Hamburger Reds

The hamburger/spaghetti red that was once the mainstay of wine stores has all but vacated the premises. In truth I don't get as many requests for wine under $10 as I once did, mostly because consumers have given up on finding anything worth drinking for that price and, frankly, they may be on to something.

This week I searched the B.C. Liquor Distribution Branch on-line price list and noted that 281 wines appeared in a search for wine under $10. Before you get your hopes up, much of what is available is bulk juice shipped into Canada in rubber liners below the waterline of seagoing freighters that is then bottled and sold by some of our largest producers.

It's not a very attractive end of the Canadian wine business, but I suspect it's lucrative; otherwise, domestic producers making a small fortune selling premium Canadian wine direct wouldn't bother to risk their new-fashioned reputations as quality producers by selling bulk imported wine. Especially given the use of technically legal, but morally bankrupt, label nomenclature such as "Cellared in Canada" or "Product of Canada," that make the wine sound as if it was grown, crushed and otherwise made in a small boutique Canadian winery.

We get that it's "manufactured" in Canada, we just don't understand why we can't be clear about the origin of the ingredients. We have been promised truth in labelling for years, but it's clear when it comes to the "Cellared in Canada" and products of that ilk that the people who produce it think as Jack Nicholson did in the movie A Few Good Men, namely that "we can't handle the truth." But I digress.

Taxes, fuel surcharges, inflation -- well, take your pick -- any or all are quickly killing the simple red wine under $10 and probably $11 and $12, too. Just for fun I went looking for some drinkable reds under $10 and found a few. I present them today for your weekend amusement.

My criteria for selection went something like this: First, they had to be red; second, no odd rubbery or strong sulphur odours; third, they need to be drinkable ("no sharp edges," as my neighbours would say); and, fourth, a short clean aftertaste is preferable to a long, hot cooked finish. The total bill for all six wines with taxes and bottle deposit set back my expense account $58.94 or just over $9.82 a bottle. I impressed myself with what I managed to buy for the money, but the question remains: Is any of it worth drinking? Here's what I found:

Finca Los Primos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is the perfect cheap red. Soft, round and fresh on the palate, it offers up smoky, tobacco, peppery, black olive, cassis flavours with just a touch of earth. The gulp-able red offers true value for money.

Still in Argentina, a perennial low-cost favourite is the Finca Flichman Malbec Oak Aged 2007. The latest version is perhaps the best of recent vintages. Look for plenty of soft, smooth-edged, peppery fruit in this smoky, earthy red striped with savoury licorice bits. This is good value red wine you can serve liberally around the barbecue or with the cliché trio: pizza, chicken and spaghetti.

Floral, meaty, spicy, black raspberry barnyard notes are all the rage in Spanish wine, and you will find all that and more in the Marques de Rojas Garnacha 2006. On the palate, it has a certain lushness with black raspberry jam and peppery, plum, spicy mineral flavours. Fresh finish, but good fruit core. Give it a bit of air time to fully bring out the fruit on the nose. Love the value here.

Caminos de Terra Andina Cabernet-Merlot 2007 is an introductory-style Chilean red from the Maipo Valley. Look for a sappy leafy nose with bits of mint, cedar bough and tobacco. Nevertheless, it is surprisingly round and supple in the mouth with more persistent dried herbs and cran/cherry fruit flavours spiked with cedar and tobacco. It is similar to previous editions, offering solid value, if you don't mind the herbaceous style.

Another Argentine red makes our list, prompting the question: Why do people say Chile is the home of cheap red wine? The Trapiche Astica Merlot Malbec 2006 has a peppery sausage nose with tobacco, floral, cherry, resin aromas. Soft, round, supple, easy style with cherry, tobacco, plum, spicy game flavours. It finishes a bit tart, but with a good core of fruit it works with barbecue.

I'm throwing in the Thirsty Lizard Shiraz 2005, although strictly speaking its $14 one-litre package nets out at $10.50 per 750-mL bottle, but this wine surprises for the price. Ripe round and spicy on the palate with dark red fruit and chocolate notes and not too much acidity poking through at the end. The finish is warm and spicy with some decent density and weight. A great value barbecue red in an unbreakable box. By the way, to keep this box fresh, just squeeze the excess air out of the box and put the screwcap back on and it will keep for days in the refrigerator.

Price: $9.96

UPC: 07790703185779

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Peppery, earthy, black olive, cassis flavours.

FINCA FLICHMAN MALBEC OAK AGED 2007, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $9.99

UPC: 07790470080222

Score: 86/100

Remarks: The best in recent years from Flichman.

MARQUES DE ROJAS GARNACHA 2006, ALMANSA, CASTILLA-LA MANCHA, SPAIN

Price: $9.99

UPC: 08414837010545

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Fresh finish with a fine fruit core. Solid value.

CAMINOS DE TERRA ANDINA CABERNET-MERLOT 2007, VALLE DEL MAIPO, CHILE

Price: $9.50

UPC: 00830212000075

Score: 85/100

Remarks: Big sappy, leafy nose with bits of mint cedar bough and tobacco.

TRAPICHE ASTICA MERLOT MALBEC 2006, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $9

UPC: 07790240026344

Score: 85/100

Remarks: Supple, easy-drinking style with plummy, spicy game flavours.

THIRSTY LIZARD SHIRAZ 2005, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA

Price: $14 ($10.50 per 750 mL)

UPC: 09329694110026

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Fine value barbecue red in an unbreakable box.