australian wineries will be located in one area, (arranged by region) adjacent to the on-site BC Liquor store, while the rest of the wine world will be spread across the Trade and Convention Centre ballrooms in the now familiar alphabetical order.

As always our "Insider's Guide" is designed to get you around the room touching on just some of the many highlights, but in the end it only scratches the surface. Let it be the start of your game and then simply add imagination and enthusiasm to complete your tour.

One tip I will share with you is to think about using all those rieslings to keep your palate fresh. So taste some syrah or shiraz, or mourvedre or cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel, or those big Douro reds and then go back to the riesling to fight the tannin build up.

Finally, expect the unexpected. That's what every new vintage is about -- you never really know what is going to be in that glass until you taste it. Whether you taste an old favourite or discover something new, sharing your experience with friends is what wine appreciation is all about.

A handful of events, including the afternoon Trade Tastings and Jurgen Gothe's wine entertainment Up Your Glass!, still have tickets available. See www.playhousewinefest.com or call 604-873-3311 for details and advance tickets. To buy in person, the box office is open on-site at the Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre, 999 Canada Place, Vancouver, on Thursday, March 29 and Friday, March 30, from noon to 8:30 p.m., and on Saturday, March 31 from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.

If you're looking for tickets to the sold-out evening tastings, your only option is to join the queue at 6:30 each night for a limited number of rush tickets. There is a limit of two per person.

That's it. Have fun and don't forget: no perfume, do spit, and whatever you do don't even think about driving home. Take advantage of the Free Ride Home program available on-site.

If you need any more help, I'll see you inside the tasting room.PEOPLE WITH SOMETHING TO SAY - After 29 years it's clear to me that the success of the Playhouse festival has everything to do with its roster of attending principals. Be sure to ask for the winery principal as you taste at the booth and start asking all those questions you've been saving up.

John Angove is one of the gentlemen of the Australian wine industry and he has a wealth of knowledge to share. Check out the Angove's Red Belly Black and chat up an industry icon.

Winemaker Bob Blue is the man behind one of the stars of the organic wine business. Check out his Bonterra Chardonnay and be sure to investigate his bio-dynamic offering form McNab Ranch.

David Slingsby-Smith is De Bortoli's senior winemaker in the Yarra Valley. Stop by the De Bortoli booth and find out how they pack he packs so much flavour into his petit verdot for so little money.

The duelling Quintas -- do Crasto, do vale Dona Maria are back and you'll find them in the Qs. Catch the "Douro Boys" Miguel Roquette and Cristiano Van Zeller and sip some of the driest, and the sweetest, treasures of the Douro.

Greg Corra is the managing director of Inland Trading and perhaps THE expert on high-end Australian wine in the room. If you really want to know who is making the best wine in Oz ask Greg and don't forget to try the Rolf Binder Heysen Shiraz.

Randy Ullom is the COO and Winemaster of Kendall Jackson and the king of chardonnay. Ullom has the largest selection of premium coastal and mountain vineyard land in California at his disposal and his wines taste like. Try everything here.

Jane Ferrari is the viognier queen and one of Australia's most engaging wine personalities. Check out the Yalumba booth, listen to her viognier monologue, and taste the Hand Picked Tempranillo Grenache Viognier.

Daniel Castano returns to wave the red wine flag of Yecla. Visit Daniel for a lesson in monastrell (mourvedre) and other developments at Bodegas Castano.

Serge Hochar is the man behind Lebanon's icon winery Chateau Musar. You can taste his 1998 and find out how you operate a winery in the Middle East.

Western Australians Peter and Jane Thompson, owners of Thompson Estate in Margaret River make their Vancouver debut with a slew of WA wines. You'll love the Cabernet but be sure to try the hip SSB.

Phillip Casella and John Soutter are back with the tale of the tail, that's Yellowtail. Check out the worldwide phenomenon and sip the Reserve Shiraz.

If you remember Robert Pepi from his California sauvignon blanc days be sure to catch up with him at the Valentin Bianchi booth where he is making a difference in Argentina.


OFF THE BEATEN TRACK - The underlying premise of the Playhouse bash is discovery. Finding something new or learning about a new region is what it's all  -about. That's why it's best to get off the beaten track and open your mind and your palate to new taste sensations. Your reward will be a new experience and possibly shorter line-ups at the booth.

