Imported Versus Domestic

It's a question B.C. wineries have been asking themselves for months and they have come to the conclusion you are willing to pay more.

A decade and a half after NAFTA promised a level playing field when it comes to government taxes and subsidies for all wine, the true cost of B.C. wine is surfacing.

Local producers fought for and won some transitional subsidies to help ready themselves to compete against the rest of the wine world back in the early 1990s but the final subsidies melted away recently and prices are rising.

Add to that a recent price hike from tax hungry Victoria and some new releases have jumped by as much as $2.50 per bottle. As a result you simply don't get much from B.C. for less than $15.

You could argue that $15 isn't all that expensive but it's a minimum three dollars and in some case four dollars above many comparable (in quality) import wines.

Restaurants are in a similar quandary because their standard markup on B.C. wine is triple the price they pay on the back end. That means any decent local bottle has to sell for $40 or more on the wine list.

It's a delicate balancing act and one that will test the nerves of producers, retailers and consumers in the months to come.

Today we look at three pairs of wine: two roses, two sauvignon blanc and two merlots. Each tasting set contains a local and an import wine. The choice is yours.

Rose has had a tough time making it in this market. Much of it has to do with our cool climate and short window for ideal rose sipping weather although in recent years the season is getting longer and warmer.

Add to that a poor selection and zero marketing by the major government retailer and you have a category in disarray. Rose does best in warm weather so it should be here in stores in May and gone by September.

The first of two pinks worth checking is the Nekeas Rose 2002 from Navarra, Spain. It has a pale raspberry colour and an intense cherry, raspberry jam nose with spicy, almond, earthy notes. It is very fresh, rich and round on the palate with just the right amount of sweetness. Lots of strawberry jam and peppery maraschino fruit flavours mark the aftertaste. This is "rockin' " rose that is perfect for summer lunch or picnics.

The homegrown pink that caught our taste buds is Arrowleaf 2003 Red Feather, an unconventional 36/34/30 blend of pinot noir, merlot and auxerrois. Fresh peach, mineral, strawberry and slightly minty aromas mark its nose; the textures are soft, round, fresh and balanced with tasty mineral, raspberry, earthy/peachy flavours. It's sweet but there is enough acidity and fresh fruit to balance the sugar. Perfect for that midday summer picnic on the patio or serve before dinner. Well done.

The Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003 from California's Russian River is a winner. Bright melon, green apple, mineral, honey lime and rind aromas mix with a touch of smoky jalapeno. Fresh, rich, round with a touch of sweetness it has an attractive mix of acidity and intense fruit flavour. Its super grassy, honeydew, lime rind, floral, light bell pepper flavours finish crisp with a long lime and honeyed-apple finish. This is outstanding Russian River fruit that is well worth the price.

Local challenge comes from Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Proprietor's Reserve 2003. Citrus rind, mineral, light lees and green peach and kiwi aromas make for an attractive nose. The style is soft, round and slightly sweet with fresh kiwi, canned grapefruit and green apple flavours. You'll like its easy-drinking style. There is fine acidity and a sweet finish that will appeal to many consumers. Drink young and well chilled or serve with spicy Asian/Indian dishes.

Today's red picks feature the merlot grape: one from Sicily the other the Okanagan.

Danzante Merlot della Sicilia 2001 is from the Frescobaldi/Mondavi Italian joint venture. The grapes are selected from the province of Agrigento in Sicily. Expect quite a spicy, peppery, gamey red with cherry jam and cedar/saddle leather aromas. On the palate it is dry, round, slightly tight with spicy, cherry and orange rind flavours. This is elegant, stylish merlot that sees no wood from start to finish.

The Mission Hill Merlot Five Vineyards 2002 is a similar study in style. Smoky, peppery, spicy, green olive, vanilla aromas mix with a smooth, round dry red with ripe cherry, sweet smoky vanilla, coffee, fruit cake flavours with hints of cedar, toasted clove and stewed tomato. Fine textures from an easy-drinking flavourful everyday B.C. red. Serve liberally around the barbecue.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Mixed Picks

WINE: Nekeas Rose Cabernet Sauvignon - Grenache 2002, Navarra, Spain
PRICE: $12.65
UPC: 617835005218
SCORE: 87/100
COMMENTS: Rich, round and fresh on the palate with just the right amount of sweetness.

WINE: Arrowleaf Red Feather 2003, Okanagan Valley.
PRICE: $11.95
UPC: 626990032250
SCORE: 86/100
COMMENTS: Sweet fresh fruit flavours and fine acidity. Perfect for picnics and patios.

WINE: Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Proprietor's Reserve 2003, Okanagan Valley.
PRICE: $13.49
UPC: 063657005729
SCORE: 86/100
COMMENTS: Fresh, easy-drinking style with good acidity and a sweet finish.

WINE: Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Sauvignon Reserve 2003, Sonoma County, Ca.
PRICE: $22.00
UPC: 085000010822
SCORE: 91/100
COMMENT: Great grassy, honeydew, lime rind, flavours. Outstanding.

WINE: Danzante Merlot della Sicilia 2001, Sicily, Italy
PRICE: $15.95
UPC: 8022840759957
SCORE: 87/100
COMMENTS: A stylish merlot made without wood.

WINE: Mission Hill Merlot Five Vineyards 2002, Okanagan Valley.
PRICE: $16.99
UPC: 776545985156
SCORE: 87/100
COMMENTS: Ripe cherry, smoky vanilla, coffee, fruit cake.