Have You Ever Judged A Wine By Its Label

If the answer seems obvious, the reaction of wine buyers, or book buyers for that matter, is not as clear-cut.

Even if a label can't make a wine taste better, it can help you remember a wine experience or better yet, aid your failing memory the next time you go shopping for your favourite bottle.

Let's face it, a yellow label or a leaping lizard or a bucolic vineyard scene is easier to remember than a name such as Weingut Zilliken Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese.

Whether it's simply a colour, or a piece of art, visual stimuli appear to be much more appealing than words to wine buyers. Labels are the new canvas of both the well-known and as-yet-undiscovered artist, and judging by the number of designs out there, thousands of bottles are sold on the strength of looks each day.

If label art is growing, it's hardly new. Wineries have reached out to the art world for label ideas since 1924, when Bordeaux's Chateau Mouton Rothschild decorated its first label. In 1945, the Baron Philippe de Rothschild commemorated the end of the Second World War with a special "V" for victory 1945 label and went on to commission a new label each year from many world-renowned artists. Early pioneers of New World Artist Series labels included Leeuwin Estate of Western Australia and Kenwood Winery in Sonoma County.

In British Columbia, Calona Vineyards has been issuing colourful labels since 1987 when the winery began working with local artist Rob Dunfield. In 1995, the idea blossomed into the Artist Series and has grown to encompass the works of artists from across the country.

Each year the winery puts out a call for art and a new piece is added to the collection. The 2003 Artist Series whites have just been released in B.C., joining reds from '02 and '01 vintages in the marketplace. Here's a look at the best of the bunch from winemaker Howard Soon and his assistants Stephanie Leinemann and Kelly Moss and their introductory series to B.C. wine.

The Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2003 has a bright open, ripe apple, steely mineral, pear nose with a touch of melon. On the palate it is round and soft with a touch of residual sugar. Apple skin, mineral, peach and butter flavours dominate what is a fresh, easy-drinking style. Well done.

Spicy sausage meat and citrus rind aromas mark the nose of the Gewurztraminer Artist Series Reserve 2003 along with green apple and lychee streaks. The entry is fresh, the textures round, the fruit ripe and the acidity perfect. Look for juicy apple, buttery peach/melon flavours with a spicy, sausage finish. Drink while it's young and fresh.

Next up is the unusual, and unique to Calona Vineyards, Sovereign Opal Artist Series Reserve 2003. The sovereign opal grape (which is an odd cross between marechal foch and golden muscat cross) was developed as a new wine grape at Agriculture Canada's Summerland Research Station. The objective was to breed a grape that would successfully grow (and ripen) in the Okanagan Valley.

Look for a typically intense (muscat) floral nose streaked with mint that is somewhat reminiscent of gewurztraminer. The nose is fat and round, reflecting the warm vintage; the entry is sweet with spicy, baked apple, peach skin and lychee flavours. Definitely B.C. This will be a fun summer sipper on the patio.

The Artist Series reds take us back to a pair of vintages beginning with the Merlot Artist Series Reserve 2002. Like most cool-climate merlot, it leads with spicy, smoky, leafy dill aromas mixed with peppery, roasted plum notes. The entry is dry and slightly tannic with more peppery, smoky, tobacco and cherry flavours; the finish is dry and lean with some gritty tannins. A solid effort and a big improvement over 2001. Serve this with barbecued flank steak.

The Syrah Artist Series Reserve 2001 has improved with age in the bottle. Look for a strong smoky, vanilla, dill, leafy, nose with black pepper and summer sausage notes in the background. The entry is smooth and round with smoky, spicy vanilla, black cherry and roasted pepper flavours. The finish is soft and round with a touch of sweetness that adds to its commercial appeal.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Cabernet Franc Artist Series 2002. Notoriously leafy and vegetal, this '02 franc has some leafy, tobacco notes on the nose but mixed with spicy, cranberry aromas and smoky vanilla notes. Soft, dry and round on entry, it has more spicy, smoky vanilla oak flavours with resiny, black cherry fruit and a streak of cigar in the finish. A solid effort for the price.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Calona Vineyards: The Artist Series

Wine: Pinot Gris Reserve 2003 Okanagan Valley
Price: $13.49
UPC: 058976340231
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Peach, mineral, fresh easy-drinking style.

Wine: Gewurztraminer Reserve 2003 Okanagan Valley
Price: $13.99
UPC: 058976350070
Score: 15/20
Comments: Juicy apple, peach/melon spicy fruit.

Wine: Sovereign Opal Reserve 2003 Okanagan Valley
Price: $12.49
UPC: 058976350049
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Spicy, baked apple, peach skin and lychee flavours.

Wine: Merlot Reserve 2003 Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.49**
UPC: 058976320202
Score: 14/20
Comments: Peppery, smoky, tobacco and cherry flavours.

Wine: Syrah Reserve 2001 Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.49
UPC: 058976290727
Score: 14/20
Comments: Soft sweet, introductory style syrah with peppery fruit.

Wine: Cabernet Franc 2002 Okanagan Valley
Price: $13.49*
UPC: 058976330218
Score: 14/20
Comments: Soft, black cherry fruit with a streak of tobacco leaf.