Top Ten Syrah

Some claim it came to Marseilles, France around 600 BC via the Phocaeans of Asia Minor, who in turn are said to have imported the grape from Shiraz, Persia.

Others point to the Romans as bringing the variety from Syracuse, Sicily, to the Rhone in the third century AD. Still others implicate the Crusaders returning from the Middle East via Cyprus. But in the end, it seems that syrah was already widely planted in the Rhone by Roman times and it's that notion that led scientists to consider the grape may be indigenous to France.

In 1998, plant geneticist Carole Meredith, of the University of California at Davis, and Jean-Michel Boursiquot, of L'Ecole Nationale Superieure Agronomique de Montpellier, proved just that. Employing DNA research they discovered that syrah is the child of two obscure French varieties, dureza and mondeuse blanche. Neither the former native to the Ardeche, nor the latter from the Savoie, was considered distinguished.

That said, there is little doubt the sum of the union has become a serious grape given the gusto with which wine drinkers have taken to French syrah and its New World "shiraz" version. Retailers like to position shiraz as merlot with flavour, and it's the smoky meaty fruity peppery flavours often flecked with bacon, leather chocolate and violets that make it so much fun to drink.

93/100 Highland Estates Alisos Hills Syrah 2005
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States
Alisos is cool-climate syrah that is 100 per cent grown at Los Alamos in Santa Barbara County. Look for an intense red wine with smoky, floral, peppery red fruit aromas and flavours. On the palate, the wine is meaty with black raspberry, cherry cola flavours. The attack is round, the textures dense almost beefy with super ripe fruit. Alisos is becoming consistently good year in and year out.
Tasted: 2007-12-02 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $53.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $60.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Summit Fine Wines; ON $43.00 (750 ml); QC $43.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 293209;   UPC: 081584002727
Producer: Kendall-Jackson Vineyards and Winery
Distributor: Summit Fine Wines

93/100 Montes Folly Syrah 2004
Apalta Valley, Santa Cruz, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Chocolate, vanilla, white pepper, meaty, black cherry jam, tobacco, barnyard, kirsch aromas. Rich, round, warm, supple palate with light smooth tannins. Black cherry kirsch, plum jam, peppery, spicy, orange peel, tobacco, vanilla, smoky chocolate flavours. Young and very warm on the finish but has fine fruit intensity and tannin ripeness. Needs 3-5 years. Serve in the colder months slightly chilled.
Tasted: 2007-07-16 by AG-ST
Prices: US $65.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops
Producer: Viña Montes S.A.
Distributor: Whitehall Agencies Inc.  
93/100 Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
The 'anti-Grange,' RWT is a single-region (Barossa) shiraz that is aged in 100 per cent French oak. In the case of the '04 that's 69 per cent new oak and 31 per cent one-year old hogsheads. The colour is nearly opaque. The nose an enticing mix of aromatic, dark red fruits with a blueberry undercurrent - a sure sign of high quality. On the palate the flavours are rich and saturated with vanilla cherry kirsch, floral, plum, licorice, smoky tobacco flavours and spicy, fine grained tannins. More finesse than power. This is a very fine RWT along the lines of the 2002. Seven years on from its first release and 10 years from the inaugural vintage RWT could be considered among the best red wine made at Penfolds. Made for the long haul.
Tasted: 2007-07-16 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $110.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $122.00 (750 ml) specialty; MB $199.99 (750 ml); NB $115.00 (750 ml); NF $115.00 (750 ml); NS $145.85 (750 ml); ON $118.00 (750 ml); QC $120.00 (750 ml); SK $114.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 564278;   UPC: 012354072602
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Foster's Wine Estates; Southcorp Wines Canada

92/100 John Duval Entity Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
Some 45 per cent aged in new French oak barrels, Entity boasts a peppery, bacon, smoky, meaty, floral, boysenberry, black berry nose. Ripe, round, supple and smooth with good finesse. Spicy, black cherry, licorice, gamey, vanilla, smoky, garrigue, and blackberry flavours. Good finish and length but a bit young and slightly tart on the finish. Needs two to four years more bottle time. Sourced from Stockwell, Light Pass, Krondorf and Marananga regions in Barossa Valley.
Tasted: 2007-11-12 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $54.99 (750 ml) speculative - Mark Anthony Brands
CSPC: 380071
Producer: John Duval Wines
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants

92/100 Sequel Syrah 2004
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
This Long Shadows project involves former Stimson Lane head Allan Shoup and former Penfolds (Grange) chief winemaker John Duval. Tobacco, chocolate, vanilla, sausage meat, spicy, white pepper, floral, black cherry jam, licorice, light barnyard aromas with a bacon streak. Rich, ripe, round, elegant but full palate with smooth tannins. Smoky garrigue, black pepper, meaty, spicy, orange peel, black plum, cherry, tobacco, mocha flavours. Fine integration of tannins, oak and fruit with a touch of youthful acidity, alcohol and tannins poking through on the finish. Needs 3-7 years.
Tasted: 2007-09-21 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $84.49 (750 ml) speculative listing - Mark Anthony Brands; US $55.00 (750 ml) retail
CSPC: 039347;   UPC: 808755003839
Producer: Long Shadows Vintners
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants 
91/100 Planeta Syrah 2005
Sicily, Italy
If you are more of a red wine person than look to the Planeta Syrah 2005. The vineyard is now 13 years old and that, in combination with only 30 per cent new French oak, yields a big, inviting red with smoky, barnyard, licorice root and roasted mulberry notes. The texture is supple with plenty of warm generous, black berry jam, and minty bay leaf and licorice flavours. At Planeta they suggest you pair it with a piece of mature Pecorino cheese. I can't wait.
Tasted: 2007-10-03 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $43.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $49.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; QC $36.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 011254;   UPC: 8020735000092
Producer: Planeta
Distributor: Halpern; Winspeer International Group Ltd.

90/100 Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
Peppery, spicy, pencil shaving, blackberry, licorice, vanilla, coffee, tobacco, light Band-Aid aromas. Round, ripe, supple palate with light grainy tannins but elevated acidity. Menthol, coffee, black olive, vanilla, tobacco, gamey, black cherry flavours. Finish is tart and warm but has some good fruit. Needs a bit more extract and less acidity. Needs a few more years to soften.
Tasted: 2007-11-03 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $44.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $49.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $55.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; ON $40.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 135558;   UPC: 00032726001603
Producer: Peter Lehmann Wines Limited
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.

89/100 Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2005
Puente Alto, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
White pepper, garrigue, vanilla, smoky licorice, eucalyptus, plum, black cherry, rubber, sausage aromas. Round, supple, dry palate with sweet vanilla, mocha, plum, black cherry, licorice, bay leaf, mint, peppery, meaty flavours with a milk chocolate, herbal finish. Good intensity and balance if a bit oaky at this point. Will improve but very drinkable.
Tasted: 2007-12-04 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $24.99 (750 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 641548;   UPC: 07804320117294
Producer: Vina Concha y Toro S.A.
Distributor: Select Wine Merchants

89/100 Montes Alpha Syrah 2005
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Big spicy, peppery, smoky, sausage, mocha, bay leaf, vanilla, saddle leather, black cherry aromas with some menthol. Rich, round, dry, slightly tannic palate. Peppery, menthol, spicy, garrigue, vanilla, coffee, sausage, and black cherry flavours with some smoky leather on the finish. It is still young and will need 2-3 years to dissipate the tannins and oak.
Tasted: 2007-12-04 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $26.00 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $27.40 (750 ml) specialty listing; QC $23.50 (750 ml)
CSPC: 603548;   UPC: 00715126000161
Producer: Viña Montes S.A.
Distributor: Whitehall Agencies Inc.

89/100 Montgras Antu Ninquen Syrah 2005
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Floral, menthol, white pepper, savoury, gamey, sweaty saddle, roasted bell pepper, cherry nose with some vanilla and bay leaf. Rich, round, supple, full palate with light, smooth tannins. Spicy, black cherry, peppery, meaty, cassis, menthol, bay leaf, and smoky licorice root flavours. Fresh with good intensity and finesse. Fine effort and value.
Tasted: 2007-11-15 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $21.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $22.99 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $29.95 (750 ml); QC $28.50 (750 ml)
CSPC: 173500;   UPC: 07804407001102
Producer: Viña MontGras
Distributor: David Herman & Son Ltd.; The Kirkwood Group

89/100 Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Ridge Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
Big spicy dusty white pepper nose with smoky, blueberry leather notes. The entry is smooth but dry with more dusty earthy blackberry jam. This is big powerful shiraz that needs an equally strong dish to stand up to it. Roast lamb or venison would be a good choice.
Tasted: 2007-10-24 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $22.00 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $30.00 (750 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 094342;   UPC: 00853065000115
Producer: Thorn-Clarke Wines
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants Ltd.