Antinori Tormaresca Masseria Maime Negroamaro 2003, Puglia, Italy, $38
Bonterra McNab Ranch Red Biodynamic 2002, Mendocino, California, $47
Broadbent Selections Rainwater Madeira, Portugal, $25
D'Arenberg Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2004, McLaren Vale, Australia, $37
Fess Parker Viognier 2004, Santa Barbara County, California $31
Fuedo di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina DOC 2005, Campania, Italy, $28
Gonzalez Byass Apostoles Palo Cortado Rare Old Sherry, Jerez, Spain, $56
Inniskillin Okanagan Estate Discovery Series Malbec 2004, Okanagan Valley, BC $30
McWilliams Lovedale Semillion 2000, New South Wales, Australia, $35
Chateau Musar Red 1998, Bekka Valley, Lebanon, $59
Pisano Arretxea Grand Reserve 2003, Uruguay, $40


RIFFING ON RIESLING - Riesling is the grape of choice at this year's festival and that meshes perfectly with my thinking that the new red is white. Try to move from Riesling to Riesling and compare the many styles and flavours that reflect its growing region.

Babich Marlborough Reserve Riesling 2005, New Zealand, $23
Burgerspital Wurzburger Stein-Harfe Riesling Spatlese 2004, Franken, Germany, $40
Chateau des Charmes Bosc Estate Riesling Icewine 2002, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, $60
Cono Sur Vision Riesling 2004, Bio Bio, Chile, $18
Dopff Irion Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $39
Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2005, Mosel, Germany, $28
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese 2005, Mosel, Germany, $36
German Wine Estate Bassermann-Jordan Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Kabinett 2005, Pfalz, Germany, $29
Nepenthe Riesling 2006, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, $22
Penfolds Eden Valley Riesling 2005, South Australia, $27
Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling 2005, Western Australia, $23
Rudolf Muller Dr. H. Thanisch Erben Muller-Burggraef Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese 2004, Mosel, Germany, $59
Skillogalee Riesling 2006, Clare Valley, South Australia, $25


LOCAL HEROES - Judging by the slim numbers of local producers, it seems the internationals are the attraction this week. That said, our visitors might like to know B.C. VQA wines sales for the 12 months ending September 2006 topped $141 million dollars. That's 12 per cent growth, outpacing the entire wine category that jumped a healthy 10 per cent in wine-mad B.C. Here are a few local highlights to check out.

CedarCreek Estate Select Syrah 2004, Okanagan Valley $33
Gehringer Brothers Optimum Pinot Gris 2005, Okanagan Valley, $20
Golden Mile Cellars Black Arts Chardonnay 2005, Okanagan Valley, $35
Inniskillin Okanagan Estate Dark Horse Vineyard Pinot Blanc 2005, Okanagan Valley, $18
Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2005, Okanagan Valley, $60
Mission Hill S.L.C. Chardonnay 2005, Okanagan Valley, $30
Therapy Vineyards Chardonnay 2005, Okanagan Valley, $23
Wild Goose Vineyard & Winery Gewurztraminer 2006, Okanagan Valley, $18


A PERFECT CASE FOR COLLECTORS - Just about every wine poured at the festival is available for sale at the on-site BC Liquor Store including many limited-release specialties, not likely to be sold anywhere in the province. Be prepared to strike early on Thursday, March 29 as soon as the on-site store opens.

Albert Bichot Pommard Clos Des Ursulines Domaine Du Pavillon 2005, Burgundy, France $57
Antinori Tignanello 2003, Tuscany, Italy, $86
Carmen Winemaker's Reserve Red 2002, Maipo, Chile, $52
Castello Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino Sangiovese 2001, Tuscany, Italy, $65
Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Maipo Valley, $60
Inland Trading Co. Burge Family Draycott Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $63
Kendall-Jackson Highland Estates Hawkeye Cabernet 2003, Alexander Mountain, Sonoma County, California, $83
Majella Wines Shiraz 2003, Coonawarra, South Australia, $35



BEST RESTAURANT/BAR TO SPOT A WINEMAKER AFTER HOURS - Vancouver's wine restaurants are well known to visiting principals and they will be busy all week. If you want to rub shoulders with the wine mob check out any of the following rooms from 5 to 7 p.m. or after the tasting room closes at 10 p.m.

