Icewine ― As Cool As It Gets

According to winemaker Tilman Hainle conditions were perfect for an icewine harvest, "it was cold enough that we had plenty of time to process the grapes without being hurried. It's still very cold, so we'll have time to do a second press, which will probably turn into a select late harvest wine.

Hainle says January is fairly late for an icewine harvest, but the late date usually points to a good vintage. "The more hang time the grapes get, the more concentrated and complex the flavours become."

Hainle Vineyards, the region's first family of icewine, picked five acres of grapes in Peachland this week including riesling and traminer varieties.

The British Columbia Wine Institute, which monitors icewine harvests across the province, reported 434 tons of icewine grapes picked in Kelowna, Westbank, Peachland, Naramata, Okanagan Falls, Oliver and Keremeos by 17 wineries.

Icewine, or eiswein as its German originators termed it, is highly flavoured, intensely sweet dessert wine. By regulation, it must be produced exclusively from grapes that have been harvested, naturally frozen on the vine, and pressed in a continuous process while the air temperature is -8 Celsius or lower -- ideally in the -11 to -14 degree range.

The actual procedure involves picking frozen grapes, or marbles as they are sometimes referred to, and then crushing them while they are still frozen. At this point, the water content of the grape (now in the form of ice), is crushed and easily discarded. What's left, and it isn't much, is a concentrated honey-like syrup, that when fermented, yields the much-coveted nectar.

I recently had the privilege to taste several B.C. icewines and what follows is a selection of the some of the current releases in the market.

A perennial favourite is the Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2003. Winemaker Bruce Nicholson gets intense mineral, baked apple and citrus rind aromas in the glass along with apricot, mineral, dried peach, red apple and marmalade flavours. It's rich, viscous and sweet with fine intensity of flavour throughout. This is the real deal.

By contrast the Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2003 is slightly fatter in style and lower in acidity with baked apple and citrus rind aromas. It too is rich and viscous in the mouth with tasty ripe apricot, pear, mineral and baked citrus fruit flavours. It's soft but will have wide appeal -- drink now.

The Quails' Gate Riesling Icewine 2003 hits all the right buttons beginning with a fabulous mix of mineral, ripe peach, red apple and lemon aromas. On the palate, it is rich, sweet and elegant with good acidity. More citrus, baked pear and ripe peach flavours round out the finish. I love the elegance and flavour intensity, even if it finishes a bit soft. Drink now with fresh fruit or sip it solo.

Another longtime producer with an excellent reputation is Walter Gehringer and the Gehringer Brothers Riesling Ice Wine 2003 is superb. Fruit is at the forefront of the '03 with its floral citrus rind, mineral, red apple skin aromas. Look for plenty of orange citrus rind, ripe red apple and juicy mango/honey flavours.

Winemaker Sandra Oldfield takes icewine in a different direction with her Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Kerner Icewine 2003. Typically floral, the '03 Kerner has richer undertones of baked apples and peaches from the warmer than normal growing season. The entry is round and sweet with soft acidity but it's not cloying. The finish is peaches and apples with a small streak of mineral. It's not too big and, hence, ready to sip now. Good value. Tinhorn suggests fresh fruits, cheese or a lighter pastry to accompany it or in small amounts with a rich pate, such as foie gras before dinner.

The Sumac Ridge Gewurztraminer Icewine 2003 honours a grape variety that has long been a winery favourite. It has a gorgeous spicy 'gewurz' nose with litchi fruit and mango undertones. The entry is rich and smooth with plenty of residual sugar throughout its bright, honey and pineapple/tropical fruit flavours with distinct floral notes. Fine balance, weight and length extended throughout its long spicy finish. Well done.

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Sun Peaks Resort (Kamloops) and the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society will hold the Seventh Annual Icewine Festival at Sun Peaks, Jan. 20 to 23. The weekend extravaganza features a progressive icewine tasting that has participants walking throughout the alpine village sampling icewines from more than 20 wineries. Seminars and winemakers dinners, along with lift tickets round out what should be a perfect weekend of ice (wine) and snow.

For information on Ice Wine Festival Packages, contact Sun Peaks Central Reservations at 1-800-807 3257 or log on at www.thewinefestivals.com.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Icewine, Okanagan Valley, BC

Wine Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2003
Price  $52.99
UPC   063657005750
Score 92/100
Remarks    Intense mineral, baked apple dried peach and marmalade flavours.

Wine Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2003
Price  $59.99
UPC   836909010594
Score 89/100
Remarks    Rich, fat, warm apricot and vinyl flavours.

Wine Quails' Gate Riesling Icewine 2003
Price  $54.99
UPC   778856303070
Score 90/100
Remarks    Elegance with flavour intensity of baked pears and ripe peaches.

Wine Gehringer Brothers Riesling Ice Wine 2003
Price  $47.99
UPC   623871030039
Score 92/100
Remarks    Ripe red apple, mineral, juicy mango, honey flavours.

Wine Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Kerner Icewine 2003
Price  $19.95
UPC   624802034072
Score 89/100
Remarks    Perfect in small amounts with a rich pate before dinner.

Wine Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer Icewine 2003
Price  $29.99
UPC   778876010934
Score 91/100
Remarks    Look for a gorgeous spicy nose with litchi fruit and mango.