Hot Picks from Spain

Wherever you travel diversity is a theme in Spain in both food and wine. Often you need only to move down the road a few kilometres to experience different food, different grapes and different wines.

For the moment, Spanish wine is nowhere near the heart throb that Australia is with local consumers but sales are increasing with dollars spent rising quicker than litres consumed and that's a good thing for the category.

What it means is consumers are beginning to make choices based on flavour as opposed to only price. In the year 2000, British Columbians spent $10.7 million on Spanish wine and drank 670,000 litres. In the last twelve months you spent $12.3 million and consumed 703,000 litres -- a modest but important upward trend.

Today's six picks should grab your interest if you are willing to taste and explore their flavours in the spirit of discovery. Here are my notes.

The rush to red, and the run from chardonnay, has left the door open to other white wines such as sauvignon blanc, riesling and viognier or, in the case of Spain, a little known white in called Albariño that is grown in the cool northwest corner of Spain at Galicia.

Locally you can try the Martin Codax 2002 Albariño. It has the typical pale, straw colour but what an inviting, aromatic nose of honey, apricots, apples and almonds. The taste is fresh and racy with bright acidity and a tart lemon/green apple finish. Shellfish are a natural here or a seafood ceviche. It's well worth the money for the adventurous and keep in mind the Spanish consider Albariño to be the premier white wine variety in the country.

It's now clear the stampede to unbelievably cheap red wine is moving from fad to trend in B.C. but I caution all -- please take your tasting skills with you. Cheap means nothing if a wine has no taste.

Fortunately that's not the case with Casa La Luna a delightful little red wine from North Central Spain. Here, 200 kilometres from Madrid, the Duero River supports an impressive patch of old-ish vines that average 25 years or better in age. Severe temperatures in summer and winter, along with sparse soil, conspire to keep the yields impressively low for a wine at this price.

The La Luna Red (there is also a white available) is made at Bodegas Fuentespina in the noted Ribera del Duero appellation and crafted in the same manner as the reds bearing the Ribera's premier moniker. It's soft and round with both ripe fruit and acidity and a very pleasing dark fruit aftertaste. It simply doesn't get any better for $9.

Valdepeñas is a well-known region producing large amounts of cost-effective wines such as Navarro López Pergolas Old Vines Tempranillo 1999. Tempranillo is a specialty of the bodega and it shows in this American oaked version. Its old-style label doesn't compare with snappy graphics of La Luna but be sure to give this earthy, round, delicious sipping red a spot at any barbecue. It is tasty, inexpensive and made for food.

Just when you think you've hit two good value reds can there possibly be a third in the flight? The answer is yes. Castillo de Maluenda Garnacha Vinas Viejas 1999 is 100 per cent garnacha (grenache) made from the properties oldest-yielding vines situated at heights of between 860 and 1004 metres above sea level. The grapes are hand-picked, parcel by parcel and the results are stunning.

Look for gobs of black cherry fruit spiced with licorice and vanilla. It's supple, round, fleshy and fun to drink. There isn't much of this around and it definitely needs to be reordered in sensible quantities but try searching out what's left in the system. Good hunting.

Experienced wine drinkers would associate the Osborne name with sherry, but this time out it is attached to the Osborne Solaz Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, from de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain. The 80/20 tempranillo/cabernet sauvignon offers up bright red fruit flavours reminiscent of plums with a spicy earthy aftertaste. Another well-priced red you can comfortably serve around the barbecue.

The finale is a substantial bottle of red wine that takes you to a higher level. Gotim Bru 2000 is made by Castell del Remei some 120 kilometres north and west of Barcelona in the Costers Del Segre appellation. The wine is perhaps best described as a "New World," Spanish blend of 55 per cent tempranillo, 25 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 20 per cent merlot.

It has great colour and presence in the glass with an enticing rich aroma of black fruits, cedar, anise and vanilla. American oak ageing has furthered softened its edge allowing one to savour the blackberries, black currants and plummy fruit flavours throughout. A perfect foil to lamb, paella or Manchego cheese.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING:

Wines of Spain

Wine: Martin Codax Albariño 2002, Galicia
Price: $22.95
UPC: 637789336633
Score: 16/20
Comments: Honey, apricots, apples and almonds.

Wine: Casa La Luna 2001, Castilla y Leon
Price: $8.99
UPC: 812205008008
Score: 15/20
Comments: It doesn't get any better for $9.

Wine: Navarro López Pergolas Old Vines Tempranillo 1999, Valdepeñas
Price: $9.95
UPC: 784585001897
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Earthy, round, delicious sipping red.

Wine: Castillo de Maluenda Garnacha Vinas Viejas 1999, Calatayud, Aragon
Price: $9.99
UPC: 8425020096130
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Black cherry fruit spiced with licorice and vanilla.

Wine: Osborne Solaz Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Price: $11.95
UPC: 22851801018
Score: 14/20
Comments: Plums with a spicy earthy aftertaste.

Wine: Gotim Bru 2000, Costers del Segre, Cataluna
Price: $23.95
UPC: 8425235753026
Score: 17/20
Comments: Black fruits, cedar, anise and vanilla.