Inexpensive Picks For the Patio

The rising Canadian dollar continues to erode import wine prices and while not every winery or their distributor is sharing the wealth, many are. That makes it an attractive proposition to return to imported wine, at least for the moment.

Fans of local wine are going to have to take the week off. There is virtually no VQA wine that retails for $9 or $10 and precious little at the $11 or $12 mark.

After a couple of decades of observing people making wine around the globe, I have come to the conclusion that inexpensive wine with flavour is no fluke. It usually involves modern technology, flawless large-scale production techniques, serious viticulture and, perhaps most importantly, a benign climate.

A site in which the fruit can become physiologically ripe without "cooking" on the vine is the key to success, along with insightful winemaking. The problem is the combination is never easy to find, hence the shortage of good but inexpensive wine.

This week, I have combed my notes from the last few months looking for some of the best buys in the market that haven't appeared in these pages. Today, you can head out to your local B.C Liquor Store and take advantage of some extremely attractive wine pricing.

Each is a solid pick on its own, but all will improve when paired with food. Do not expect the finest wine in the category, just a tasty one you can share with friends. And if you need an extra bottle or two, they will not leave you penniless.

We begin in France with Marrenon Chardonnay 2004, a Vin de Pays de Vaucluse from the Rhone Valley. It's now in screwcap -- yes, that's right, a French wine under screwcap -- and it appears to be all the better for it. Look for buttery lees, mineral, green apple skin notes that preview a crisp, round, elegant style. The flavours are a mix of lees (fresh bread dough), butter, citrus, mineral, baked apple flavours with a slightly bitter quince finish. A solid, clean, well-made style for the luncheon table or to serve outdoors.

The rush to riesling may inspire some to try the Rudolf Muller Riesling Chardonnay 2004 from the Pfalz. The unusual blend of chardonnay and riesling makes a lot of sense when you sip it. Fresh, round and elegant, it has delicate red apple, chalky, melon and citrus flavours with a touch of butter. It's a touch lean on the finish but a fine food wine for the summer and/or Asian cuisine. Good value.

Still with Germany is the bargain Fisherman Riesling Qualitatswein 2004 from the Rheinhessen. Look for a typical citrus, mineral, slate and petrol nose with fresh lime skin, smoky, mineral, apple-skin flavours. This is an easy-sipping solid white wine value.

The Obikwa Shiraz 2004, our first red suggestion today, is out of the Western Cape of South Africa. It comes with a smoky, saddle leather, prune, gamy, blackberry nose and flavours in a soft, round, easy-sipping package. A simple, straight-up barbecue red.

Long Flat Red Cabernet Shiraz 2003 hails from South Eastern Australia and greets you with a peppery, earthy, spicy, rootsy, cedar nose with bits of blueberry fruit. Flavours of peppery, cassis and blueberry fruit mixed with tobacco and cedar mark the palate. It finishes a touch warm (alcoholic) and dry but not candied. Pour liberally around the barbecue.

Finally, from Spain is the Castillo de Monseran Garnacha 2004. This is the full meal deal with meaty, spicy, floral, black cherry aromas with some leather and barnyard notes. On the palate, it is spicy with black cherry, plum, licorice, and meaty, peppery flavours. Dry, slightly warm, it has both good fruit and acidity. It is ready to drink and offers terrific value under $10.

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MARRENON CHARDONNAY 2004, VIN DE PAYS DE VAUCLUSE, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price: $10.99
UPC: 3256811113553
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Citrus, mineral, baked apple flavours with bitter quince finish.

RUDOLF MULLER RIESLING CHARDONNAY 2004, PFALZ, GERMANY
Price:$11.99
UPC: 4006542013665
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Red apple, chalky, melon, citrus notes throughout.

FISHERMAN RIESLING QUALITATSWEIN 2004, RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY
Price: $9.95
UPC: 742881010128
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Mineral, fruity apple skin flavours. Summer sipper.

OBIKWA SHIRAZ 2004, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA
Price: $9.49
UPC: 6001108004079
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Round, easy sipping patio red.

LONG FLAT RED CABERNET SHIRAZ 2003, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $11.99
UPC: 093452433005
Score: 85/100
Remarks: A warm, dry basic barbecue red.

WINE CASTILLO DE MONSERAN GARNACHA 2004, CARINENA, ARAGON, SPAIN
Price: $9.95
UPC: 3378630306227
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Supple spicy, black cherry, licorice, peppery flavours.