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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

With a little over three weeks to go to Christmas, it is time to get serious about laying some wines in for the holidays.

It is already taking far too long to get across the city and the chaotic holiday traffic is only going to get worse. So, if you are really keen on relaxing those last few days before Christmas and perhaps even putting your feet up in front of fire, this is the week to get your wine needs organized. We can help today with a look at some sure bets from the leading varietal wine categories, including a brief assessment of the shifting fortunes of the major grapes.

 

The current and longtime star of varietal wines is Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by a strong resurgence in cool-climate Chardonnay, with similar interest in Pinot Noir, Malbec and to some extent Riesling. Not quite as beloved at the moment are Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah/shiraz and Merlot. There are not a lot of scientific studies that explain why consumers are so attracted to Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon but their sales numbers would suggest little else matters.

 

Local Chardonnay has come a long way with fine offerings from Meyer Family 2010 Tribute Series Sonia Gaudet, $35; Mission Hill Perpetua 2010, $35; Quails' Gate Stewart Family Reserve 2010, $35; and Cedar-Creek Platinum Series 2010, $40. Internationally, some of the year's bargain bottles must include: Yalumba Organic 2010, $17; Bonterra (Organic) Chardonnay 2010, $19; Errazuriz Wild Ferment 2011, $23; and Rodney Strong Sonoma County Chardonnay, $23.

 

I am never surprised by the number of Cabernet Sauvignon lovers in B.C. who simply can't get enough of the big minty, leafy, cassis-flavoured red. Its popularity is undoubtedly linked to the early importation and attraction to Napa Valley cabernet in the late 1970s right through the 1990s. It would appear our interest in the rich, masculine red remains unabated in 2012. Favourites tasted this year include: Mont Gras Soleus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $13; Fetzer Valley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $15; Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010, $18; Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $22; and the 337 Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon, $19. Our top holiday pick is the Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $18 from Sonoma County.

 

Pinot Noir is beloved and frankly bewildering. While most of today's wine picks are based on tasting 15 or 20 wines; in the case of Pinot Noir it is more like a distillation from 35 to 40 samples. There's not a lot of tasty, inexpensive Pinot Noir out there so take these suggestions to heart. Little Yering Pinot Noir 2010, $16; Tinhorn Creek Pinot Noir 2009, $19; and Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne Paulée 2009, $20. Our pick for the holidays from Sonoma County is the La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, $30 We have said so much about Mal-bec this year there isn't much left to discuss. Its rich, fleshy, ripe fruit with a savoury edge is the current red wine fashion so make sure you have a selection on hand to serve over the holidays.

 

Sauvignon Blanc is the versatile party white you can serve with or without food. Cool, fresh, bright, light or mostly un-wooded and under screw cap is the current model of choice. Terrific buys include Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011, $13.50, just about as good as it gets for inexpensive Sauvignon made with organically grown grapes. Two other sure bets include Domaine du Clos du Bourg Sauvignon Touraine 2011, $16, and the Francois Lurton Les Fumées Blanches 2008, $13. Bring on the appetizers.

 

Finally, as more and more varietal wines begin to look alike, Riesling is returning to the limelight with its electric personality and an uncanny ability to pair well with a variety of multicultural cuisines. Expect to see more Riesling served at holiday parties and don't think sweet, think perfect with food. Best bets include Washington's Château Ste. Michelle Riesling 2010, $16; locally you can't miss with the Wild Goose Riesling 2011, $17; and CedarCreek Riesling 2011, $18 .

 

Our holiday pick is a delicious Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from the nearby Okanagan Valley.

 

De Martino Legado Reserva Chardonnay 2011, Limari Valley, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 07804395000323

Score: 89/100

 

Remarks: The Legado chardonnay represents the best of modern international chardonnay. Like White Burgundy it treads the fine line between fruit and terroir. The attack is fresh and juicy with grapefruit, honey, peach, pineapple, creamy lees and light vanilla flavours. A super wine for entertaining and very versatile at the dinner table or as an accompaniment to a myriad of party appetizers.

 

Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $18

UPC: 85000011638

Score: 88/100

 

Remarks: This Sonoma County version of Martini cabernet speaks to its new ownership under at Gallo. The fruit is a mix of Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys and the result is a cool, red fruit style when compared to Napa with fresh plums and black fruits on the nose. The palate is a mix of dried herbs and cocoa all with a dollop of vanilla. A friendly easy-sipping style that is ready to drink.

 

La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $30

UPC: 049331002307

Score: 89/100

 

Remarks: La Crema almost always over delivers and it begins with its cherry jam, tobacco nose streaked with vanilla, smoke and a touch of celery and carrot. The attack is smooth and juicy with smoky vanilla, tobacco, celery salt, coffee, strawberry jam, compost flavours and chocolate-y finish. A fine juicy, fruity style that helps to combat the sweet oak in the finish.

 

Vina Cobos Felino Malbec 2011, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $20

UP: 897941000974

Score: 89/100

 

Remarks: American winemaker/partner Paul Hobbs is the force behind this Vina Cobos brand. Over the years the wine has leaned out a touch offering less overt oak in favour of more minerality and terroir but it remains ripe. Look for super ripe, almost sweet, black cherry fruit flecked with poultry spice, liquorice and roasted mushroom flavours with just a hint of acidity poking through the fine. Try this with grilled meats.

 

Wine Dr. Pauly - Bergweiler Riesling 2011, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $19

UPC: 4004888891039

Score: 88/100

 

Remarks: Love the floral fruity notes that entice right from the get go; mango, lemons and peach grab you r attention but all with hint of wet stone and minerality that keeps it dry-ish and fresh. The attack is round and juicy with creamy acidity mixing with fresh cut granny smith apple, pineapple flavours. Ready to drink but enjoy the finesse and delicacy with simply prepared foods.

 

Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $20

UPC: 776545992017

Score: 88/100

 

Remarks: Expect fresh aromatics here. Passion fruit and gooseberry dominate but with some ripe, juicy grapefruit notes and a squeeze of lime rind. A small amount of wood fermented juice adds weight and mid-palate texture to this delicious white. The sweetness in the finish suggests spicy dishes would be complementary be they Western or Occidental.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.