Humans Could Be The Key to Pinot Noir

Locating the perfect pinot is no easy undertaking.

Often it takes more effort than the casual drinker is willingly to expend, hence the popularity of the far more abundant merlot and more recently syrah.

A few years back I had the good fortune to attend the inaugural Pinot Noir 2001 conference in Wellington, N.Z. where along with a large number of pinot-philes I spent several days learning more about this incredibly fussy grape.

What we discovered is there is no magic formula when it comes to making great pinot, only hard work and perseverance.

New Zealand wine grower Steve Smith, of Craggy Range, believes that, "making pinot noir is not just about climate and soil. It's about human interaction, too." He thinks grape varieties must be matched to humans and he asks the question, "Have you ever seen a great cabernet wine maker who makes great pinot noir?"

The truth is pinot noir is an extremely fussy grape whether you are growing it or turning it into wine. The problems begin with its thin skin and escalate to a genetically unstable grape that doesn't like heat or cold and is extremely vulnerable to frost.

Pinot noir loves a cool climate but it must have a dry, warm summer and dry, cool autumn to really thrive (pinot hates the humidity of fall), and that's a difficult micro-climate to find anywhere.

As Smith says, "It needs to get hot but not too hot. Any day over 30 C during the last days of ripening is harmful as are long streaks of extreme heat during the growing season."

The French have long wrestled with pinot noir in Burgundy where the strategy is to do as little as possible. The policy of non-intervention goes something like: plant it in the right soil and then pick it. Crush it and then ferment it. It's hard to argue with success.

Today we present an assortment of pinot noirs from around the globe and, while they maybe far from the perfect pinot, they won't break the budget. What they may do is prod you to continue the journey. Here's what I found.

It's hardly fair to expect too much from a pinot that sells for less than $20 let alone $9, yet somehow Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2002, grown in Chile's

Colchagua Valley, rises above its station. The aromas and flavours are a mix spicy, licorice root and black cherries streaked with a touch of earth. A soft, affordable, sipping red.

I was similarly impressed by the Wyndham Estate Bin 333 Pinot Noir 2001 with its clean jammy, minty, berry fruit nose and soft, slightly sweet, cherry berry flavours and smooth finish. There's a touch of spice and barnyard in the finish that fills out a simple, but well made pinot selling at a reasonable price.

California pinot is the most improved version globally as evidenced by the Fetzer Vineyards Pinot Noir Valley Oaks 2001. Like most Fetzer efforts it begins with a solid varietal backbone mixing cranberry and black cherry fruit with a soft, round demeanor. There's a bit of heat (alcohol) on the mid-palate but it disappears into a smoky vanilla and bacon bits finish.

A step up in style is the Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Private Selection 2001. Look for a spicy, earthy aroma mixed with sweet cherry and smoky mint leaf. It's round and soft on entry with dry smoky black cherry flavours and a briary character in the aftertaste. A solid pinot that will shine with the likes of duck cassoulet or grilled lamb chops.

Farther south in Santa Barbara County, the Cambria Pinot Noir 2000, grown in the cool, dry Santa Maria Valley, is an exciting mix of tea and strawberry jam with undertones of spice and leather. It's dry and lean on the palate with spicy strawberry, licorice flavours. It is not a plush pinot but it's solid, nonetheless. Good value, too.

The finale is a very French pinot noir, Louis Jadot

Bourgogne 1999 from Burgundy. Expect a firm dusty cedar and dried, black cherry nose. In the mouth there is plenty of acidity and just enough softness to counteract the slightly dry bitter tannins in the finish. Duck confit or cheese would pair well with this pinot that like most Bourgogne begs to be served with food.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Chile, South Australia, California and France

Wine: Cono Sur 2002, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Price: $8.99
UPC: 7804320753454
Score: 13.5/20
Comments: Spicy, licorice root and black cherries.

Wine: Wyndham Estate Bin 333 2001, South Australia
Price: $15.99
UPC: 08043125076
Score: 14/20
Comments: Clean jammy, minty, berry fruit.

Wine: Fetzer Vineyards Valley Oaks, California
Price: $17.99
UPC: 082896700172
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: A soft, affordable, sipping pinot.

Wine: Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2001, Central Coast, Calif.
Price: $19.99
UPC: 86003091931
Score: 15/20
Comments: Smokey, black cherry flavours.

Wine: Cambria Estate 2000, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, Calif.
Price: $22.95
UPC: 26319000548
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Raspberry, strawberry, licorice flavours.

Wine: Louis Jadot Bourgogne Rouge
Price: $24.99
UPC: 3535921250007
Score: 14/20
Comments: Dusty cedar and dried black cherry aroma.