Guess Who's Coming For Dinner

The idea of a multi-course (and often multi-wines-per-course) dinner has been enthusiastically embraced by consumers in search of a different kind of dining experience. Over the years I've learned that not all winemaker dinners are created equal. That brings me today's topic: How do you spot the good ones? Normally, all the information you need to evaluate a dinner is on the invitation -- or conspicuous by its absence. The most important ingredient is the wine. That might sound obvious, but you would be surprised how often a winery, its agent and/or the restaurant fails to assemble the correct wines to match the menu and the market. If a winery doesn't bring one of its flagship wines to a Vancouver dinner, it's probably not a good sign. If the producer needs to hammer home its bread-and-butter brands, it should do so at the reception or sprinkle them among the courses -- but it must go easy. At these events a winery should be selling its name, not individual labels. The evening's final wine must be a blockbuster, perhaps an older red served with the cheese and one capable of leaving an impression with the audience that's both memorable and favourable. As for the winemaker, if he or she is not an entertaining speaker, organizers may want to think about bringing in somebody else to talk about what's being poured. In my experience, stories about the winery's pet dog survive in consumers' minds long after any discussion of malolactic fermentation or whole-cluster pressing. With those ideas in mind, you may want to think about attending the upcoming vintner's dinner at Showcase Restaurant (in the Delta Pinnacle Hotel) on Nov. 2, featuring the wines of Washington State's Chateau Ste. Michelle (or CSM) and its sister winery, Columbia Crest. There'll be two experts from the winery on hand: CSM's Ron Bunnell, and Marcus Notaro from Columbia Crest. Both know their products inside-out. The reception wine is Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut -- a crisp, fruity sparkler that is easily one of the best bubbly values made in the Northwest. It will be accompanied by three appealing appetizers: honey-glazed quail with minted vegetables, fresh shucked oysters with champagne foam, and an avocado tart with creme fraiche. For dinner, hotel executive chef Bruce Knapik begins by offering a mushroom, artichoke and fennel tian paired with Chateau Ste. Michelle's 1999 Indian Wells Chardonnay and Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates Chardonnay. At $23, you can't go wrong with the "Grand Estates" label, a revision of the former "Estate" chardonnay. Look for full-blown spicy, buttery, vanilla aromas, and flavours streaked with toasted oak. It's classic American chardonnay. The Indian Wells chardonnay is much more refined, with its creamy vanilla palate and firm apple/mineral flavours. Unfortunately it's not for sale at present in B.C., so the dinner is a rare opportunity to try it. Next course will be an olive-oil-braised diver scallop paired with the Horse Heaven Sauvignon Blanc. The sauvignon bursts with flavours and aromas of ripe grapefruit, melons and gooseberries. It should be a perfect match for the scallop. A similar-styled wine, which is also available in B.C. liquor stores, is the Columbia Crest 1998 Semillon-Chardonnay. Its toasted oak, melon, citrus and pea-pod flavours make it an ideal choice to accompany local shellfish. The "Fraser Valley Duck Done Four Ways" will be served with three flagship reds from the fabulous 1998 vintage: CSM Canoe Ridge Cabernet and Columbia Crest's reserve merlot and reserve syrah. Each is worth buying, but they're only available at Mark Anthony Wine Marts (Oak and King Edward, in Vancouver; 15220 North Bluff in White Rock; and on Vancouver Island at 2560 Sinclair Road in Saanich). If you don't make it to the dinner, look for the Chateau Ste. Michelle 1996 Merlot and '97 Cabernet Sauvignon in government wine stores. The merlot is steeped in smoky vanilla and coffee aromas, with round, mature blackberry and black cherry fruit flavours. The cabernet is spicier, with flavours of pepper, blackberry jam and green olives. The tannins are supple. Dessert looks delicious: milk chocolate creme brulee matched with CSM 1998 Late Harvest Semillon. It's wonderfully tropical and fruit scented, with honey, apricot and spice aromas, and ripe dried-fig flavours. It's both impressive and memorable, but like the three flagship reds, only available at Mark Anthony stores. Tickets for the dinner are $125 (taxes and gratuities included). For more information, contact the Show Case Restaurant at 604-639-4040, ext. 4535. Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM. CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE AND COLUMBIA CREST, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON Wine: Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Mosaic Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 398198 Score: 15/20 Comments: Crisp, fruity, affordable. Wine: Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates Chardonnay Price: $22.95 Stock No.: 366542 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Big, bold and American. Wine: Chateau Ste. Michelle 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Price: $27.95 Stock No.: 524413 Score: 16/20 Comments: Gooseberry, grapefruit and melons. Wine: Columbia Crest 1998 Semillon-Chardonnay Price: $11.95 Stock No.: 292698 Score: 14/20 Comments: Citrus/floral fruit. Wine: Chateau Ste. Michelle 1996 Merlot Price: $30.95 Stock No.: 389650 Score: 17/20 Comments: Mature, mellow, ready to drink. Wine: Chateau Ste. Michelle 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Price: $25.95 Stock No.: 232793 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Spicy, bold-flavoured.