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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Recession or slow recovery, there will be no escaping the coming holiday season.

And frankly, given the year that's been, it may well be worth celebrating something, even if it's only the end of 2010.

I know one thing -- many of you will be celebrating at home given that as little as one or two drinks can put you perilously near the new .05 blood alcohol limit. Given the power the police have to take your car and licence and then fine you large sums of money, driving anywhere after a few drinks is simply no longer an option.

 

Drinking at home does have its advantages, beginning with drinking for half price. That's right -- the home wine list is sans any restaurant or bar markup. While drinking twice as much for the same price is an option, I suggest spending 20 or 30 per cent more and simply drinking better, and you'll still stand to save a fair bit of money.

 

Heading into the holidays, my plan is to recommend a series of wines for you to enjoy at home with friends or to give as gifts to wine lovers. As always, each will be at a price that befits the quality of the wine. Today, we look at some highly versatile bottles that should work with a variety of foods and, just as importantly, whether you are standing or seated for dinner.

 

We begin our holiday picks with a wonderful bottle of champagne. At $61, the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve N/V is almost shockingly flavourful. The nose is delicate with nutty, baked apple, brioche and light honey aromas. The attack is fresh and crisp with fine elegance and a delicate, persistent, fine mousse with juicy citrus, baked apple, pear, and cherry flavours with a toasted nut finish. It has fine balance and finish and is showing some interesting bottle development. An impressive, mouth-filling bubble that over-delivers for the price. Best of all you can serve it with a variety of foods or simply solo to make a statement. It also makes a great gift.

 

California chardonnay can only go one way in 2011 and that has to be down the fresh and crisp route. If not, it will not survive. One such producer who has made the change is Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2008. Despite a warm Alexander Valley appellation in the north eastern reaches of Sonoma County, the '08, under screw cap, is hitting all the right notes. You will love its smoky, spicy, floral notes and its judicious mix of guava, peach and honey aromas flavoured with flecks of orange, honey, butter, spicy lees and nutty, green apple and pear skin flavours. There is just the right amount of tension to keep it interesting throughout. Crab is a great choice here, as is chicken and or pork. It also makes a great hostess gift.

 

The Saumur Lieu-dit Les Pouches 2009 is a great choice for holiday entertaining. This 100-per-cent Chenin Blanc sends a signal you care about wine, and its floral, honey, grassy, green apple, almond aromas will thrill your guests. Its fresh ripe, green apple, honey, chalky flavours call out for seafood dishes or appetizers. According to my notes, this Chenin Blanc has over-delivered for five straight vintages, making it a remarkable buy for $18.

 

Blends are the trend so get with it, people, and serve some Cotes du Rhone over the Holidays. The Ogier Cotes du Rhone Heritages 2007 hails from a great year in the Rhone and the Grenache/Syrah blend is only getting better in the bottle. Look for a spicy nose, a supple, ripe palate and fine acidity in general and plenty of black cherry, plum and licorice flavours, a dash of mineral and fine balance. A great dinner wine but can easily double as an appetizer red. Excellent value.

 

We wrap up our selections with two terrific ports for cold days by the fire or for the perfect post dinner sip. Both are wood-aged ports that are ready to drink. The good news is they will keep for a week or two on the sideboard if you do not finish the bottle.

 

First up is the Fonseca Terra Prima Reserve Port N/ V, the only "Reserve" port in the market made from organically grown grapes and organic grape spirits. Expect a dry, spicy, tobacco, cedar nose with bits of menthol, earth, spirit, ash and licorice. The style is drier than most reserve wood ports with light tannins and some spirity mid-palate warmth. The palate is rich with coffee, tobacco, cedar, menthol, dried fig, black tea and smoky, raisin flavours. A bit rustic but with fine intensity and some light tannins. Serve this one fireside after dinner or wrap it up and give to anyone who enjoys a glass of port after dinner.

 

Port No. 2 is a delicious new "late bottled" offering. The Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005 is a winner. Look for fresh peppery licorice aromas flecked with spicy, tobacco, black tea, prune and plum notes. The palate is rich, full and warm with plenty of sugar and acid. Chocolate, licorice and peppery, orange, plum jam dominate the palate with bits of ginger and black tea flavours. It has some structure to age, but why bother? This is really showing well now. An excellent example of LBV in a slightly drier style. Bravo.

 


 

Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (Dégorgment 2009) N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $61

UPC: 03037900002787

Score: 92/100

Remarks: An impressive fresh mouth-filling sparkler that over-delivers for the price.

 

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2008, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California

Price: $35

UPC: 742651107195

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Juicy, elegant, ripe and best of all fresh.

 

Saumur Lieu-dit Les Pouches 2009, Loire Valley, France

Price: $18

UPC: 00185961000075 Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fresh delicate, somewhat soft palate with green apple, honey, mineral flavours.

 

Ogier Cotes du Rhone Heritages 2007, Rhone Valley, France Price: $18

UPC: 00714320135006

Score: 87/100

Remarks: From a fine year in the Rhone this offers continued solid value.

 

Fonseca Terra Prima Reserve Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal Price: $32

UPC: 005013521101908

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Terra Prima is made from organically grown grapes and organic grape spirits.

 

Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $26

UPC: 05010867200159 Score: 91/100

Remarks: Chocolate, prune, licorice, pepper, orange, plum jam and ginger flavours.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.