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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Wine prices continue to soften globally as consumers move away from "expensive" wine in droves.

Holiday Bargain Buys

To say there was some slack in high-end wine prices is an understatement and it is my contention we will all be better off when prices retreat to the point where they have some sort of relationship with the quality of the wine in the bottle.

 

Unfortunately, there is little respite from high prices in B.C., where hefty wine taxes are now a structural element of the provincial budget -- all of which brings us to the question of what to drink for the holidays.

 

The normal weekend format only allows for a half-dozen picks so today I have decided to cover off six different varietals, and or blends, to broaden your holiday shopping list.

Each should make for an excellent wine to entertain with and in some cases without food.

Despite the taxes, all come with a high value-for-money ratio.

 

CHARDONNAY

Chardonnay continues to evolve and refresh its image as it gets leaner and fresher and the oak fades into the background. The value appears to be in Chile with the Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2007 ($13) and the Cono Sur Chardonnay 2007 ($14.50). East across the Andes my pick is the Alamos Chardonnay 2006 ($15) while from California's Sonoma County you can always depend on the cool fruit flavours of the Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2007 at $20.

 

My feature chardonnay is the Domaine La Lieue Chardonnay 2007 $16 from Provence, France. This was a gold medal winner in Paris and I can see, or should I say taste, why. Made by fifth-generation growers in a certified organic environment La Lieue is a winner on so many levels. Bright and fresh with mineral and lees, fine mid-palate weight and a delicious balanced finish. Great value.

 

SAUVIGNON BLANC

It seems as if any sauvignon made by Santa Rita is worth buying this year from the 120 ($11) through the Reserva ($14). For similar value and perhaps a touch rounder is the Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc ($13) or from South Africa the Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($10). Other best bets include the Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($12) and, locally, don't forget the Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc Five Vineyards 2007 ($16).

 

Aficionados should stock up with the Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Valle de Casablanca ($15), surely among the best white wines on the planet for $15. Under screwcap it has remained fresh and delicious all year sporting grapefruit, dried herbs, pepper, grassy, passion fruit flavours. It offers terrific value.

 

OTHER COOL AROMATIC WHITES

Readers will know aromatic whites have been high on my list this year and they make great wines for entertaining. Viognier hasn't made the quantum leap to mainstream winedom but do not miss the Cono Sur Viognier Limited Release 2007 ($11) simply a steal at this price. Locally the CedarCreek Gewurztraminer 2007 ($18) is the perfect spicy food partner. From Spain the Telmo Rodriguez Basa Rueda 2006 ($18) is another white wine of the year candidate based on its fruit balance and verve.

 

The label to look for this weekend is the Deinhard Riesling Classic 2006 ($14) from Rheinhessen, Germany. You will love its peach, red apple, guava, mineral aromas and flavours and fresh, light, off dry palate. Fine finesse with juicy fruit and good value.

 

RED VARIETIES

Perhaps the most interesting of all single red categories, it is tough to single out picks. Castillo de Monséran Garnacha 2006 ($11) is terrific value in a workhorse party red as is the Woop Woop Shiraz 2006 ($16) with its black cherry jam, plum, spicy, menthol, licorice flavours. A touch more funky but solid is the Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007 ($18). Two hits from Spain that specialize in fragrant, fresh flavours are the Old Vines Garnacha de Fuego 2006 ($16) and Espelt Sauló Garnacha ($15).

 

Our holiday pick is the Chono Reserva Syrah 2006 ($18) from Elqui Valley, Chile. Simply one of the best we tasted this year for the price and it's been lowered another dollar since the spring. Look for attractive licorice, menthol, black cherry, meaty flavours with streaks of white pepper and orange peel. A delicious dinner wine.

 

MALBEC

Malbec is flying off the shelves based on price and texture, this is respectively moderate and fairly lush with bright spicy savoury black fruit. Best bets include: Diego Murillo Malbec 2007 ($10); Finca Los Primos Malbec 2007 ($10); LoTengo Malbec 2006 ($14) and the Pascual Toso Malbec 2007 ($14).

 

Our pick here is the Jean Bousquet Malbec (Organic Grapes) 2007 ($17) from Tupungato, Argentina. For $17 you get a lot of wine from its peppery, tobacco, savoury, cherry nose to its full, supple palate and rich black cherry, licorice, mineral, light vanilla, mocha flavours. Cool fruit and balance at an affordable price.

 

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

It's not so easy to find well-made, inexpensive cabernet sauvignon. Getting it mostly right is Finca Los Primos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($10) and Jean Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($16).

Both sport that Argentine savoury spice edge. Nearby Washington fruit soars in the Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($16). All do well with grilled meats.

 

Our lead suggestion is a bit off the wine map but worth investigating: the Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($18) from Upper Galilee, Israel. The style is a pleasing supple one with spicy, vanilla/cassis flavours flecked with plum and olives.

That's it for this week; we suggest you clip this out and carry this with you over the holidays especially if you are headed for a government wine store. Good hunting.

 


Domaine La Lieue Chardonnay 2007, Provence, South of France, France

Price: $16

UPC: 3760015200037

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Bright, fresh and delicious. Bring on the roast chicken.

 

Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price $15

UPC 07804613410019

Score 88/100

Remarks Grapefruit rind, mineral, passion fruit aromas with a touch of lemon.

 

Deinhard Riesling Classic 2006, Rheinhessen, Germany

Price $14

UPC 4003310652101

Score 87/100

Remarks Good finesse with juicy fruit. Good value, fruity style for food.

 

Chono Reserva Syrah 2006, Elqui Valley, Chile

Price $18

UPC 07804606220229

Score 89/100

Remarks Good intensity and balance with a smooth finish. Attractive style.

 

Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Upper Galilee, Galilee, Israel

Price $18

UPC 00736040014270

Score 87/100

Remarks Round, supple, forward style with cassis, plums and olive flavours.

 

Jean Bousquet Malbec (Organic Grapes) 2007, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina

Price $17

UPC 0879716000013

Score 88/100

Remarks Black cherry, savoury, licorice, mineral, mocha flavours. Fine value.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.