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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

It may sound odd but the notion of barbecue wines didn't really exist a generation ago.

We may have been grilling in the backyard but drinking wine with whatever was being cooked wasn't on. If there was any drinking at all, most of it was beer, and it was done during the grilling. As for the grilling it was mostly rudimentary with a menu led by hot dogs or hamburgers.

 

The list of food that qualifies today for the barbecue appears endless, as are pairings for hot-off-the-grill hamburgers, chicken, steaks, lamb chops, ribs, pizza and any number of fish. There is no need to confine your choices to red wine, when a white, rose or sparkling will do better and I'm betting a tasty craft beer would be equally welcomed by your guests. In short, there are no rules.

 

As we head into the first long weekend of the season, where eating outdoors may be a reality, remember the first duty of any barbecue wine is to be affordable. This will complement the casual nature of most barbecues and allow the host plenty of flexibility when it comes to stocking enough wine to deal with guest lists that frequently expand at the last minute.

 

If there are no rules there a few guidelines. Red wines should be fruity enough to breakdown the spice and heat from sauces and seasonings yet they should be full-bodied enough and flavourful to withstand the multitude of flavours and strong smoky tastes associated with most barbecue. Red wine with fish has become an acceptable match too but it requires a bit more attention to detail. It is the acidity in red wine that makes the match work but only if the fish is not too oily. Lighter tannins and high fruit content work best here.

 

Your white wine choices should be adventurous. It's almost summer, the temperature is rising and it's a good time to explore the lighter, fresher side of the wine business. Think of the wines one might sip if you were lucky enough to be sitting on a piazza in Rome or Florence, or in the countryside in Portugal or Spain. They are usually chosen to cool you and or brighten the food.

 

We share wines today that represent a major category you can enjoy at barbecues. We begin with rosé; perhaps the ultimate barbecue wine, it pairs well with so many dishes save for the biggest grilled meats. But from chicken to fish to grilled pizza and everything in between, it's a winner. Our pick is Haywire Gamay Noir Rosé at $20, from Summerland in the Okanagan Valley (winery direct). Crisp and juicy, it calls out for crab or my favourite summer dish: a watermelon salad.

 

White wine doesn't need to be chardonnay or even sauvignon blanc to be fun. The warm weather let us stretch out and try something new, refreshing bright and versatile. Our pick is Gazela Vinho Verde, $11, from Portugal, refreshing at nine-per-cent alcohol with a pinch of CO2 to liven it on the palate. Think alfresco dining.

 

Malbec is the signature soft, black wine of Argentina. It's slightly wild, fruity flavours are best tamed by beef steak but ribs or hamburgers will do. Our pick is The Show Malbec, $19, from Mendoza. Dry savoury soft and textured.

 

Pinot Noir, as in soft, fruity New World types are your best bets with barbecue chicken or salmon dishes or even spicy sushi. Our pick is a bargain Chilean label Santa Carolina Reserva Pinot Noir, $14, from Maule, offering earthy, ripe raspberry/red fruit aromas and flavours.

 

Merlot continues to take a bad rap but it is round, soft and fruity or as Jancis Robinson has said, "it's cabernet without the pain." It works for chicken or pork and even with simple fish dishes. Our pick is The Velvet Devil Merlot at $18.50, from Columbia Valley Washington.

 

Siraz is beginning to pull up its socks in Australia and return to being a favourite summer red. Our pick, Yalumba Organic Shiraz, $17, comes with great purity of fruit and juicy acidity perfect for grilled meats. All we need is some sunshine.

 


Moselland Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett 2012, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price $15 | Score 86/100

UPC: 084756123169

Fresh green apple-skin, slate with candied apple highlights. The attack is round and off-dry but with fine acidity and fresh, mineral, lime, orange and apple flavours. Certainly solid for the price and versatile with food.

 

La Jara Prosecco Frizzante Organic 2013, Treviso, Verona, Veneto, Italy

Price $20 | Score 87/100

UPC: 803396832070

Everyone is drinking prosecco, seemingly hooked on its creamy, fresh, fruity palate. This is on the dry side with pear, light honey, anise, green apple, herb and nut flavours. Good intensity and balance in a non-sweet, more food-friendly style. Well made. Closed under cork but with it comes with a nifty ceramic closer attached for use after opening.

 

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2011, Burgundy, France

Price $40 | Score 89/100

UPC: 089744423665

Serious nutty, baked green apple-skin, seashell and lemon aromas. Dry, fresh, round and elegant but juicy with lemon, light lees, seaweed and grassy flavours. Finish is quite herbal with a brisk acidity to help this flesh out over the next few years. Food-friendly.

 

Domaine de L'Olivette Red 2012, Corbières, Languedoc, France

Price $16 | Score 87/100

UPC: 3356201014009

Peppery, black olive, black licorice and poultry spice with bits of tobacco, black cherry and meat aromas. Fresh, round, juicy palate in a light but balanced manner. Black cherry, blackberry, olive, peppery, coffee, resin and licorice flavours. A solid, elegant, lighter style red for current consumption. A barbecue red for wine lovers.

 

Monte del Frá Bardolino 2012, Verona, Veneto, Italy

Price $17 | Score 87/100

UPC: 838547000180

Light, open air-fresh with savoury, cedar, strawberry aromas and flavours. This is a summer style, picnic wine when compared with most modern reds. Try it with spaghetti olio or even tuna-based sushi rolls. It has just enough ripeness to carry even spicy rolls. Serve whenever you need something light and refreshing.

 

Full Circle Red Blend Organic 2012, Mendocino County - Lake County, California, United States

Price $18 | Score 86/100

UPC: 082896001149

Soft, round, fresh, somewhat sweet entry with light chalky tannins. The flavours are a mix of savoury, poultry spice, candied orange peel, cherry jam, licorice, chocolate flavours. A friendly style red that will work with a range of grilled foods from the barbecue.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.