Aqua Riva, 200 Granville St., 604-683-5599
Blue Water Cafe, 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078
Cascades Lounge (Pan Pacific Hotel) 300- 999 Canada Place, 604-662-8111
Coast, 1257 Hamilton St., 604-685-5010
CinCin Restaurant & Bar, 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338
Cioppino's Mediterranean Grill, 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466
Cru Restaurant, 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111
Earl's (Paramount) 905 Hornby St., 604-682-6700
Feenie's/Lumiere Tasting Bar, 2563 West Broadway 604-739-7115
Glowbal Grill & Satay Bar, 1079 Mainland St., 604-602-0835
Joe Fortes, 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940
La Terrazza, 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449
Nu, 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668
Parkside, 1906 Haro St., 604-683-6912
Salt Tasting Room, Blood Alley, Gastown, 604-633-1912
Sanafir 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049
Vij's, 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664
West, 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938


BEST BOOTHS - The best attracts the best, which is why so many wineries fight to be at the Playhouse event. Our best-booths picks (at least on paper) tend to cause a lineup in the room, but it's usually worth the wait. Our selection is based on experience with the winery and the quality of the wines they will pour for the public. Here are the ones that fit the bill along with a super pick from their top-rated lineup.

Antinori, Tuscany, Italy: Guado Al Tasso Bolgheri 2003, $86
Chateau De La Gardine, Rhone Valley, France: Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Cuvee Generations 2003, $100
Geyser Peak Winery, Sonoma County, California: Reserve Alexandre Meritage 2003, $65
Henri Bourgeois Clos Henri, Loire Valley, France: Sancerre Blanc Les Baronnes 2005, $30
Haan Wines, Barossa Valley, Australia: Shiraz Prestige 2004, $60
Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County, California: Highland Estates Hawkeye Cabernet 2003, $83
Parducci Wines, Mendocino, California: Sauvignon Blanc 2005, $17
Quinta Do Crasto, Douro Valley, Portugal: Vintage Port 2003, $66
Quinta Do Vale Dona Maria, Douro Valley, Portugal: Curriculum Vitae Douro Tinto 2004 $105
Yalumba, South Australia: Hand Picked Tempranillo Grenache Viognier 2005, $42


BEST VALUE - Price isn't everything, but getting value for every dollar you spend should be. Whether you are at the festival or headed into your local liquor stores, the following labels represent outstanding value in their class.

Santa Carolina Coleccion Privada Syrah 2005, Central Valley, Chile, $14
Casa del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc Valley 2006 Casablanca Valley, Chile, $19
Castano Hecula 2004, Yecla, Spain, $16
De Bortoli Petite Sirah 2005, Southeastern Australia, $12
Homestead Unwooded Chardonnay 2005, Western Australia, $15
MezzaCorona Feudo Arancio Syrah 2004. Sicily, Italy, $16
Bodegas Y Vinedos Pascual Toso Malbec 2005, Mendoza, Argentina, $12


BEST SHIRAZ/SYRAH - Shiraz is so ubiquitous on the world wine market it is likely headed for the same fate as merlot and, to some degree, chardonnay. Unless of course the good guys win out. Here are a few examples of what the grape can be in the hands of passionate winemakers.

Haan Wines Wilhelmus 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $59
Hardy Wine Company Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2002, South Australia, $93
Inland Trading Company Turkey Flat Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $50
Inland Trading Company Burge Family Draycott Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $63
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan SunRock Shiraz 2004, Okanagan Valley, B.C., $34
Kendall-Jackson Highland Estates Alisos Syrah 2003, California, $60
McWilliams Stentiford Reserve Shiraz 2002, Coonawarra, South Australia, $75
Plantagenet Great Southern Shiraz 2003, Western Australia, $40
Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 2002, South Australia, $70
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2003, Coonawarra, South Australia, $70
Yering Station/Mount Langi Mount Langhi Ghiran Shiraz 2004, Victoria, Australia, $46


HIGHEST-PRICED JUICE IN THE ROOM - It is always considered poor form to booth-hop, tasting only the most expensive wines in the room, but it never hurts to know where they are. Our advice: Stay cool, chat up the principal and taste all the wines at the table -- preferably in the order the winery suggests.

Broadbent Selections Vintage Port 1994, Douro Valley, Portugal, $100
Chateau De La Gardine Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Cuvee Generations 2003, Rhone Valley, France, $100
Feudi Di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico, Campania, Italy, $100
Hardy Wine Company Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2002, South Australia, $93
KWV Perold 2001 Paarl, South Africa, $107
Lanson Champagne Noble Cuvee Blanc de Blanc, France $146
Penfolds RWT (Red Wine Trial) 2003, South Australia, $120
Quinta Do Vale Dona Maria, Curriculum Vitae Tinto 2004, Douro Valley, Portugal, $105
Villa Rinaldi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC Rinaldi Major 2001, Veneto, Italy, $125

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.