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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Week 2 of our holiday wine- buying guide takes us into the red section, providing the perfect complement to last week's aromatic picks.

 

Regular readers will know the days of cabernet and merlot as the only go-to reds in the market are over. I believe the future of 100-per-cent varietal wine, be it red or white, chardonnay or merlot, may be equally in jeopardy.

 

My sense is that drinkers want some sort of escape and story, and varietal wine just doesn't cut it any more unless it is tied to a specific producer or site that you may have visited or otherwise dream about visiting. It's not the end of varietal wine but rather the beginning of another journey into the world of wine that is likely to be even more interesting.

 

Blends will be a big part of the movement and they must retail at a reasonable price. Either way, be it a blend or varietal, wine must tell a story, or be a story, to be successful. Today's picks will be handy for most holiday gatherings. Remember that party reds must serve more people than dinner wines so I have limited by picks to the sweet spot zone of $12 to $20.

 

When you think of partying, I'm sure some of you think of Greece, but not necessarily Greek wine. Think again. Greece has really improved its vino image, and with traditions that date back to, well ancient Greece, the result can be formidable.

 

We begin with a unique wine that will engage your guests, make you look like a wine genius, and best of all complement a variety of appetizers, including cheese.

 

Boutari Naoussa 2006 from Macedonia is made with an ancient indigenous grape xynomavro (pronounced SEE NO ma vro) that has an earthy, peppery, soy nose streaked with dried cherry, olive and spicy dried tomato notes. The palate is smooth and fresh and elegant with light vanilla, smoky, sour cherry, strawberry, earthy flavours. Serve with chicken skewers, Swedish meatballs, or dolmades.

 

Spain is the home of tapas and its even tinier version pinchos, and it has the wine to accompany every iteration. A yearly favourite for me is Espelt Sauló Garnacha-Cariñena 2007, from modern-thinking producers whose Costa Brava vineyards turn out delicious fruit that the winery simply does not disappoint. Expect a lively, dry, fresh wine with meaty, peppery, spicy, black cherry and raspberry flavours. Nifty value in another versatile red wine.

 

A new listing is the Peter Lehmann Layers Red 2008. If the Australian category is to survive, a blended red (grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, carignan and tempranillo) from an important appellation (Barossa Valley) at an affordable price ($18) is a great start. Add to that no oak and you have a tasty savoury, black olive, licorice, black cherry, floral nose and clean spicy, peppery, black cherry, black raspberry flavours, a recipe for success.

 

Central Italy's Marche province is home to the De Angelis Rosso Piceno 2007, a montepulciano-sangiovese blend. Here the magic of a wonderful vintage turns an ordinary red into something much better at the same price. South-facing hillside vineyards contribute to the character of this warm inviting red with meaty, black cherry jam savoury aromas and round, full-bodied cherry, olive, dark chocolate, smoky flavours. Rustic in a good way and dry enough to enjoy with a variety of appetizers.

 

The important '07 Rhone reds are beginning to appear in the market, but do not overlook the lesser appellation wines in what is a fabulous vintage. In this case, you get all you can want and more from the Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2007, a blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre for a mere $15. It is packed full of southern Rhone dried herb, garrigue and licorice characters on the nose flecked with black cherry and plum jam aromas. The attack is supple and smooth with good richness and acidity followed by more cherry, plum, floral fruit streaked with licorice, pepper and mineral notes. Fairly long and impressive with great fruit and flavour concentration in the finish. An outstanding vintage and great value.

 

We could say 2009 was the year of malbec in Vancouver. It is the grape that essentially punched Australian shiraz in the nose. What makes it so attractive is what you experience with a wine such as Punto Final Malbec 2008. It has a soft, round, supple character, a fresh palate with peppery, savoury, mineral notes, plenty of licorice, mocha, black cherry and plum flavours, and just for fun a warm black raspberry finish. It is really an every night go-to wine that for the moment is bucking the blend trend. Chicken, pork, grilled meats and lamb popsicles all work well here.

 

Next week we will look at some nifty wines for hostess gifts you can be proud to give or receive.

 


ENTERTAINING REDS

 

Boutari Naoussa 2006, Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece

Price      $16

UPC       05201022540504

Score     87/100

Remarks              An ancient indigenous grape with elegance and style.

 

Espelt Sauló Garnacha - Cariñena 2007, Empordà, Catalunya, Spain

Price      $16

UPC       00805109445031

Score     88/100

Remarks              Dry, fresh, warm palate with spicy, black cherry and raspberry flavours.

 

Peter Lehmann Layers Red 2008, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price      $18

UPC       9311910103103

Score     87/100

Remarks              Round tasty peppery, black cherry, black raspberry, tobacco flavours.

 

De Angelis Rosso Piceno Montepulciano - Sangiovese 2007, Marche, Italy

Price      $15

UPC       8032505970047

Score     87/100

Remarks              A fun dry rustic red that pairs well with food. Good value.

 

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2007, Rhone Valley, France

Price      $15

UPC       00604174000639

Score     88/100

Remarks              Great fruit and flavours concentration. Buy it by the case.

 

Renacer Punto Final Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina

Price      $16

UPC       098709085602

Score     88/100

Remarks              Attractive supple mid-palate with a warm black raspberry finish.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.